Bosswasp Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 I have a DCC Deltic prototype (kit) but it won't start without a helping hand, once its going it seems ok, any solutions? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 If a DCC fitted mechanism doesn't start, but will run and keep going once given a push, then the no 1 suspect is that no track supply is reaching the decoder when it is stopped. The implication is that when it was last stopped it didn't do so under full control, as it slowed the decoder lost track supply; and which point it stopped and then will not restart. No 2 suspect is a poor connection between decoder and motor, that only maintains contact when the motor is rattling away. Usual list of places to check: track clean, pick up wheels clean, pick up wipers making full contact on all wheel backs and not contaminated with oil and fluff, internal connections from wipers to decoder good, connections from decoder to motor good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibushe Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 You could try giving it a nudge using CV2. But first find out what the default setting is of the decoder minimum & maximum. you are using. They are not all the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMJ Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 CXould it be the motor in your kit requires quite a lot of juice to get it going? If this is so I'd look at changing the chip for one which can take heavy load upon startup. If it has a metal body just look at the chip recommendation for locos similar to Wrenn. Or you might want to try adjusting the start voltage setting on the chip. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosswasp Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 Hi all just took loco to local shop and they reset the chip back to factory setting and it worked fine in the shop, got it back home and its the same as before????? could i have a faulty controller? (Hornby select) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Quite possibly the Select is the cause of the problem, even though it may not be faulty. The Select is not NMRA compliant and doesn't work well with certain makes of decoder. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosswasp Posted September 25, 2015 Author Share Posted September 25, 2015 I've decided to send the select back to Hornby for a firmware upgrade, I'm currently running ver'1.1 and the latest is 1.5, maybe this will sort it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 Doubt it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibushe Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 Now we know what controller you are using I agree with Smokebox. Its a known fact that the Select has its problems. One of which is the DCC signal is not smooth. Someone with more tech know how may be able to explain it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosswasp Posted September 28, 2015 Author Share Posted September 28, 2015 Any suggestions as to which controller I should get? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil S Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 You have just invited a whole host of favourites 8-) Consider your Preferences FIrst: Central Conrtrol Console for 'sit down'/ defined control position or a handheld controller on a lead or wireless ??? In my opinion, it is better to be able to walk around, perhaps to clear a fault, whilst still having control in your hand ... whether by a wireless unit, or perhaps 1 of several cables handsets spread around the layout. Consoles: Marklin Central Controller (Mfx and DCC!), ESU Console (similar capabilities) Hornby Elite, ZTC-611, Digitrax etc... Base Units: Lenz, Roco/Fleischmann Z21, z21, and 10764 Amplifier (sold with Multimaus), ..to use with (eg Expressnet) handsets... Handhelds: Lenz, Roco/Fleischmann, NCE etc etc ... divide them into those having informative text / graphic displays, Locos AND accessories, or not Knob, Slider or Push Button speed control. Single-handed usability Expressnet Protocol or CAN bus or LAN ... differing families of CONTROLLER communication. Personally I use a lot of Roco Multimaus Handsets (and also the MultimausPro wireless version - now superceded by using a phone with the Z21) It uses a Centre-Off Knob Speed Control The STOP button is programmable as to whether it stops that loco, all trains, with track power on, or removes track power. When more than 1 Multimaus is in use, it is easy to move from one controller to the other. It has a useful 'Library' mode which can rmember 64 locos by name (5 characters) - independant and copyable between handsets. It operates locos and accessories simultaneously. it controls Function 1-21 Its capabilities can be LOCKED to help prevent children changing settings It has a clear graphic display (point position) and text messages It uses Expressnet Protocol - so can be plugged into Roco, Lenz, Hornby and other systems It is available 'broken from starter sets' for about 65GBP including power supply and the 10764 amplifier Some note that, in its default configuration, it does not 'read back' CV values when programming - this is not needed anyway, and slows programming! When used in the Z21 or MultiCentralePro it will read back. Alternatively buy a Sprog3 for your computer-linked programming. GO TO either the Roco.cc site and search n Multimaus to download a 'simulator' to try it, or the Z21 website to read what they can offer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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