Penlan Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Has anybody assembled any of the LBSC Ballast Wagons (Dumb buffered, long and short wheelbase), Chatham Kits, now distributed by Roxey Mouldings ?I have a couple and should really get them made up, so interested if anyone else here has completed these (simple) kits.No, I have not switched allegiance from the LNWR, but thought they might find a place as just non-descript stock on my layout... See http://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/product/165/4f09-lbscr-short-wheelbase-ballast-wagon/ and http://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/product/166/4f10-lbscr-long-wheelbase-ballast-wagon/ PS - These are the upgraded kits with working dumb buffers... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 I built some of their PO coal wagon kits. I found that the upgraded etched floor is too long and has the wheelbase extended by 6" more than it should be. I don't know if the same applies to these but it pays to be careful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeandnel Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 I built a number of Chatham Kits dumb buffered Ballast Wagons some years ago when they were still Chatham Kits and was very pleased with the end result. I do, however, agree with Gareth regarding the upgraded kits having small errors Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
burgundy Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Penlan You have a PM with a copy of the instructions. As others have indicated, the etchings are standard parts from the Roxey range and should be taken as a polite suggestion. Best wishes Eric Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 Many thanks, I will double check floor, I too have others from the original range, but it's so long since I've built any, I don't recall doing them. This is one of them :- Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 I built one of the short wheelbase ones a handful of years ago and found the solebars needed an awful lot of thinning in the relevant areas if the axleguards (Can't call them W irons as they aren't w's!) are to fit between them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 ..... the solebars needed an awful lot of thinning in the relevant areas if the (supplied, etched) axleguards..... are to fit between them. Assembling the white metal parts gives 23.3mm between the inside faces of the solebars. the 'W' iron etches are 24.25mm wide, so at least 0.5mm needs to be removed from behind the each solebar - the solebars are approx., 1.4mm thick to start with, and their outside faces are not flat, so not so easy to file the metal away on the back. It's good to know this whilst all the parts are fully accessible. As stated above, somewhere, there's a few mould markings to be removed too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
burgundy Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Assembling the white metal parts gives 23.3mm between the inside faces of the solebars. the 'W' iron etches are 24.25mm wide, so at least 0.5mm needs to be removed from behind the each solebar - the solebars are approx., 1.4mm thick to start with, and their outside faces are not flat, so not so easy to file the metal away on the back. but merely one of those interesting challenges! My ballast rake with a load of chalk spoil. Best wishes Eric Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 I'm not up for many challenges at present, trying to wind down from an eventful few months,..... Still I've got a lot of white metal dust.... and if the short wheel base wagon goes together easier than the long.... ....then I will stick with the short wheel bases ones. Nice rake in a nice setting Burgundy, thank you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium corneliuslundie Posted March 4, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 4, 2015 1.4mm for the solebars seems about right, as it is not much more than 5in. I have a sense of deja vu! The joys of old wagons before anything was standardised by the RCH. Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 Burgandy,A question.... The etched brake ratchet, looking at the drawing with the kit, I get the impression that 'A' is 'bolted' to the edge of the floor, and 'B' is fixed to the outside edge of the solebar - at 1:1 scale. They can't be much lower as the axle box protrudes more than enough to stop the lever going down beyond the top of the axle box. On the assumption the above is a correct observation, what have you done to secure the etch?I'm thinking a tiny hole at the top of the etch at 'A' and pin through into the edge of the floor plank, but my eyesight is not to clever for brief dabs of low melt solder onto the solebar face (after tinning the back of the etch). to attach 'B'.Otherwise we are there, more or less, the next ballast wagon will be a lot easier to assemble, and more accurate. Your guidance would be much appreciated. Sandy Croall - West Cornwall. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 Next job, 5 link couplings... as per the 'Fenton Acid' wagon above. Subject to eyesight.. There is a certain Irony in this, the layout has been on the exhibition circuit for 25 years, now it's retired, I'm doing all those little jobs that need doing, long ago.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
burgundy Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 A question.... The etched brake ratchet, looking at the drawing with the kit, I get the impression that 'A' is 'bolted' to the edge of the floor, and 'B' is fixed to the outside edge of the solebar - at 1:1 scale. Sandy I am afraid that mine were built in Woodham Wagon Works days, before the etched bits were added, and they have cast white metal break gear. However, the attached photos of the originals may help to show what is intended. I hope this helps. Best wishes Eric Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 That is very useful, many thanks. Looks like they only have the 3 link couplings, I thought they might have been early enough for five. Those wheel flanges are thin, very thin, I think I have some PC S4 wheels somewhere that would look similar. Anyway as I'm not replicating LBSC stock, I can allow myself some lee way on the detailing.. I have a photo of a land slip in North Wales in the 1890's, where half the ballast wagons are from private owners, the rest are LNWR, though different Divisions. So there's a precedent. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 I've come down with a heavy cold and appalling vision, but managed to get a couple of the short wheelbase ballast wagons into red primer - I don't have any grey at home and cars in for it's MoT today.These are very small wagons, hardly any ballast can be carried at all. And with such a short wheelbase, there's no need to compensate or spring. The split spoke wheels are some old 'PC Models' EM gauge wheels from long ago. I've always liked their profile - looking through them. Not sure what's happened to the extreme right axlebox on the ballast wagons, will investigate later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 The wheel is off, I just checked, it's the shadow of the axlebox that makes it look like the wheel is off, the wheel is sitting on the rail, honestly. The layout facia board lighting is about 9" in front of the wagon, but 2' above, thus the shadow. I normally try to take photo's without any flash. Right, time for Lidl's Glen something or the other, cheap single malt, with honey, hot water and some lemon juice, to try and clear the head, a few glasses should help..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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