Sandy's Workbench 7mm Scale

[kada33]

No, never found that. The only time I had a problem with paint not 'going off' was when I used Turpentine Substitute instead of white spirit!!! Stupid I know.

I use a warm hair dryer on the paint after I have sprayed it. It seems to heat the top surface of the paint slightly and cause it to 'flow' into a nice smooth surface before drying completely. Just make sure you don't blow dust onto the model either from the hair dryer, if you have not used it for some time, or any dust lying on your bench!!

 

Regards

Sandy

Thanks for the reply Sandy, can I ask which Clarke compressor you use, I have an old one but you can't adjust the pressure on it, yours sounds a much better choice.

 

Dave

[Barnaby]

Dave you need something like this.

http://www.killerinktattoo.co.uk/regulator-filter-with-pressure-gauge?utm_source=google_shopping&139=21&gclid=CLPFm4-4ysECFdTLtAodeF8AHw

I'm sure if you check with Clarke's or an air-brush manufacturer they will offer you something.  You may need some adapter couplings to mate the threads up.

 

 

Best

[Sandy Harper]

Thanks for the reply Sandy, can I ask which Clarke compressor you use, I have an old one but you can't adjust the pressure on it, yours sounds a much better choice.

 

Dave

Dave, have a look at post 419 the photo shows it sitting on the floor. it is a Clark Wiz, dirt cheap but does the job.

 

REgards

Sandy

[kada33]

Dave, have a look at post 419 the photo shows it sitting on the floor. it is a Clark Wiz, dirt cheap but does the job.

 

REgards

Sandy

Thanks Sandy, I had seen the post but couldn't make out the model. I'll check out to see if it's still available.

Dave

[kada33]

Thanks Sandy, I had seen the post but couldn't make out the model. I'll check out to see if it's still available.

Dave

Sandy

 

Having found that Machine Mart sell this model there is no mention of pressure control. Didn't you say you were able to spray at 10psi? This model also appears not to have a water trap, is that a problem?

 

Dave

[N15class]

Sandy

 

Having found that Machine Mart sell this model there is no mention of pressure control. Didn't you say you were able to spray at 10psi? This model also appears not to have a water trap, is that a problem?

 

Dave

Water traps and or combined pressure reducers/water traps can be bought and retro fitted.

[Sandy Harper]

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/wiz-mini-air-compressor

 

This advert shows the pressure dial and control knob.

 

Sandy

[Sandy Harper]

Having been somewhat distracted by the finishing of a couple of other models I have at last managed to return to the '483' project.

 

When I last posted I had put the main loco chassis together. Since then the brake gear has been added, springing of the front drivers, the fitting of the motor gearbox and the bogie.

 

The following photographs illustrate the progress so far.

 

 

This shows the brakes, hangers and pull rods attached to the chassis.

 

This photo shows how I have sprung the front drivers. The bearing sits normally at the top of the bearing hole with the sprung wire pushing it down into any track depressions. The spring wire also acts as a stop to prevent the bearing turning in the chassis.

 

Sorry, not a good photograph, but I think you can make out how much I had to remove from the length of the rear wheel bearings to get the motor/gearbox to fit between them. This was done by fitting the piercing saw between the frames and cutting through the bearing.

 

The bogie pivot provided is a length of brass rod with a thread cut at each end. a special washer is used on the bottom of the bogie and a length of spring fitted over the rod to provide downward force. This will be adjusted when the weighted body is in place.

 

Finally the footplate was tried for size. I think I may have a clearance problem with the wheels here??

 

Regards

SAndy

 

[garethashenden]

The footplate looks like it's designed to fit a longer wheelbase.

[Sandy Harper]

The footplate looks like it's designed to fit a longer wheelbase.

All very odd!!!

 

I have decided to put the footplate aside for the moment and get on with the cab unit. The sides and roof are a one piece, half etched unit, that needs to have the sides bent down at 90 degrees to the roof. However, there is also the matter of a very small radius between the top of the side and the roof and a very thin part above the side cutout that is going to give problems.

 

The front spectacle plate gives you the shape required and there is a handy little half etched line at the roof centreline to help you get it in the right place. The instructions say draw a pencil line down the inside centre of the roof , align the front spectacle plate with this, and start to tack solder the two together. Mmmmmmmm! Not keen on that idea. How am I going to ensure I have the spectacle plate vertical? how am I going to achieve the small radius bend along the join of the roof and side? Don't like that idea.

 

So I drew additional lines on the roof to show the limit of the front plate (it sits behind the front of the roof to give an overhang but is flush where it meets the side) and where the small radius bend should be.

 

Using a small 2mm drill I started bending one of the sides along the marked line. This was quite easy as the metal was half normal thickness anyway. I kept checking with the front plate to ensure it was in the right place. Once I was happy with that I moved on to the other side. Finally I shaped the roof around a length of dowel.

 

The final job was to tack solder the front to the roof and sides and, when satisfied with the fit, solder up the seams.

 

 

 

This shows the lines that I have drawn in to indicate the limit of the spectacle plate at the front, a centre line, and the two lines either side to indicate where the small radius bends have to go. You can see how close they are to the edge immediately above the cab cut out.

 

The cab front, with the small etched centre line indicator, and used as a template to get the shape correct

 

The finished cab. The radius of the narrow roof overhang, above the cut outs, were tricky to put in, as I suspected, and would probably have had difficulty achieving a neat bend if I had added the front of the cab first as suggested. As it was, it still took a bit of time, using bits of metal and clamps, to get it right.

