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nick_bastable

Whats on your 2mm Work bench

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Hi Nigel,

 

Is all lost?

The transfers look fine (on the whole) to my eyes, but then maybe my standards are lower!

There is nothing there that a bit of touching up with some paint and maybe a fine black or coloured marker wouldn't sort.

 

Once the weathering is on along with the final varnish coats I think all would look good.

 

Just my opinion of course.

 

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If I could achieve this standard of finish I'd be delighted!  But then maybe I'm too easily pleased.:(

 

Jim

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Hello Nigel,

I'm interested in your experiments and observations, having recently bought a set of this lining to apply to my Jubilee later this year (he says, optimistically!). I also have a brace of Fence Houses / Association '5's to build...

It all looks fiendishly difficult to get lined up - I'm impressed with what you have achieved.

Did you apply the tender and cab-side panels in one piece, or separate sections?

 

Of necessity the lining is over-scale, and I think that weathering will knock back the starkness of it and in the process disguise any slight imperfections.

I might even be tempted to try weathering a sample (not on the loco) in the same black you painted it in, to see if it will make the lining "disappear" a bit?

 

One thing that does stand out to me is how low the top curve comes down at the back of the tender. I thought the vertical section at the rear of the tender should be much closer in height to the vertical section at the front?

 

Nick.

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Nigel,

I found similar problems with the Fox set I used on my GW King but all was rescued (in my eyes) by MicroSet/MicroFix, some judicious weathering and a coat or two of satin varnish. In my case, weathering included an overall wash of loco green which toned down the rather over-scale and strident orange lining.

Best wishes,

.John

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I've been doing a little gardening in preparation for the new exhibition season. I've been adding some extra vegetation using Noch and Model Scene products. Some Buddleia bushes and a few delphiniums (delphinia?) have been planted, along with a mixture of ferns. Still not complete, but now the glue is dry, I need to go round curling the ferns. I have also been adding lots of Burdock leaves. Cutting out from the laser etched material is a slow process, and I have spent a few hours just adding these. I still have a load more bullrushes to add.

 

I really want to get the rear of the layout completed before progressing with the front of the layout, to avoid damage.

 

ferns1.jpg.b268b9f12643ef88d8712d70420f1ed9.jpgferns2.jpg.e292f4f2d956967df3f29ccfd84aa671.jpgferns3.jpg.70b69db1bb783cd012133b7305c78622.jpg

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14 hours ago, Nick Mitchell said:

Hello Nigel,

I'm interested in your experiments and observations, having recently bought a set of this lining to apply to my Jubilee later this year (he says, optimistically!). I also have a brace of Fence Houses / Association '5's to build...

It all looks fiendishly difficult to get lined up - I'm impressed with what you have achieved.

Did you apply the tender and cab-side panels in one piece, or separate sections?

 

Of necessity the lining is over-scale, and I think that weathering will knock back the starkness of it and in the process disguise any slight imperfections.

I might even be tempted to try weathering a sample (not on the loco) in the same black you painted it in, to see if it will make the lining "disappear" a bit?

 

One thing that does stand out to me is how low the top curve comes down at the back of the tender. I thought the vertical section at the rear of the tender should be much closer in height to the vertical section at the front?

 

Nick.

Hello Nick,

 

The cab-side panels were one piece, the tender panels cut into four quadrants.

 

I'm tempted to give the whole loco and tender a thin extra coat of black as you and John BS suggest, then varnish and weathering.

 

I agree with you about the rear tender lining. The drop from the higher level to the lower level is unchanged from the original transfer (I checked an unused pack) but if I moved the rear section up closer to the top edge of the rear of the tender, then the higher middle section would have to rise over the turned over section of the side. I'd say the change in height required is about 1mm, which suggests to me that the transfer is wrong.

 

Thanks to everyone else for their comments and suggestions. I'll see how the next stages work out.

 

Nig H

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Posted (edited)

Here are some new pics of my Black 5. I put a light coat of satin black over the transfers to tone them down, then a coat of gloss varnish as an experiment. The smokebox has a thin wash of matt black.

 

1978225715_MyBlack5(40).jpg.35090203fb0f3d074f4688d5782f5b37.jpg

 

557506893_MyBlack5(42).jpg.768fcbe75847c3d5457c386208e61cd6.jpg

 

2003174886_MyBlack5(48).jpg.d6c617af7d3aef5265e05318da803e2f.jpg

 

1679328442_MyBlack5(51).jpg.4fb3c304878e943834a3cb08742a3dd4.jpg

 

 

I think this will have to do for now. I might start again after the Aberdeen exhibition.

 

Nig H

 

Edited by Nig H
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Do I see that the local scallys at Edge Hill have nicked the front number plate? Knock off anything around there even when it is bolted down :D

 

Nice work, as ever, Nigel.

 

David

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As I've said before, I would be delighted to achieve a finish like that. Look forward to seeing it in action at Aberdeen. 

