Black track

[Steve Viney]

I have created a 'dirty' area of my layout where there is a lot of coal and grime.  I want locos to be able to run there but clean track surfaces are obviously going to spoil the effect.

 

Can anyone suggest a way of dirtying the track but still leave it able to provide current to the locos?

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

[HLT 0109]

I shall be interested if you get any positive suggestions but, if the lines were at all busy, the tops of the rails would surely be shiny and clean.?

 

Harold.

[hornbyandbf3fan]

Graphite as it conducts electricity?

[HLT 0109]

It'll produce wheelslip

[Dave Scott]

It is probably too late now but SMP helped to solve this problem by producing copper/bronze  coloured rail which conducted but didnt look shiny. Had mine over 20 yr so dont know if still made

[melmerby]

You used to be able to get brass rail which could be chemically blackened.

 

Keith

[kandc_au]

As HLT 0109 said,

If it is grubby it is being used.

If it is being used the rail head would have a shine.

depending on location it would only take a couple of days for the rails to develop rust so really the option is a shine or rust!

 

Khris

[gordon s]

Tillig track is chemically treated and the rail is a dark brown colour.

[Ron Ron Ron]

As Gordon S says, Tillig Elite track is already darkened.

If you were originally contemplating using Peco Streamline, rather than something more authentic looking like C&L or SMP, then Tillig will be a better option than Peco.

 

The Tillig Elite track is Nickel Steel like Peco etc, but chemically darkened to look dull and brownish.

You can paint the sides of the rail if you wish, for even more rust or grime effect, but leave the tops clear and they will not be shiny.

 

Tillig Elite is Code 83, so you will need to height match to join up with Code 75 or 100, or find some of those (very rare in the UK) Code 83 to 100 track joiners.

 

This brand of track used to be only stocked by a small handful of retailers in the UK, but I see that Hattons are now selling it, which is great news except that they don't seem to be carrying the full extensive range of points and crossings.

 

Photos Here.

 

...and Here

 

...and Here

 

...and Here (if this link works?)

 

...and another one Here.

 

RMweb topic here with photos.

.

.

[buffalo]

Surely chemical blackening is the answer though, as others have said, railheads should remain bright. Birchwood Casey "Super Blue is best for steel rail and their "Brass Black" will turn nickel silver a dark brown. Many sources including Eileens. C&L also do separate steel, brass and nickel blackeners by Carr's.

 

A search on here will find examples, e.g. here.

 

Use these products carefully. Read instructions and always wear rubber gloves when applying.

 

Nick

[Steve Viney]

Thanks for all your replies.  It would appear that several possible solutions may have some drawbacks. 

Rather than risk anything I think the best solution is to leave the track alone apart from dirtying as much as possible and leaving enough 'shine'

on the top to enable the wheels to pick up the current.

 

However, as the section of track in question is in a siding, it is rare that a loco venture that far.

 

Thanks though for the time and effort you have given to my question.

 

Steve