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Hi, while the photolink opens from my computer I cannot get it to work from the rm site I just get a blank page from smug. I wil give it to you by a pm. Regards.

Link worked for me. Super Photo. Not seen it before. Thanks very useful information.

 

Sandy

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Hi, while the photolink opens from my computer I cannot get it to work from the rm site I just get a blank page from smug. I wil give it to you by a pm. Regards.

If you copy/paste the link I think it will work for you.

John K

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Hi, Oban bogie, what a lovely  job you have done, from basket to nice model! You have probably seen this picture, but it does show the loco nicely and the forked top of the handbrake lever and several other bits are very clear.  The  steam  (or air) cylinder of the brake is the part below the footplate. This type of brake was very common on US 4-4-0s of the period.  I always enjoy your builds, regards. https://travelandmixpix.smugmug.com/Rail/Steam/Engines-Of-The-Caledonian/i-NFnvmGd/0/L/1187-L.jpg

It is certainly looking a lot better for the treatment. That rod and lever on the left side of the firebox is a puzzle. I doubt that it is a hand brake as it is long established practice for this to be on the tender. A question that may provoke further thought is where is the reversing lever? There has to be a connection somewhere between the cab and the motion, unless the Caledonian had a fetish for steam reverses, and even they usually have some level of mechanical coupling between the reverser and the cab control.

 

Jim

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Thanks Jim. I'm with you on the lever, part of the reversing mechanism. I have fitted a corresponding lever inside the cab.

 

I also fitted lamp irons to the front footplate and the rear of the tender, until I realised I was referring to the LMS photograph!!!

They have been removed again and one fitted at the top of the smoke box and one either side of the cab as per Caley practice. There was some discussion about fitting a Caley 'Route Indicator' but opinion is that only loco's, generally travelling south from Glasgow and Edinburgh, had them. These engines usually only had one route, to Oban!

Regards

Sandy

 

Wrong lamp irons!!!

post-7733-0-89642900-1438334218_thumb.jpg

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I have finished adding all the detail bits and now it needs a good wash and brush up before painting!

 

The 'onion' topped lubricators, above the cylinders, were modified from Laurie Griffin castings using some fine tube and wire, carefully bending the 'tail' of the original casting, and fitting into a hole drilled in the tube. They are quite distinctive and needed to be included.

 

Regards

Sandy

 

PS Many thanks to all of you who have been following this and for your helpful inputs, much appreciated.

 

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Excellent work, a marked improvement on your purchase.

 

I enjoy doing rebuilds as it seems to give me more satisfaction than a straight kit build.

 

I look forward to seeing it painted and the start of its brother.

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Hi Peter

I would never have purchased such models. They have been built by a friend who is an artist. He is more interested in colour and form than detail, which is why I end up with the job of making them into running models!! Every so often he decides that he wants to sell of a couple of models but they are not worth much in the way he leaves them, hence my involvement. Apart from that I get a lot of satisfaction from the rebuilds and knowing that they will end up being enjoyed by new owners.

 

Are you visiting Guildex when you come to the UK?

 

Regards

Sandy

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Hi Peter

I would never have purchased such models. They have been built by a friend who is an artist. He is more interested in colour and form than detail, which is why I end up with the job of making them into running models!! Every so often he decides that he wants to sell of a couple of models but they are not worth much in the way he leaves them, hence my involvement. Apart from that I get a lot of satisfaction from the rebuilds and knowing that they will end up being enjoyed by new owners.

 

Are you visiting Guildex when you come to the UK?

 

Regards

Sandy

Hi Sandy

Yes I will be I could not believe my luck with timing. I will be there on Sunday I would of liked two days but we get to the UK on the 2nd and need to go to Dorset and Cornwall first. Time soon disappears.

 

I must order my rail etc for pick up there.

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Oban Bogie now awaiting her turn or the paint shop.

post-7733-0-64798800-1438844145_thumb.jpg

 

In the meantime I have started on the Class '66'. When she went through the cellulous Thinners to remove the old paint job the coupling rod crank splashers, which had been made from plastic, disintegrated so I needed to make new ones.

 

I started of by roughly cutting the faces of the splashers to shape, soldering them all together, filing to shape and then separating them. The thin length of scrap will be used for the splasher tops.

 

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Centre line marking for the position of the splashers

 

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All four units soldered and cleaned up

 

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First one in position but not yet soldered up.

 

post-7733-0-47236600-1438844211_thumb.jpg

 

Regards

Sandy

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Had to have a jab in my eye yesterday morning and so had to spend the rest of the day inside as the brightness out side was uncomfortable. So, with my good eye, I got on with a bit of detailing on the Class 66. I fitted all the crank splashers along with the Westinghouse pump and associated pipes. The clack valves also had to be removed, the glue cleaned off, and re-soldered in position. A bit of tidying up still needing to be done but we are getting there.

 

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Sandy

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Next was a simple little task of making a pair of front footsteps.

 

I first selected a piece of scrap brass that would afford me the least amount of cutting. Then, having measured the outline of the steps I covered it in black permanent marker and marked out the measurements with a scriber using a square and ruler.

