brossard Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 I'm surprised no-one has weighed in on this, I'm sure, simple question. Surely someone has removed the suppression. Anyway, further examination tells me that the rectangular components are surface mount capacitors. There are 3 green wires, two of which are connected in parallel with the green thingies (what the heck are they anyway?) and one seems to be soldered to the motor casing (ground?). I'm pretty sure I can snip these three green wires, but does the other board need to go as well? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 OK so today I removed the capacitor board but left the green thingie board in place. I resolved my lack of sound issue - one connection was bad, probably from when I stuffed the speaker into the boiler. I also think one wheel was out of quarter so I remedied that by removing the wheelset and adjusting. The middle crankpin came out again and I discovered that it was a tight fit to the rods so I reamed the holes on both rods slightly. I think binding was what caused the pin to back out. After all that things seem to run smoothly but the motor is still noisy. Is there something else I should do? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orford Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Hello All, I have a different problem with the Terrier - but as this also relates to a factory sound-fitted loco, actually in the GWR 'Portishead' livery - and being a bit at my wits end I wonder whether anyone else has a similar experience, or whether anyone here can offer help? My lovely wife bought me this model for Christmas - what a great present...or so we both thought a few weeks ago It came from a well-known discount retailer in the north west but on Christmas day I was extremely disappointed to find that it would not run over anything other than perfect, straight, level plain track. At every turnout, curve, or anything less than perfect track it just instantly stopped dead. Investigation (and I have been modelling in all scales for 47 years, so have a little experience), revealed that the centre 'compensated' or 'floating' wheel set worked perfectly on the left hand (facing) side of the loco, being free to move up and down slightly as intended...and sat perfectly on the track. However on the right hand side, the centre wheel appeared to be 'jammed' in the 'down' or 'low' position. Being thus lower than the front and rear wheels on this side, this meant that it was impossible for all wheels on this side of the loco to sit properly on the track. I also caused the loco to 'rock' to a significant degree when on the rails. The extent of this was that if you pressed lightly on the rear corner of the loco, the front wheel on the opposite side lifted a full 1.5 - 2.0mm off the track......hence the running problems. Anyway, I reported this to the retailer who to their credit, replaced the model without question and the replacement arrived just after New Year. This was exciting for all of two minutes, when I found that the replacement loco had exactly the same problem - except worse. In addition, the replacement also had a noticeable bind in the mechanism, two of the four body-to-chassis fixing screws were hanging out and one of the four screws was completely missing. There was also a loose buffer in the box, although that in itself is not too much of a problem. In addition, both locos had bits of paint missing from the wheels generally. Nothing huge but enough to be annoying. Again however, to their credit, the retailer took the replacement loco back, this time for full credit. I NEED a Dapol Terrier in this livery for a specific purpose on my layout but after this experience I really worried about re-ordering. My wife is also pretty distraught, having forked out £340+ for a Christmas present for me which was frankly, useless. My layout is of the 'shunting' type, so one thing I do need is reliable running - at slow speeds. I thought the Terrier would fulfil this requirement. I (and my wife) am thinking seriously of now ordering a sound-fitted Terrier in GWR 'Portishead' livery direct from Dapol (where the list price is a full £70.00 more than she paid originally) but to be perfectly honest I am now more than a bit scared to do so, in case the same thing or something similar happens for a third time. ie - Are they all like this? Is it a fault with the batch, or all in this particular livery? .........you see where I'm coming from. The cost is a significant one to us and maybe I'm just not thinking straight. But in view of this experience I am extremely nervous about getting another. I thought that this was a nice loco and absolutely perfect for the layout. What really worries me is that both locos had exactly the same - unusual - fault......which either suggests they may all have similar problems, or means that I have been particularly unlucky. Whilst I can accept any one loco might have a problem, I do begin to worry when the replacement has exactly the same fault. I suppose what I am looking for here is reassurance from anyone who has a factory sound fitted Terrier that there are actually good ones out there. Or any other advice regarding this model? Any comments, particularly from those with similar Terries, would be very much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ray H Posted January 8, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 8, 2018 Could you ask the retailer to check any model they propose to send before they despatch it? After all it works out cheaper for them if they don;t have to keep paying your return postage costs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orford Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 (edited) Nope - They're box shifters. Not interested in checking stuff. Besides - they only had two in stock and they are the two I sent back. Edited January 8, 2018 by orford Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 (edited) I just checked the soundfile (ZS019) function list at Digitrains. Not by Paul as I thought. I was a bit puzzled that the list doesn't include "fireman shovelling". Is there a function further on that does this? If not it's a pity since the very nice firebox glow won't be available. John Edit: I've answered my question - F13. It would be good to have a comprehensive list of functions. The blurb at Digitrains only goes to F11. Edited January 14, 2018 by brossard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeg Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 I just checked the soundfile (ZS019) function list at Digitrains. Not by Paul as I thought. I was a bit puzzled that the list doesn't include "fireman shovelling". Is there a function further on that does this? If not it's a pity since the very nice firebox glow won't be available. John Edit: I've answered my question - F13. It would be good to have a comprehensive list of functions. The blurb at Digitrains only goes to F11. My list from Digitrans goes upto F28 so I think you have a page missing! mike g Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) I'm not surprised Mike. I can't recall getting a list from them with my decoder. I think I'll ask them to email it to me. John Jeremy responded with his usual alacrity and I now have a list of functions - only goes to F19 though. Edited January 15, 2018 by brossard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orford Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 Slightly off-piste: Does anyone know how easy or otherwise it is to get the cab off (and back onto) the O gauge Terrier? The walls I can live with but I simply HAVE to do something with a paint brush to that bright yellow cab floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ray H Posted January 26, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 26, 2018 There are four screws - the two outermost at each end - that release the body from the chassis (and I believe you also have to pull the coupling hook out as well). All being well - postman permitting - a colleague maybe fitting a decoder to his this afternoon. I'll try to have a look to see how access is gained to the inside of the cab which presumably some folk may be what to do in order to fit a crew. I'll report back later (although it may not be until tomorrow). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 (edited) I tried to get the cab off. No screws holding it that I could see. I gave the thing some tugs but gave up being fearful that something would break. I sloshed some black enamel wash into the cab which tones things down somewhat. I had already installed the speaker and stay alive so everything is a bit awkward. You can remove the firebox LED easily - it just pulls out. With the body separate from the chassis you might manage to get things apart. John Edited January 26, 2018 by brossard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ray H Posted January 26, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 26, 2018 The decoder fitting this afternoon has thwarted by the absence of my colleague (and his loco). I'll keep my fingers crossed for next Friday and report back when I can. Apologies for the delay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackmoor_vale Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 (edited) See Edit 2 Ray, the spare pads are for the speaker connection. John Here a picture of the two soldering pads for speaker connection (green arrows, red circle). Which way round, is not important. Plus and minus are same. Be sure, that the speaker have the right electrical impedance, 4 ohms for ESU and 8 ohms for Zimo sound decoders. It exists some versions of the 7mm Terrier with a black printed circuit board, the pads are the same. Greetings; Torsten Edited January 26, 2018 by blackmoor_vale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orford Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 I tried to get the cab off. No screws holding it that I could see. I gave the thing some tugs but gave up being fearful that something would break. I sloshed some black enamel wash into the cab which tones things down somewhat. I had already installed the speaker and stay alive so everything is a bit awkward. You can remove the firebox LED easily - it just pulls out. With the body separate from the chassis you might manage to get things apart. John I eventually chickened out and repainted the cab floor using a small brush VERY carefully through the cab openings either side. Installed a crew too using tweezers through the same side openings. Seems the cab is actually glued to the footplate. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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