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Boxhorn Lane


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Just to address a couple of points from the Gnatterbox thread.

 

......

I'm not sure what he means about bolting together/leaving gaps?

 

Adding carrying handles and such is left to the user.

 

.......

I'm thinking they were refering to being able to carry them by the frame of the box, so perhaps some cut out hand holds on the ends would be suitable(?), just a thought.

 

Edit: Regarding gaps, some members use bridging pieces between boxes, but I don't see that as being any different.

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Hi Steve what a great idea I wish you every success the size you have chosen of 36 x 15 suits my need very well I would like 1 when you are ready to go to market. Any idea of timing yet?

 

Hopefully won't be too long now...

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If the layout board has ends, there is no need for the FY board to have fully boarded ends - either just an  outside frame or a full height but only partial width ( an inch or two ) to provide support for the backboard.

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Two of the 3 ft modules end to end would make for a compact layout with two viewing scenes. If one scene was more shallow (with an artificial back) the fiddle yard could be behind it, and the front fascias would remove the need to make an angled, or angular back scene. Or, one fascia could be blanked off inside to make a very neat display to describe the layout.

 

Do the ends have holes which match at each end, to let the purchaser fit dowels for alignment?

 

- Richard.

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Just looking through your Apagele thread made me wonder if the module for the fiddle yard is reversable.

By that I mean, can it face backwards for the exhibition people, & forwards for the home user(?).

You may find this useful.

http://littorail76.chez.com/modu3000.htm

It's in French but I think the details make it fairly self evident. This is a modular proscenium diorama system designed by the Littorail76 club in Dieppe.  I've seen these modules and the idea of a series of boxed "sets" does work far better than the usual open type where different scenes are simply butted together. They use a short 400mm long reversed box to separate each scene and there are options for when a longer scene such as a station is needed.

 

I think the lower height of the Boxhorn module should make it more transportable than the rather tall Dieppe design though I think I'd prefer their length of 1metre. For track planning in 00/H0 the extra few inches does seem to make things quite a lot easier. The wider Boxhorn width of sixteen inches also seems more useful for a practical layout.

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I like this concept. Any more news on the sizes available and pricing?

 

I have been looking at Tim's laser cut baseboards for a project. But either have to buy 6x 3' x 1' boards or 2x 4' x 3' boards, and scale the track plan up for the latter!

 

I prefer birch ply to MDF. MDF is a bit of a false economy to my mind (from past experience) because it can warp if it gets damp or disintegrate!

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I suggest that if there was such a thing as an industry standard CAD/Cut file format that one could take to, say, a boat yard or furniture factory using laser cutting, there would be good cause for a downloadable programme or series of programmes in the way that John Wiffen can send Building files anywhere on earth.

 

Think.....

 

I want a 'box' file...[see what I did there, teehee...]

 

I browse the online file catalogue and send off the Scottish Laughing Water tokens [money]

 

I receive a download and put it on a USB stick...

 

I take the USB stick to a laser cutting company and Robert is your father's brother!

 

 

Doug

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Thanks David, our ideas run more similar than you think, I was thinking about adding a couple of roads with OHL on this one (a la Dysearth Road) as I keep finding it hard to resist reasonably priced Dapol 86s!

 

not sure what kind of protection we could have on the design, or for its value whether it would be worth it. Will look into it, unless anyone has any off the shelf advice? 

It is some time since I was into patents and registered designs but from what I can see the best you could possibly get is a registered design. Basically you are making a quick assembly display case much the same as many others. If you think there is something it it worth patenting then see a specialist, but that costs real money.

 

Unless you have aspirations to compete with Ikea then specialising towards the model railway fraternity will probably be you best bet. Obviously it is laser cut which does permit a good bepoke element so best to utilise that.

 

Good luck but the cost of lazer cutters is faling, 3D printing is about to take off. Actually a good time to be a small manufacturing specialist. Selling the plans to those with access to a machine is another option. I think this is what they call the 'knowledge industry'.

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A minor point when making something to sell. Make sure that there is no patent on any means of assembly that you are using. Remember James Watt invented the planet and sun system to get around the fact someone had a patent on the crank! Doubt if it was original enough to be patented but those were early days of patent law.

 

What you do not want is someone coming lawyered up after you have gone into production. Happened with a British company making sail boards. US company had a patent on the universal joint between mast and board. Happy ending, they lost. Turned out that a lad had actually fitted the device to an home made board sailed in Poole Harbour. There was a film and a witness. UK patent law requires no prior published data on the patent before patenting (why the crank patent scam would not work today). Some countries though, and I think the US is one, generally work on first patent. Obviously lawyers thought that one up.

 

Back to railways, Frank Hornby protected his Meccano patents vigourously around the world while they still valid.

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