RMweb Premium PMP Posted February 5, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2019 Going back to the 70’s/80’s these are going through the works at the moment. Four original Airfix E140 B set coaches. Overall a reasonable starting point, and for their day, high quality RTR. These will have revised chassis’ and the bodies detailed so they don’t stand out against contemporary RTR or kit built coaches. These have been ‘in stock’ for about 30 years! And out of use for about twenty.... 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PMP Posted February 5, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2019 1 hour ago, Jesse Sim said: how do you go about getting scanned? Alan at Modelu does it at shows, or sometimes can do singles with sufficient lead time. https://www.modelu3d.co.uk/ worth looking into next time you’re over Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2750Papyrus Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 2 hours ago, Tony Wright said: This do? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted February 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2019 46 minutes ago, PMP said: Going back to the 70’s/80’s these are going through the works at the moment. Four original Airfix E140 B set coaches. Overall a reasonable starting point, and for their day, high quality RTR. These will have revised chassis’ and the bodies detailed so they don’t stand out against contemporary RTR or kit built coaches. These have been ‘in stock’ for about 30 years! And out of use for about twenty.... Snap: This one's had the erroneous window filled in, a repaint, laser-glaze windows, reworked underframe detail and new headstocks. I was told the underframe detail is incorrect in some respects but I'm happy enough with it as an impressionistic approach which allows the coach to sit with more detailed vehicles. Al 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Harlequin Posted February 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2019 Hello Tony, Can I suggest slightly altering the way your new avatar is cropped so that the smokebox door is fully visible and your 4mm alter-ego is larger and off-centre. (I've also boosted the contrast a little bit.) If you like my arty-farty suggestion then please use the square image on the right and let the forum crop it into a circle. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators AY Mod Posted February 5, 2019 Moderators Share Posted February 5, 2019 7 minutes ago, Harlequin said: If you like my arty-farty suggestion then please use the square image on the right and let the forum crop it into a circle. He has staff for that sort of thing. I've adjusted it. 2 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Harlequin Posted February 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2019 Proper Job! (I hope the boss likes it!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted February 5, 2019 Author Share Posted February 5, 2019 2 hours ago, AY Mod said: I shall let you be the judge! Perfect! Or, because it's me, as 'perfect' as anyone is going to get. Many thanks. 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted February 5, 2019 Author Share Posted February 5, 2019 2 hours ago, Jesse Sim said: Wow, that figure turned out really well Tony, I can actually hear you muttering something about my tattoos again! Hahaha how do you go about getting scanned? It's Alan Buttler of ModelU who does the scanning, Jesse. Two years ago he was at the Stevenage Show and I was alongside him. I was thus scanned! He'll probably be at Warley. Regards, Tony. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Clem Posted February 5, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted February 5, 2019 I've been going through my wagon kit box(es) since the cold weather had prevented me from some of the spray painting I need to do. Amongst the kits built recently was this D&S ex-GC Double bolster wagon. I started it Sunday morning but had more difficulty with getting it square through all planes than any kit I've done for a very long time. The reason for this kit being more difficult for me was the very shallow sides and protrusions from the sides which made it difficult to get a square against it. I've also got other square wooden jigs but they didn't really help in this case either. I must have soldered sides and ends together only to desolder them as they were a touch out of square in one of the planes a number of times until it was starting to really get on my nerves. Bear with me here.... Everyday I walk two and a half miles. I've been doing it since I had a heart attack almost 13 years ago. I've lost count of the number of times I've set off on my daily walk pondering the latest very difficult model railway problem that was halting progress only for me to come up with a solution on my daily walk. Within the first 5 minutes of the walk I'd sorted this one out too. I got back and had the wagon up and running perfectly square within an hour of getting back. The lightbulb solution was to hold each side and end, upside down on a very flat squared cutting mat using Bluetac, checking the vertical and horizontal planes and making slight adjustments until I was happy. I then tacked it up with solder with the wheels in place. Perfect first time... Job done.... You don't have to tell me. I know. I should just cut the cackle and put the picture up. Here it is.. 19 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buhar Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 Jesse, you do realise you'll have to paint your tattoos and the peak of the backwards baseball cap may be too thin to print. And then you'll still be an anachronism on Brighton Jct. