RMweb Premium Nig H Posted January 4, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 I've finally got round to priming my L & Y saddle tank. The grey helps show blemishes. I'll try to test how well the primer adheres to the metal when I get ready to apply the top coat. Regards, Nig H 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted January 4, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 I've finally got round to priming my L & Y saddle tank. The grey helps show blemishes. I'll try to test how well the primer adheres to the metal when I get ready to apply the top coat. L & Y Saddle tank#1.jpg L & Y Saddle tank#3.jpg Regards, Nig H Nigel, Have you replaced the smokebox door with the 'flatter' version? I'm guessing from the style of the front handrail. The kit has the 'dished' version I think. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted January 4, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 Nigel, Have you replaced the smokebox door with the 'flatter' version? I'm guessing from the style of the front handrail. The kit has the 'dished' version I think. David I thought I built from whatever was in the box. Here is an earlier picture, maybe the door is clearer. The handrail knobs look huge! Nig H 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted January 4, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 I thought I built from whatever was in the box. Here is an earlier picture, maybe the door is clearer. The handrail knobs look huge! L & Y saddle tank #2.jpg Nig H Hi Nigel, There are two types of smokebox door: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:L%26YR_Class_23#mediaviewer/File:Sowerby_Bridge_Locomotive_Depot_geograph-2216352.jpg http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:L%26YR_Class_23#mediaviewer/File:LYR_Aspinall_Class_23_O-6-0ST_51524_at_Fleetwood_in_1958.jpg Without checking I think that the kit has the former type. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Thanks to all for the welcome and the kind comments. I'd advise watching the time in a different way though because RMWeb can be more tempting than sorting out those niggling issues with your modelling projects. Thanks for the warning, but, as a member of the CRA forum, i am well aware of how these things can eat into good modelling time! Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mikes rail Posted January 4, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2015 My project over the holidays has been to try and get a short test track up and running. Its being a learning curve and I know it needs to be better but any comments good bad or have I thought of trying knitting instead most welcome. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 (edited) My project over the holidays has been to try and get a short test track up and running. Its being a learning curve and I know it needs to be better but any comments good bad or have I thought of trying knitting instead most welcome. you've built one that's 100% more than many members and the second will be better well done Edited January 4, 2015 by nick_bastable 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 4, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2015 You have made quite a good job of it. However you asked for comments and in the spirit of being helpful; If you compare the gauge throught the turnout with the gauge of the easitrac bits at the end of the crossing it looks wider. Now this could be an optical illusion caused by camera angle. If you have one of the digital calipers you should be able to check. Gauge should slip on fairly easily. It is possible if you apply side pressure to move a rail over a fraction distorting the chairs which will spring back when you remove the gauge. Please do not be put off by my comment the shaping of the rails and the crossing all look very good. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mikes rail Posted January 5, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2015 Thanks for the notes Donw, it's all soldered track work not got around to trying easitrac yet. Getting the gauge right is were I am having problems, have built using turnout jig and b7 template. Was fine with stock rails but found that when switch rails added test loco(gf class 4 diesel re gauged with wheels turned down) was pinching when running though the point so had to ease gauge a little. I tried the crossing jig but was having problems working out were to solder cross strips to hold it all together with out it getting in way of point timbers. its a learning curve and will try again and see if I can get it better next time, I allso think I need to juggle the stock rails next time Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 5, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2015 Mike, I don't know how you built the turnout. I start with the crossing having made the crossing assembly first. I find that thread on a short piece of the plain track easitrac, holds the ends of the rails and makes it easier to work. I tend to agree with you about the jig. It is not easy keeping the strips in place while soldering as you cannot see when the solder melts or sets. When I needed crossing to a non-standard size I built them the other way up on a spare print from templot. Holding the rails with bits of blue tack I slid bits of scrap etch under rails ( four pieces at the nose, the knuckle and one either side). I could then see the solder joints and trim back the etch when assembled. With the jig it may be easier to mark the intended timber positions on the jig but leave the timbers loose until the crossing assembly has been made which would allow slight adjustment of the timbers. If you are using track with the rail soldered direct to the pcb I would use the PCB sleepers cut extra long in place of the scrap etch which can be trimmed to legnth later. Trying to position pcb sleepers in both directions at once would add to the difficulty. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted January 5, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 5, 2015 Thanks for the notes Donw, it's all soldered track work not got around to trying easitrac yet. Getting the gauge right is were I am having problems, have built using turnout jig and b7 template. Was fine with stock rails but found that when switch rails added test loco(gf class 4 diesel re gauged with wheels turned down) was pinching when running though the point so had to ease gauge a little. I tried the crossing jig but was having problems working out were to solder cross strips to hold it all together with out it getting in way of point timbers. its a learning curve and will try again and see if I can get it better next time, I allso think I need to juggle the stock rails next time I think using soldered construction of rail straight onto pcb sleepers is an ideal way to learn and practice turnout construction since it's easy and simple to make adjustments when you discover where problems can occur. It looks a clean neat job to me and I'm sure you must be both pleased and satisfied that you have now made your first one. I'm afraid I have only ever used a jig for plain track assembly, just using either proper or home produced templates (however crude and simple) as a guide for pointwork so I can't offer any advice on using one, but I would say that having also encountered the problem of the gauge not being wide enough at the switches/blades in the past now use a set order in which to lay the rails to avoid this issue. Basically, as Don, I lay the crossing first, followed by the 'main' stock rail gauged off it - the one that doesn't have a 'set' in it to match the blade angle, A/B/C etc - then the wing and closure rail and switch blade associated with it, followed by the second stock rail, which can be accurately gauged off the blade/closure/crossing rails (I find I can basically curve/bend the rail to match as well as putting the set in before laying it). After this the second closure/wing/and blade can be laid. Doing it in this way ensures that the gauge isn't under at the toe of the blades/switches, and allows for variation in how well you have managed to file the blades. If you lay both stock rails first, as I have seen suggested many times, then this will be 'blind' - even if it's on a template - and trying to accurately place the crossing correctly gauged from both in the right place can be a challenge, followed by another of trying to file the blades to suit the already laid stock rails. Hope this might help with the next one you make. Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mikes rail Posted January 5, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2015 Thank you both for your most interesting replys, I can see that laying the crossing first makes sense and would solve the problem I have had with gauge. I will have a go doing it this way but think I will have a stab at the wagon kit first Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I agree with Don and Izzy. My order of construction for the turnouts on Kirkallanmuir was slightly different as i was laying them with interlaced sleepers, using PCB for the timbers at the switch and crossing areas and Easitrac for the rest. Also, I was laying directly in situ onto a 'rails only' Templot print out of the whole layout. When it came to fitting the switches, I used a button gauge between the toe of the first switch and the opposite stock rail to ensure that the gauge wasn't tight. Having said that, it looks a very good first effort and, rest assured, each one will be better and easier than the last! The beauty of soldered track is that you can adjust things slightly very easily to clear tight spots, something which the Forth and Clyde group found that you can't do with Easitrac turnouts. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
117puzzler Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Over the Christmas brake I finally managed to finish (well sort of) three etches of the 21t mineral wagon kits i have had stashed away for a while. Not as interesting as some bits on hear but its fuled my fire to try and get some more. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Very neat, clean work. I really like what I see! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted January 15, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15, 2015 Here are a couple of pics of my L & Y saddle tank, now painted and awaiting weathering. Not the greatest runner but I'll try a few more attempts at improving it. Nig H 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Thought I'd post an update on the bridge project for Kirkallanmuir. I found that it was easiest to build the long retaining wall 'off site' as the garage is a bit cold to work in for any length of time these days. I printed out a template and used this to get things roughly in the correct relationship and then did a lot of 'trying in' and adjusting to get the alignments right. The photo shows the bridge abutments finished along with the roadway on the far side, while in the foreground you can see the first bit of the long retaining wall (it is 860mm long in total). Since taking the photo I've improved the joint between the lengths of embossed styrene stonework and added the parapet wall and the copings. The platform ramp can be seen poking out from under the bridge. Everything is taped to the printed template here. I will try and start a separate thread for Kirkallanmuir soon. One wee question. I notice everyone else's posts have a string of icons in the bottom right hand corner, but not mine. Am I missing something in my posting? Jim 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sykes Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Jim, I think those icons are for readers to rate your posting, in the form of like/agree/great craftsmanship etc. Presumably they don't appear on a post you originate as you're assumed to think it's quite good! Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Thought I'd post an update on the bridge project for Kirkallanmuir. I found that it was easiest to build the long retaining wall 'off site' as the garage is a bit cold to work in for any length of time these days. I printed out a template and used this to get things roughly in the correct relationship and then did a lot of 'trying in' and adjusting to get the alignments right. The photo shows the bridge abutments finished along with the roadway on the far side, while in the foreground you can see the first bit of the long retaining wall (it is 860mm long in total). Since taking the photo I've improved the joint between the lengths of embossed styrene stonework and added the parapet wall and the copings. The platform ramp can be seen poking out from under the bridge. Everything is taped to the printed template here. I will try and start a separate thread for Kirkallanmuir soon. 2015-01-17-1075_1.jpg One wee question. I notice everyone else's posts have a string of icons in the bottom right hand corner, but not mine. Am I missing something in my posting? Jim Jim, I think that the icons are there to allow others to provide a form of feedback to you the poster (obviously you probably wouldn't want to rate your own posting). Just out of interest what make of plasticard sheeting are you using for the stonework? I am looking to make a start on my own overbridge while it's chilly out in the workshop, and have a couple of different Slater's sheets (one of which seems to have pretty small stonework on it) that I had thought about using. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Jim, I think that the icons are there to allow others to provide a form of feedback to you the poster (obviously you probably wouldn't want to rate your own posting). Just out of interest what make of plasticard sheeting are you using for the stonework? I am looking to make a start on my own overbridge while it's chilly out in the workshop, and have a couple of different Slater's sheets (one of which seems to have pretty small stonework on it) that I had thought about using. Ian Hi Ian, Thanks to you and Steve for enlightening me about the icons. I understand now! The styrene In using is Slaters. The little yellow sticker had '0435' on it if that helps. The stone courses are about 1.5mm with the odd larger, squarer stone covering two courses. I also have some finer stuff with around 1mm courses which is what i have used for the parapet walls. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernboy Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 "I will try and start a separate thread for Kirkallanmuir soon." I look forward to that Caley Jim. From what we've seen to-date I think it will be quite interesting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Now started at http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/95081-kirkallanmuir/ Jim 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Caledonian 2 plank wagon from Buchanan Kits. Knocked this together yesterday and just fitted buffers this morning. The etch is well thought out with some useful assembly aids built in. 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkAustin Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Caledonian 2 plank wagon from Buchanan Kits. WP_20150125_001_processed.jpg Knocked this together yesterday and just fitted buffers this morning. The etch is well thought out with some useful assembly aids built in. Not heard of this supplier before. Is there a web site? Mark A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sykes Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Buchanan Kits is Jim Watt's range of etches. I think there was some information in the Newsletter recently as to what's available and cost. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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