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Front engine just requiring front valve cover, front steps and buffers (and pick-ups)

Hind engine is in identical condition

 

 

 

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Edited by Giles
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  • 2 weeks later...

Now ready for decoders and weathering.......

 

Details of the adventure will eventually follow!

 

I've already fitted a bass reflex speaker into the firebox (which has an open bottom for this very purpose) and I shall put a 23mm dia. speaker into the front tank.

 

SWD Sound decoder will be fitted to the front engine, and a SWD standard decoder to the hind engine. The dangling wires that are visible will connect the pickups from bock engines for continuity.

 

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Edited by Giles
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Having read through this thread and spotted your lovely little brass sash clamps I invested in a pair myself via Axminster Tools, ordered online yesterday and they arrived today. This is been a great build thread and it's going to be certainly an impressive result once finished.

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Thank you Nigel!

 

Those little sash cramps are extremely useful, it must be said......

 

I had a slight problem on Wednesday (I was in bed all day yesterday unwell) as the new sound decoder burnt out after re-addressing (no short-circuits, or wiring issues....) which is a pity.....

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Addendum to the last - the kind folk at SouthWestDigital will kindly replace the unit. There is an outside chance that the Gaugemaster Prodigy2 occasionally sends a 'spike' when programming, which proves destructive to the v4. In any event, we'll get it sorted......

 

Weathering now!

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Finally finished! (apart from crew). Also still to do is to tweak CV's, as it is behaving as a 'Push-me-pull-you' - insofar as the hind engine accelerates much faster that the front engine at present. A joy to watch, though....

 

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Would I build another one? not if my life depended on it.

Edited by Giles
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Finally got round to tweaking the CV's to match, so the engines perform together..... Wonderful! And it sounds lovely. She's also now got her crew on board, so she's all dressed up and no place to go!

 

 

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She's a loco I'm now really happy with, And I've tried a few new techniques on (for me), and she goes to the top of my list of my favourite loco....

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  • 2 weeks later...

Giles

 

Totally brilliant ( I speak as one who tried with this particular kit and gave up!) Thank you too for the tip regrading the 1200 grit paper. I have acquired some and what a difference it makes to surfaces. I am so grateful for the tip.

 

Regards

 

Martin Long

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Bless you Martin...

A longer story of the build will be appearing in either Narrow Gauge and Industrial Railway Review or possibly the new Finescale magazine - it's up to Bob Barlow!

 

I'm delighted that you are getting on with the flatting and polishing technique - it's a personal thing, but I think it makes all the difference in the world to my models..... It takes a bit of time, but it's quite satisfying, and the result is great! (I use 2000 grit though, but 1200 would seem just about fine enough!)

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  • 4 months later...

i'm in the process of building a 'Locos 'n' Stuff' Kerr Stuart Wren in 0-14. 

It's had a full cab re-build and buffer beam reduction to bring it down to scale width (but that's all so far).

 

It's a diminutive little thing, emphasised by the accompanying Bagnall, which is not an overly large loco itself, which will make a pleasant little addition as a works loco to 'Denton Brook' (assuming it can cope with genuine wagon loads).

 

(This is a fully Andy York compliant post)

 

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Edited by Giles
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That's going from one extreme to the other Giles!  I don't think I commented on the completed garratt, a superb piece of model making, with an equally superb finish.

 

All the best,

Dave.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Do let us know when your article comes out so we can hunt down a copy.

 

Seriously want one.

 

NG&IMR (now under Roy Link's care) No 103 will be out later this week, and includes a full article on the Garratt, plus original Beyer plans

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The Wren is 2/3rd done, with the exception of the boiler, and the tank wrapper, entirely silver-soldered. This made things like the backhead fittings very much easier and neater, without them dropping off or moving when I did the next one....

 

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Sticking out like a sore thumb at the moment are the completed steps -one of the most delicate silver soldering jobs I've done (the brass hangers are about 0.8mm x 0.5mm). The only point worth mentioning, is that when silver soldering things this fine, you can melt the brass into a blob if you're not careful, so the technique is to dance the flame on and off it, not allowing the brass to get too hot (if it gets to a bright red, then it will disappear....). I wouldn't do these steps as your very first SSoldering piece, but once one becomes practiced, it certainly becomes the preferred way of doing it - simply because previous joints don't fall apart when you make the next one. One the steps, no cleaning up was necessary at all, other than routine 'pickling'. I use Swimming Pool PH reducer (in water) as a very effective pickle. 

 

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Lovely piece of work Giles, but I think I will stick to soft soldering!

 

The Garratt feature in The Review looks really good, But I haven't had a chance to read it yet.

 

Cheers,

Dave.

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NG&IMR (now under Roy Link's care) No 103 will be out later this week, and includes a full article on the Garratt, plus original Beyer plans

I know Giles, looking forward to reading it, had a nice chat with Roy, such a shame that The FS Review hasnt continued as it was just right I felt. Nice modelling BTW.

 

Sticking out like a sore thumb at the moment are the completed steps -one of the most delicate silver soldering jobs I've done (the brass hangers are about 0.8mm x 0.5mm). The only point worth mentioning, is that when silver soldering things this fine, you can melt the brass into a blob if you're not careful, so the technique is to dance the flame on and off it, not allowing the brass to get too hot (if it gets to a bright red, then it will disappear....). I wouldn't do these steps as your very first SSoldering piece, but once one becomes practiced, it certainly becomes the preferred way of doing it - simply because previous joints don't fall apart when you make the next one. One the steps, no cleaning up was necessary at all, other than routine 'pickling'. I use Swimming Pool PH reducer (in water) as a very effective pickle. 

 

1E089EDD-C357-4F1B-B611-C776F07063A0_zps

 

03F365DD-B2E7-4142-ADB9-1470621476C3_zps

Nice work Giles! I have chickened out of doing that to my Cl37, I shall fettle some Heljan bits and bobs and meld with some MMP super-detail parts. Having said that I have three sets to do for my Hymeks!

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