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted February 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2019 15 minutes ago, Buhar said: Jesse, you do realise you'll have to paint your tattoos and the peak of the backwards baseball cap may be too thin to print. And then you'll still be an anachronism on Brighton Jct. Unless he portrays himself as a dustman. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwordsmith Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 4 hours ago, St Enodoc said: "Proper model shops". I was lucky over the years. Blunt's in Mill Hill to start me off; Harburn Hobbies in Edinburgh; Dick Buckley's at Wakefield wasn't too far from Leeds; Kemp Models in Brighton (Hove, actually); the Train Shop at Lichfield wasn't too far from Polesworth; Scale Rail in Eastbourne (then after it moved the Hobby Box at Uckfield); then I moved overseas - nothing in Singapore but there are a couple in Sydney. My last experience of a proper model shop was South Eastern Models at Felbridge, opened in 1976 by the wonderful Dave Ellis on a Saturday you’d ofte; find a sh full of customers happily comparing notes, and even helping out behind the till when it got busy in in the early nineties he got offered the opportunity to buy Bob Wills’ white metal business which he relaunched as South Eastern Finecast ive not seen him In a decade, but he is a great guy 4 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Smeeton Posted February 5, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2019 4 hours ago, Jesse Sim said: Wow, that figure turned out really well Tony, I can actually hear you muttering something about my tattoos again! Hahaha how do you go about getting scanned? Will you be able to stand still for long enough, Jesse? Regards Ian 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 In the days of my childhood I remember Puffers of Kenton being an excellent model shop. The ground floor level being devoted to RTR, plastic kits and various accessories while the basement was full of locomotive kits. I spent many a happy weekend in that shop. After Kenton closed I found the Harrow model shop which was almost as good but sadly that closed as well. Following on from the discussion on the old PC coaches, I thought I'd share what dropped through the letter box this morning. These are Worsley Works scratch aids for some Gresley 51' non-corridor stock. Betweeen the 2mm Association, Ultima Models and my 3D printer, I'm sure I can source the missing bits and pieces. These will be my first attempt at etched coaches and as such I've been reading the Comet booklet on etched coach building. However, I would appreciate some advice from those who have experience building etched coaches. The scratch aid seems to provide for building the body and underframe as separate components. I'm concerned that as the etch is only 0.25mm (10 thou) thick, there will not be sufficient strength in the sides if I build the body as a separate part. On the other hand, building the body and underframe as a single unit presents the problem of how to secure the roof. Any help would be most gratefully received. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 42 minutes ago, Ian Smeeton said: Will you be able to stand still for long enough, Jesse? Regards Ian I'm more interested in how Jesse plans to paint representations of his tattoos on his miniature... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 Quote I'm concerned that as the etch is only 0.25mm (10 thou) thick, there will not be sufficient strength in the sides if I build the body as a separate part. Steve, I find that if you use a brass roof, so you end up with 5 sides of a box, the resultant structure is very rigid. With non-corridor vehicles you also have the option of making some of the partitions out of brass to add strength if necessary. I'd do that on the brake vehicle as a matter of course where the sides step in. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted February 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2019 Model railway shops - Then - Eames almost on the doorstep of Reading station so readily accessible plus a couple of excellent pubs nearby; all long gone alas. All ideally situated for those of us working just up the road in Western Tower (it's gone too). Now - well Alton Model Centre is pretty good and Paul really does sell kits, not just wagon etc kits but kits containing pieces of metal to build into locos. Nice and handy for me as it's only 27 miles away by road. