Jump to content
 

3d printing - what material to use


Recommended Posts

Hi all

 

As someone new to 3D printing I would be interested in knowing what materials use other RMWebbers prefer to get their products printed in. My first test pieces I printed up in frosted acrylic. Wasn't wonderfully impressed with the finished product and its also quite expensive, especially as I'm going to need alot of items printing.

 

What do others use?

 

thanks for all comments

 

Dean

Link to post
Share on other sites

As someone new to 3D printing I would be interested in knowing what materials use other RMWebbers prefer to get their products printed in. My first test pieces I printed up in frosted acrylic. Wasn't wonderfully impressed with the finished product and its also quite expensive, especially as I'm going to need alot of items printing.

 

 

Frosted Ultra Detail has the best surface finish of the commonly available materials, but it is only really useful when time and effort is put in to properly finishing it. That is to say it a good choice for making patterns for casting, but too expensive and brittle for most direct use. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

What scale are you working in?  Or, what size models do you want to print?

 

FUD is limited in size, so choices are more limited if desired size exceed FUD capabilities.  

 

My favourite, for Sn3.5 scale, is Prime Gray from i.Materialise.  The detail is not quite as good as FUD but it is available in larger sizes.  Also, the material seems quite durable.  My oldest parts are nearly 2 years old and still in perfect condition.  It is slightly more brittle than normal modelling styrene, but not unduly so.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

As Marbelup says, what scale are you working in?

 

For N gauge FUD is really the only option IMHO (unless you are adding etch overlays) which gives a decent enough finish and level of detail.  It is expensive, but not too expensive for N. For larger scales I would probably do as Bill says and print masters for casting.

 

Cheers, Mike

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Bounding box for FUD is 284 × 184 × 203 mm, and for Prime Grey 250 x 230 x 250 mm.

When I started out in late 2012, the bounding box for FUD was more like 100 mm cubed. Obviously, they have got bigger machines since then. The quality of prints I ordered at that time was pretty poor too, so I have not been tempted to try FUD again.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guy for your input. I'm modelling in 4mm and these are a few of the things I was hoping to have produced.

 

post-7075-0-95893900-1406140284_thumb.jpgpost-7075-0-64657100-1406140299_thumb.jpgpost-7075-0-95615900-1406140325.jpg

 

amongst others. I'm going to need quite a few of all of them and the other things I'm thinking of, which is what will make FUD quite (if not very) expensive.  I'm probably being over ambitious :-(

 

The two rather grand columns are about 92mm high, excluding fixing plugs, the canopy support about 50 high by about 60 across.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi

 

If this helps ....

 

Patterns made via 3D printing (stuck to a sheet of acrylic ready to make a mould). The machine in this case is an Object, Veroclear 16 micron. Patterns are quite smooth and for casting need no extra finishing.

 

 

post-17315-0-32927600-1406141907.jpg

 

post-17315-0-77935100-1406141907.jpg

 

post-17315-0-68652700-1406141908.jpg

 

Silicon moulds

 

post-17315-0-24886600-1406141908_thumb.jpg

 

First finished resin wagon (7mm) (still some bubbles!). Premier couplings, wheels from the spare wheel bin, buffer heads are drawing pins the rest is cast in resin. I 3D printed a stencil for the lettering.

 

post-17315-0-95754000-1406141909_thumb.jpg

 

post-17315-0-75588400-1406141906.jpg

 

Your first design would need some thinking about regarding the mould, if you did a careful one sided mould of half and stuck two together you might get away with it? If you think the others could be made in halfs, print halves as one sided moulds are very easy to make. These are all in 7mm so parts are thicker etc, 4mm, I dont know. Silicon is about £30 per kg enough for 5 or six moulds depending on size, resin is about £18 kg per 2kg. The resin appears to be very stable re heat and light.

 

Tom

Link to post
Share on other sites

The machine is one I currently have access too so not a commercial service. Personally to get high quality prints is relatively expensive, the materials are expensive retail to start with. Resin is very cheap by comparison. These wagons are for a garden railway and 50 are needed and 3D printing the masters is preferable to me sitting bent over for days on end making the masters and it's sunny. Personally, and it's just my opinion of course, 3D printing is a relatively quick and low cost way of doing one offs or say a couple. It's a wonderful thing though, wouldn't wan't to do 50! if your casting you don't have to worry about temperature stability or how well it takes paint. More than a few then on my budget I think about the design being one I can cast easily. So I make compromises. If two special highly detailed works of art are needed for a small layout then that's another mind set and probably best to get some good kits, which is probably why good kits are pricey. These are designed to be simple to assemble, you end up with thick Lima like brake levers and the end straps don't go over the buffer beams etc because that makes one sided casting a breeze, walls are over thick for the same reason. Bubbles are always problem and a some parts get thrown away, I don't bother filling them when the parts can be recast for pennys but you could, if you wanted too. If I'm left alone (a rare thing!) I can cast about three an hour and make them up in about another hour. I'm trying to perfect bulk weathering as well but I've never been a painter (I haven't budgeted for the cost of salt which seems to get magically filled up when its empty anyway). The lettering stencil leaves over spray but it's quick and you heavily weather over the bad bits.

The CAD side I find very very time consuming, probably 90% of the work. I'm working on a BR vent now, done the underframe, just the body to finish.

 

I'm running out of decent drawing pins though, for buffers, I have to sort through the ones from pound land, not many of them are round. Suffice to say, these are quite low cost wagons and casting from masters is, in my honest opinion, the way to do it. (I am quite tight, ask the wife!).

 

Any way, there you go.

 

Tom

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...