kingfisher24 Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 any more snaps of the glen, have you decided which name is going to be applied yet? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted July 26, 2014 Author Share Posted July 26, 2014 any more snaps of the glen, have you decided which name is going to be applied yet? No not yet as I haven't got round to the lining yet. Or choosing a name for that matter! I'll have to look through some photos & see what inspires me. Do you know where to get the name transfers? Your post has spurred me on though, so I'll have a bash at the lining tonight or in the morning! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrg1 Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 A very entertaining thread-can you tell us how you bend up continuous handrails and sharp pipe bends so accurately? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 Will, Modelmaster used to do a couple of sheets of 'painted' Scottish names, might be worth giving them a call and speaking to Jim Grindlay, he seems to have the entire inventory in his head!!! Cheers from Oz, Peter C. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted July 27, 2014 Author Share Posted July 27, 2014 A very entertaining thread-can you tell us how you bend up continuous handrails and sharp pipe bends so accurately? With quite a bit of trial & error! This is the first continuous handrail I've made & from memory I got it correct at my second attempt. I followed the method on the Tony Wright loco building dvd (invaluable for the novice kit builder in my opinion) & started by forming the curve (remembering to thread to top handrail knob on first), then holding the curved wire up to the smokebox door and making the first bend away from the loco, kind if like a mirror image. Once the first side seems ok it's a bit hit-and-hope for the second side with lots of tweaking with needle nose pliers & occasional profanity, before ending up with something hopefully acceptable. I agree that when it's done correctly it helps the 'face' of the loco look more correct. I think a GWR handrail would be more difficult than a 'Glen' one as the corners on the Glen handrail are more gradual, as opposed to the sharp, precise corners on a GWR loco. cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted July 27, 2014 Author Share Posted July 27, 2014 Will, Modelmaster used to do a couple of sheets of 'painted' Scottish names, might be worth giving them a call and speaking to Jim Grindlay, he seems to have the entire inventory in his head!!! Cheers from Oz, Peter C. Cheers, I'll look into that! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingfisher24 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 yes modelmaster do a sheet still which has two or three glen names but they can be cut and shut into others, i managed to make glen lyon, glen loy and glen falloch from the sheet, i will dig it out and let you know what sheet it is. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingfisher24 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 the sheets by modelmaster are packs 4007 & 4008B. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 Hi all, I've made a start on lining the Glen with the bowpen. This is my first time using it on splashers so there's a few wonky lines but weathering will hide most of it. Still got boiler bands to do, but I'll do these flat on tape first, then cut & transfer them across to the loco. DSC02085 by will5210, on Flickr Also made a start on K4 mk3. All the detail have been seen before so I won't repeat at length. It's the K3 cab with the front cut out & replaced with plasticard with the correct shaped spectacles, & a brass tube boiler endlessly hacked, bend & filed 'til it looks something like - still loads to add though. This cab & boiler won't end up as a loco, but as moulds for resin casting so I can reproduce the remaining 4 class members easier & quicker (hopefully) than the first 2, & fit them to K3 chassis as & when I pick them up. My current thinking is to mould the dome as part of the casting, but fit the chimney & smokebox afterwards as separate parts. DSC02084 by will5210, on Flickr Cheers 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 Got a little bit more done on the K4 master but I've been distracted over the last few nights with a first attempt at trackbuilding. I've had this old SMP Y point kit lying around for a while (since Manchester show last year actually, when I bought it for £3) I thought a Y might be too complicated for a first attempt, so I printed off a B6 with templot & cracked on. Construction wasn't completely straight forward. I really need another roller gauge & a pair of check guages but I've been holding back as I'm still undecided between OO-BF, OO-SF or even EM. I followed Gordon S's assembly method for the most part, with Brian Harrap's Vee making method & more than a few bits of info I've gleaned from Hayfield's useful threads. It isn't pretty & it'll never be used on a layout, but It seems to work & I will wire it up & connect it to a tortoise on a little test track to practice ballasting a few other bits. DSC02086 by will5210, on Flickr Cheers 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 Hi all Flushed with the apparent success of prototype point #1 I've been giving my layout plans some thought. Though I'd planned to build Ardlui first I couldn't resist trying to fit Crianlarich into my 16' x 9' loft area, as it's my favorite station on the West Highland & has just a bit more going on with the track plan. Crianlarich plan 10 by will5210, on Flickr I then put this into Templot & printed it out to see if reasonable sized trains would fit & if my station building would fit on the island platform. Good news!- The building fit & 7 coach trains should be feasible (or 2 'Glens' with 6). It was pretty dark by the time I'd stuck them all together so the picture is rubbish, but hopefully you'll get the gist. DSC02108 by will5210, on Flickr Cheers 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