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted February 5, 2019 Author Share Posted February 5, 2019 23 minutes ago, Atso said: In the days of my childhood I remember Puffers of Kenton being an excellent model shop. The ground floor level being devoted to RTR, plastic kits and various accessories while the basement was full of locomotive kits. I spent many a happy weekend in that shop. After Kenton closed I found the Harrow model shop which was almost as good but sadly that closed as well. Following on from the discussion on the old PC coaches, I thought I'd share what dropped through the letter box this morning. These are Worsley Works scratch aids for some Gresley 51' non-corridor stock. Betweeen the 2mm Association, Ultima Models and my 3D printer, I'm sure I can source the missing bits and pieces. These will be my first attempt at etched coaches and as such I've been reading the Comet booklet on etched coach building. However, I would appreciate some advice from those who have experience building etched coaches. The scratch aid seems to provide for building the body and underframe as separate components. I'm concerned that as the etch is only 0.25mm (10 thou) thick, there will not be sufficient strength in the sides if I build the body as a separate part. On the other hand, building the body and underframe as a single unit presents the problem of how to secure the roof. Any help would be most gratefully received. Steve, For most of my coach constructions, I make the bodysides, ends and roof as one unit. The underframe is then fixed to that 'box' by screws/nuts/bolts. The roof then acts as a support for the thin sides. The following shots show how this is arranged. The roof on this one is yet to be attached. Hope this helps.................. Whatever you do, do not seal the coach. You'll always need to get into the interior at some point in the future. Regards, Tony. 1 1 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 9 minutes ago, jwealleans said: Steve, I find that if you use a brass roof, so you end up with 5 sides of a box, the resultant structure is very rigid. With non-corridor vehicles you also have the option of making some of the partitions out of brass to add strength if necessary. I'd do that on the brake vehicle as a matter of course where the sides step in. Thanks Jonathan. I was thinking of 3D printing the roof to both keep the weight down and save me having to fabricate rain strips, etc. I wonder if using impact adhesive to glue the roof to the body will still provide sufficient strength. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 1 minute ago, Tony Wright said: Steve, For most of my coach constructions, I make the bodysides, ends and roof as one unit. The underframe is then fixed to that 'box' by screws/nuts/bolts. The roof then acts as a support for the thin sides. The following shots show how this is arranged. The roof on this one is yet to be attached. Hope this helps.................. Whatever you do, do not seal the coach. You'll always need to get into the interior at some point in the future. Regards, Tony. Thank you Tony, those photographs are really helpful. Interesting to see the strengthening pieces along the length of the body, I'll have to see about fashioning something similar out of scrap etch. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted February 5, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2019 I may be thick, but no matter what I do, the thread does not appear, unless I pick it up be seeing a post from someone else as having just visited. Can Andy help? Thanks Tim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Y Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 5 minutes ago, CF MRC said: Can Andy help? Until I can get one of the tools working which absolutely replicates what you see it's difficult to say Tim. As a temporary workaround it may be worth bookmarking the topic in your browser as one of your important points of call. I'll put it on ze list. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted February 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2019 37 minutes ago, Tony Wright said: Steve, For most of my coach constructions, I make the bodysides, ends and roof as one unit. The underframe is then fixed to that 'box' by screws/nuts/bolts. The roof then acts as a support for the thin sides. The following shots show how this is arranged. The roof on this one is yet to be attached. Hope this helps.................. Whatever you do, do not seal the coach. You'll always need to get into the interior at some point in the future. Regards, Tony. This is the method suggested by Comet when building their kits, and I am following it with my current build of a Collet non gangwayed third, the first such kit I have built for many years. It seems counter intuitive to me, though; for strength a similar box unit can be made with the floor, sides, and ends, and the interior details added through the top, with the roof being the very last item. But Tony is right; you are always going to want to get inside the coach for some reason, perhaps to deal with a passenger that's come unstuck (happens a lot on late night trains), and this method, using nut and bolt attachment at the ends, means that this can be done at any time. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 The advantage of doing it this way is that it's much easier to hide the join at solebar level than cantrail. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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