 

Sandy

[Barnaby]

Interesting and intriguing at the same time with regard to the footplate issue.

What you going to do Sandy cut the existing plate to suit or make anew, surely the wheelbase is correct.

 

Beautiful etch-work soldering again, if only I had made the effort to shape & solder in my younger days I might be somewhere near yours now.

 

 

Great viewing your posts on your building.

 

Regards

. 

[Steve Sykes]

I may be missing the joke here, but once the footplate has had the bends put in at either end for the raised portion over the drivers, won't it line up properly?

[Barnaby]

Hello Steve I took it to mean that the wheels were too close together. On the footplate the inner edges of the wheels when looking front to back from either buffer are too close to the holes cut in the plate. looking towards either buffers there is a large gap at the buffer side of each wheel, see the wheel picture above. I think that's what is being referred to here.

 

If not I even more mystified.

 

I'll just wait for Sandy to sort it.

 

Regards

[Steve Sykes]

Hi Barnaby,

I understand that the cut-outs for the drivers appear too long at the outer ends with the footplate in the flat. My point was that once the footplate has been shaped to follow the top profile of the frames, the ends of the cut-outs will be closer to the wheels. As you say, I'm sure Sandy will sort it out.

Steve

[Barnaby]

Hi Steve, thanks for that I'm not to certain what you mean when you say "shaped up to follow the top profile" but then I don't do much brass etch kit work.

Also if the coupling rods mate over the side frame bearing holes then I would think it's more likely that the top plate is wrong somehow.

What do you think or shall we both wait to see what Sandy finds.

 

It's an interesting read though.

Regards

Edited December 7, 2014 by Barnaby

[Steve Sykes]

Hi Barnaby,

 

If you have a look at the prototype photo in post #414 on page 17 of the thread, it shows what I'm rabbiting on about. The section of the footplate between the drivers is raised to clear the coupling rods. When the curves at either end of the raised section are formed in the initially flat footplate etch, I suspect the length of the holes for the driving wheels will be nearer the mark. Or I could just be waffling on like a loon....

 

Steve

[Sandy Harper]

Hi Barnaby,

 

If you have a look at the prototype photo in post #414 on page 17 of the thread, it shows what I'm rabbiting on about. The section of the footplate between the drivers is raised to clear the coupling rods. When the curves at either end of the raised section are formed in the initially flat footplate etch, I suspect the length of the holes for the driving wheels will be nearer the mark. Or I could just be waffling on like a loon....

 

Steve

Hi Gents

I fitted the cab and front splashers last night and it now all appears to fit ok. I should never have doubted the drawing skills of John Maidment.

I'll take some photos later today and post to show the result.

Cheers

Sandy

[Barnaby]

Thanks for the explanation Steve, I need to pay more attention in class.

 

However I do think the splashers look strange in that "prototype" photo as they look unnecessarily tall, quite odd looking to my mind.

I suppose one mans "odd looking" is another mans "full of character".

 

Thanks gents.

 

Edit. this view of a similar loco seems every thing is in proportion.

Edited December 8, 2014 by Barnaby

[Sandy Harper]

 

 

[garethashenden]

So, what's the difference in the fitment of the footplate?

[Sandy Harper]

Nothing really. Once the bends are put in it all fits perfectly.

 

Sandy

[david.hill64]

Love the rivet detail on the running plate and splashers. Were they pre-etched or formed?

[Sandy Harper]

Hi David,

 

The rivet detail is half etched for you with small dimples on the under side of both the footplate and splasher tops. After cutting out from the etch, and cleaning up the edges, the next job is to punch them out with a rivet press.

Mine is the Metalsmith version where the punch and anvil can be changed, to suit the size of rivet you want, and the depth of the rivet set with an adjustable stop.

The etched dimples are usually to big for the point of the punch and, to ensure you get a straight line, you can either have the point of the punch hard up against the same side of the dimple each time or, use the adjustable fence on the Riveter to keep the line straight.

 

This is the Rivet Press. The adjustable Fence is on the left. The depth stop is on the top right. And the screw that holds the anvil in place is bottom right. The anvil pin is interchangable.

 

Here is the press in use on the footplate rivets and using the guide fence to keep the line straight

 

You can just see the etched dimples and the much smaller dimple left by the point of the anvil on the underside of the footplate and the splasher top.

 

Hope this explaines it.

Regards

Sandy

[david.hill64]

Hi David,

 

The rivet detail is half etched for you with small dimples on the under side of both the footplate and splasher tops. After cutting out from the etch, and cleaning up the edges, the next job is to punch them out with a rivet press.

Mine is the Metalsmith version where the punch and anvil can be changed, to suit the size of rivet you want, and the depth of the rivet set with an adjustable stop.

The etched dimples are usually to big for the point of the punch and, to ensure you get a straight line, you can either have the point of the punch hard up against the same side of the dimple each time or, use the adjustable fence on the Riveter to keep the line straight.

Thanks Sandy!

 

If I am deemed to have been a good boy this year, I believe that Santa will bring me the GW models version. I am using the LRM gravity rivetter, which isn't bad, but the presses seem to give a much sharper, better defined shape.

 

David

[EKR]

It's the anvil that makes the difference. Just that bit crisper.

 

Good luck with Santa.................wonder if he's got any rolling bars?