76079 Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Good evening all I have been away from modelling for a good number of years (Apart from the occasional purchase that sits on the shelf not doing much) I have finally got time, space and a tiny amount of disposable income and have laid the foundations of a small shunters only layout. Part of this layout is a small 2 road shed area with a pit on one road and plain line on the other. I want to create a concrete hardstanding for the whole area including shed apron. However being at least 10 years out of touch not sure of the best way to go about it. I do know im reluctant to use filler because ill make an almighty mess. Im also not a completely authentic kind of person and im not looking to exhibit the layout so anything functional will do for me. any and all help appreciated Matt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HLT 0109 Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 I have quite a large shed area on my 00 layout with inlaid track and I tried a number of materials. I use code 100 track and tried 2mm thick styrene sheet as the paving which was then painted but I found it too thick to cut accurately. If the underside of each piece was chamfered so as not to sit on the chairs, it was just about the right height to enable the locos to maintain contact with the rails. I also tried cork but that tends to curl. Using 1mm thick styrene is easier but it needs two layers (with code 100 track). However, that enable the first layer to be cut narrow enough to sit inside the chairs, with the second layer cut wider to leave the minimum necessary clearance for wheel flanges. Fixing down may not be necessary but Evostik solvent-free works well enough if required. I have tried DAS modelling clay but found it difficult to get level. You could use granite sett pattern styrene. Harold. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 If you add check rails, getting infill would be easier. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamperman36 Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Shapeways manufacture a set of 3D printed parts which are available to purchase, however I cant remember who sells them. They were reviewed in one of the magazines recently. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidB-AU Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 You could try this method and simply paint it like concrete. The catch is finding the right mix to look like concrete. I haven't found one yet. Cheers David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philden Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Shapeways manufacture a set of 3D printed parts which are available to purchase, however I cant remember who sells them. They were reviewed in one of the magazines recently. The review is in the March 2015 issue of 'Model Rail'. The details are in the '3D printed models' link on this page: http://www.rue-d-etropal.com/ I haven't used them, I happen to have just read the magazine. Phil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted March 26, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 26, 2015 When I added the clay dries to my layout I included a "concrete" hard-standing area in the adjacent siding in prototypical fashion. I mixed some Woodland Scenics casting plaster (though any plaster-of-Paris type product will do) and carefully poured it between and almost to the tops of the running rails. Before it dried I used the edge of a sheet of Plasticard lowered against the inside edge of the running rails to create the groove through which the flanges must run. When the plaster was fully dried this was tidied up with very light needle-filing. I left my mix uncoloured as I required it white but to produce a concrete-like colour it would be possible to add a drop or two of Woodland's own "Concrete" colour paint to the plaster mix. This ensures it is evenly distributed through the plaster and not just painted on the surface from which it may chip and require repainting. Many such sidings do have a check-rail inside each running rail with the concrete between. It would be possible to represent this using the next code of track smaller than the running rails (so code 75 check rails for code 100 running rails) and super-gluing them to the sleeper base as close as possible to the running rail chairs. Beware. Limitations of scale can mean this looks a little odd as our rails are usually very much over-wide and often overly tall as well. It can also look very effective and realistic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdw7300 Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 HiI used filler mixed with a bit of black paint. If you're careful it's not too messy. I laid check rails and filled the gap between the two rails with some rope. See here I have then scored lines into the surface to imitate the concrete slabs and weathered it with washes of very weak black/ dirty black / sleep grime. See hereCheers <edit to add links> Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Sidelines Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Another vote here for sheet material - the cardboard from the back of A4 pads can be quite useful. I used two layers, the top layer shaped to hold the building in place. As Harold says - you may need to cut a chamfer where the sheets rest on the chairs. Regards Ray PS Spelling of chamfer corrected - put it down to 'spell check' and old eye sight Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted March 26, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 26, 2015 you may need to cut a chauffeur God bless spell check! "Chamfer" is surely what was intended. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium JDW Posted March 26, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 26, 2015 If you don't want to paint it, companies such as Scalescenes and ModelRailwayScenery.com produce downloadable concrete and tarmac style sheets which you can print yourself as much as you need, either on to paper and then stick to thicker card or print straight on to card. I've just used some as part of a diorama I'm making and the effect is probably better than I'd manage with paint, and a lot less messy too! On my layout, I used paper to make a template (a bit like making a rubbing) then cut that out and used it to cut out card to fill in between the rails. No chauffeurs were cut but I did use a narrower piece between the chairs with a wider piece on top, as above. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
76079 Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Many thanks for all your suggestions people some interesting stuff to think about Matt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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