The curves were drawn using a suitably round object!

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Using a Tamiaya skrawker I scored and snapped the steps from the scrap.

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The curves were cut carefully using the slitting disc on edge and slowly grinding back to the marked line.

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A piercing saw was used to separate the two steps

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Another piece of scrap was then tinned and soldered to the bottom of the step and then bent over at a right angle to form the foot plate. This was then measured, marked and cut using a sharp pair of tinsnips. Cut it over long to begin with and then snip of small amounts and you won't get a bent step. I then used a narrow pair of grips to tweek the edges over.

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Result

post-7733-0-95724700-1438954008_thumb.jpg

 

Sandy

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another little scratch building project, similar to what I did for the Class 179, a Westinghouse brake set up on a CR Class 66 this time.

 

The scan shows what I need to achieve as it is a significant part of the chassis, and the look of the locomotive, so it has to be represented in some way. Remember that this is a refurbishment of a previously scratch built model and will never be a museum piece to be admired for its fidelity! It will be a working representation of the prototype that needs to earn its keep on a model railway. On the model the brake gear will be painted dirty black, weathered and most of the detail will not be seen so a representation is all that is needed.

 

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I first made a rough sketch of the brake gear components by placing a piece of paper behind the wheels on the chassis frame and drew on the main parts. The vertical operating ram, brake hangers, brake blocks and the connecting actuators.

 

post-7733-0-48866600-1440085858_thumb.jpg

 

From this sketch I was able to put together the component parts I needed from my scrap box. Telescopic tube, brake blocks and hangers.

 

The inner tube had the bottom 4mm squeezed flat and a .8mm hole drilled in it.(not shown in the photograph)

 

post-7733-0-13939400-1440085867_thumb.jpg

 

I then marked where the top pivots would be on the chassis sides and drilled them .8mm.

 

post-7733-0-29799200-1440085875_thumb.jpg

 

I followed this by cutting 4 short lengths of .8mm I/D tube to space the hangers out from the chassis sides and soldered the pivots and spacers to the chassis.

 

post-7733-0-51902000-1440085883_thumb.jpg

 

Finally I built up and soldered the brake blocks to the hangers and the hangers to the top pivots. A length of .8mm wire was then passed through the hole in the flattened end of the inner tube and bent down to make a shallow inverted V. Four more lengths of .8mm I/D tube were cut and fed on to the wire, one each side, and the wire adjusted for the correct angle and length and was then soldered to the bottom pivot point of the brake hangers.

Finally the larger length of tube was fitted over the smaller length and soldered together so that the top of the large tube was just below the footplate level.

 

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After a good clean up with a wire brush in the drill, and covered in paint and grime, I think it will look ok.

 

Regards

Sandy

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Hello Sandy,

 

that should look OK when it got some paint on it. Looking at the drivers in your photos it looks like only one of them has been insulated by cutting through the spokes, or is one axle insulated on both sides?

 

See you soon,

 

OzzyO.

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Hello Sandy,

 

that should look OK when it got some paint on it. Looking at the drivers in your photos it looks like only one of them has been insulated by cutting through the spokes, or is one axle insulated on both sides?

 

See you soon,

 

OzzyO.

The wheels are just selected at random to make up the Piccie. The correct orientation will be selected in the final construction.

 

See you at Telford?

 

Sandy

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  • 2 months later...

You may recall that some weeks ago I took on a challenge to refurb two Caledonian 4-4-0 a Gourock and Oban bogie that had been scratch built by a friend but with very little detail included.

 

I have now completed them and the photos are below.

 

Sandy

 

This was as I received the Gourock Bogie.

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post-7733-0-47468200-1445706918_thumb.jpg

 

 

This was how I received the Oban Bogie.

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post-7733-0-72454100-1445706921_thumb.jpg

 

post-7733-0-00481500-1445706925_thumb.jpg

 

post-7733-0-80190600-1445706927_thumb.jpg

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Sandy,

 

Quite an impressive achievement, the more so because putting right what someone else has built is always more difficult than building it yourself.

:clapping:

 

Regards,

 

Jim

It is Jim, but also quite satisfying although, judging by the present kit I am building, I'm not so sure that I shouldn't be doing another refurb!!!! This kit is awful. I have had to modify just about every part I have fitted so far. I'll post something on it in the near future.

Regards

Sandy

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It is Jim, but also quite satisfying although, judging by the present kit I am building, I'm not so sure that I shouldn't be doing another refurb!!!! This kit is awful. I have had to modify just about every part I have fitted so far. I'll post something on it in the near future.

Regards

Sandy

More of an incentive to scratch-building then than an aid?

 

I'll be patient and wait for your posting to see what this horror was.

 

Regards,

 

Jim

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Hi,  again two more lovely locos  rise from their ashes on your bench.  Super paint job, I think they look just right.The blue you have used and its sheen look very realistic. It must have been very satisfying  to get them to this state from their rather sparse origins.  All the best.

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