forest2807 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Interested to see the K4 project moving along nicely. Any chance you may ever market one or two of the resin body castings? It would be such a shame to underuse that beautiful master mould! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Interested to see the K4 project moving along nicely. Any chance you may ever market one or two of the resin body castings?... I was about to ask a similar question.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 Hi, if by some chance I get a presentable result from the moulding, then I suppose I could make a couple extra. Quite a long way to go until then though, but thanks for your interest! Will 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portchullin Tatty Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Will, On your turnout, the gap between the crossing and the near switch rail looks mighty tight. This needs to be, and remain electrically isolated, so make sure that it is a good 1/2mm or more. There are lots of good words on trackbuilding on here (Hayfield's thread for example or of the Scalefour Society's forum). Its worth looking through them. Do like the K4's. I have a vague hankering for Fort Bill in the blood & custard era. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Cheers Tatty, I still haven't wired the thing up yet (this weekend hopefully) but I'll look out for any problems in that area. I've seen Hayfield's threads on here - very useful they were too for a newb like myself. Speaking of Fort Bill the current (very) long term plan is to have Fort William yard as a scenic fiddle yard/loco storage on the other side of the attic. Incidentally, I saw Ian Futers at Preston Exhibition & asked him what had happened to his 40ft long O gauge model of Fort William & he informed me he'd burnt it! I couldn't quite believe it! cheers Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 Finally got round to lining & christening the Glen. It is now No. 9258 Glen Roy. Numbers & lining are HMRS with a bit of very bad hand lining with a ruling pen (I need more practice with this!) All will be eventually covered with a nice layer of grime as per a photo I've seen in a H.C. Casserley book. I'll seal the lot in satin varnish tomorrow before final touches & weathering Will 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingfisher24 Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 Finally got round to lining & christening the Glen. It is now No. 9258 Glen Roy. Numbers & lining are HMRS with a bit of very bad hand lining with a ruling pen (I need more practice with this!) All will be eventually covered with a nice layer of grime as per a photo I've seen in a H.C. Casserley book. I'll seal the lot in satin varnish tomorrow before final touches & weathering Will very nice indeed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted September 21, 2014 Author Share Posted September 21, 2014 Cheers. By the way, I used a sheet of generic cream letters from Fox for the name. The font is 'Franklyn Heavy' & you get 6 of each letter in 2mm & 1mm in cream. I used 2mm and they're a little big - I think 1.5mm would be ideal - but 1mm would've been far too fiddly. They were £5 a sheet but that should be enough for several locos. Will 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingfisher24 Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Cheers. By the way, I used a sheet of generic cream letters from Fox for the name. The font is 'Franklyn Heavy' & you get 6 of each letter in 2mm & 1mm in cream. I used 2mm and they're a little big - I think 1.5mm would be ideal - but 1mm would've been far too fiddly. They were £5 a sheet but that should be enough for several locos. it will indeed, i really like the livery of the loco, i often fancy doing a glen in lner green as that livery also looks bonni on these locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted September 21, 2014 Author Share Posted September 21, 2014 it will indeed, i really like the livery of the loco, i often fancy doing a glen in lner green as that livery also looks bonni on these locos. Apple Green is out of my period for the Glen I'm afraid but I agree it'd look well. Specially doubled heading with an apple green K2 maybe? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted September 27, 2014 Author Share Posted September 27, 2014 Glen 95% done. A bit of touching up, glazing, weathering & coal needed Pictured with future partner in crime 'Loch Rannoch' Will 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scots region Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 I didn't know you were doing Crianlarich Will, do you need any photos? I'm less than an hour away from it. ScR Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 I didn't know you were doing Crianlarich Will, do you need any photos? I'm less than an hour away from it. ScR Thats kind of you cheers. Crianlarich is now the medium term plan. At least I know it fits in the loft though (with compromises) & I have the templot plan there when I'm ready to start. It had crossed my mind though to start a bit smaller considering this will be my first layout with hand-built track, so I'm eyeing up Fort Augustus Pier station on a 6' x 2' board. Only 4 turnouts required & only 2 buildings so hopefully I should be able to get it done with out getting bogged down & have somewhere to run my West Highland locos. Cheers Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 Glen Roy now largely done. Smith's couplings have been attached & it was then weathered with aerosols, dry brushed enamels & powders. Spectacle glass is Glue N Glaze. I hope to get some better photos in real daylight at the weekend. Next jobs: 1. Finish the P2 (which is glossed & ready for transfers) 2. Get on with my K4 mk3 3. Make some sort of layout progress!! Cheers 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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