 

Jim 

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I am with Jim on this.  Those photos are showing on my screen at least twice as big ( well actually 4 times the area) and nothing stands out or jars. Running in service it will look superb.

 

Don

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6 hours ago, DavidLong said:

Do I see that the local scallys at Edge Hill have nicked the front number plate? Knock off anything around there even when it is bolted down https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/emoticons/default_biggrin.png

 

Nice work, as ever, Nigel.

 

David

Hello David,

 

You've won a coconut for identifying the shed correctly. I thought about putting a number plate on, and I may yet. The running number for this loco is wrong actually as 45249 was a prewar build with a shorter union link.

 

Thanks to Jim and Don for your kind comments too. Jim, I will bring some old type wagon wheels to Aberdeen for you to sift through.

 

Nig H

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On 28/09/2019 at 01:10, 2mmKiwi said:

This morning I added in the stone wall which has been white washed. I now need to find a domestic gate to fill the gateway.

Does any know a good range of etched gates available in 2mm?

After I get the gate in there is another sign to go on the wall - keeping up the intense advertising :-)

 

A useful source of etched gates etc is Scale Link (now produced by "Scale Link fretcetera"): https://www.scalelinkfretcetera.co.uk/product-category/frets/1152-160-n-gauge/

 

Anthony

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On 09/10/2019 at 00:46, Donw said:

I am with Jim on this.  Those photos are showing on my screen at least twice as big ( well actually 4 times the area) and nothing stands out or jars. Running in service it will look superb.

 

Don

 

Hi Nigel - To me it looks like a loco that the cleaners have been over and it has just been turned out ready for the road. I think that the Satin Black treatment has worked nicely bringing the lining colour tones down to scale. The Matt Black on the smoke box is also effective adding some variance as would be expected. Nice work and thanks for sharing.

 

SteveM

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I've started my 2mm 42xx. Too bad the society is out of wheels... sigh.

 

TXhzy9H.jpg

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This is a project I am working on:

DSC09801.JPG.778bf06ce86bcfb1150a46597f7980d2.JPGDSC09803.JPG.6e4b4f5da6be6f894ec2846ee300b1b4.JPG

I am recreating a replica of the Bing LNWR George the Fifth 2mm floor train set. The chassis you see here is a cut-down Lone Star A4 chassis modified to resemble a 4-4-0 chassis. Prior to photography, the running-board and front buffer-beam have been fitted on.

image.png.d8502bfb9291f3e0ee385f3bb39c2dc4.png

image.png.ada120bbfce7288c3f3901af9b136224.pngimage.png.0d5a3e7fbff14b8b657fc0e16151b763.png

The body is being constructed from scratch as well as the tender and coaches. I will also run on Lone Star 000 diecast metal track. Also, I am dedicating the finished models to the LNWR George the Fifth Society.

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Work has started on my new DJLC entry...Treviscoe...

 

675C05D7-5529-4AC2-9BC7-FB0494566C9C.jpeg.f17b173280d4ba1023b8afd004eee46c.jpeg

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11 hours ago, bcnPete said:

Work has started on my new DJLC entry...Treviscoe...

 

What sort of baseboard is that?...

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12 hours ago, bcnPete said:

 

Very nicely made pointwork.  But the PCB sleepers look much wider than the Easitrack sleepers. I found this when using 2mm society PCB sleepers with my N Finetrax. 

Does anyone make PCB sleepers which match the sleeper width of Easitrack and Finetrax?

Ian

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11 minutes ago, OFFTHE RAILS said:

 

Very nicely made pointwork.  But the PCB sleepers look much wider than the Easitrack sleepers. I found this when using 2mm society PCB sleepers with my N Finetrax. 

Does anyone make PCB sleepers which match the sleeper width of Easitrack and Finetrax?

Ian

 

Point sleepering is wider than plain track, I believe.

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Point timbers (not sleepers) were normally 12 (sometimes 14) inches wide whereas plain track sleepers were 9 inches wide, I believe. Wide sleepers were also used at rail joints in plain track in days gone by.

 

 

 

Edited by Ian Morgan
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I  think 10 inches wide was the norm in the UK with 12in mainly for turnouts with the odd 14in ones usually at the crossing

 

Don

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Looking at Harton Colliery nos. 2 and 10, 13 and 15 (Mr. Edge's excellent 2mm etches) and perhaps a small layout/diorama to run them on.

 

IMG_0314.jpeg.c152c70d69244c444508d0d9d6b49b6e.jpeg

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10 minutes ago, Alex Duckworth said:

Looking at Harton Colliery nos. 2 and 10, 13 and 15 (Mr. Edge's excellent 2mm etches) and perhaps a small layout/diorama to run them on.

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_2019_10/IMG_0314.jpeg.c152c70d69244c444508d0d9d6b49b6e.jpeg

Hi

 

I'll be interested to see how you get on with motorising these as I have a pair of the Harton BoBos to build in 2mm.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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