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I have been trying to run a Portescap RG4 with DCC, using a Zimo MX645 sound decoder (which I use in ALL my locos with absolutely no problems). I use NCE PowerCab handsets. The loco itself has a very free running chassis in both directions on DC or without motor and gears installed (ie pushed by hand). However, whilst the Portescap/DCC setup works OK and is quiet, I find that in reverse I need precisely TWICE the speed setting on the handset to get the same loco speed as when running forwards. ie. If a speed setting of 40 steps in the forwards direction gives the required loco speed - I need a speed setting of 80 when running in reverse, to get the same loco speed. This is irritating to say the least. Anyone have any ideas why this should be so, or what to do about it? (incidentally, on 'DC' the Portescap runs equally well in both directions at the same speed step settings....This is ONLY happening when on DCC. Likewise, the same decoder hooked up to a conventional motor (not the Potescap) also then behaves perfectly). ???

This is to say the least a bit long in the tooth now - but I finally got it sorted by modifying the original kit parts .....and it's up and running -

Hi Paul. You just want to hear your sound, don't you? Don't blame you for that - it's a good one (as usual)! Yes, I will do a video as soon as I can so keep watching.......Don

Here is my Manning Wardle bringing the General Manager's private saloon into Mynydd Mawr works. One of, if not THE best running RTR models I have ever purchased. DCC & sound of course. This began life as a black one.

I've heard that up at Mynydd Mawr brick works in north Wales, there is a (noisy) green one! Unfortunately, I'm going away tomorrow, so weathering is going to have to wait until I get back from my holidays in a week's time. I'm also not fitting the cab steps until everything else is done as they appear rather fragile...although I'm sure they will be absolutely fine once I stop handling the thing. NEW PICTURES OF FINISHED (WEATHERED) LOCO NOW POSTED ON NEXT PAGE..............................

It does - although it is the Digitrains take on it, rather than the EDM Models version. Essentially the same sound file though. Personally I would prefer a much louder 'chuff' on an industrial loco. This one is fairly quiet even when turned up to full volume. A good 'bass-enhanced' speaker might help but room for it is limited.

Further to my previous comment, if you really MUST use an abrasive to clean your iron, then a simple track cleaning rubber, such as Peco (or preferably the finest Garryflex block) will do the job without causing too many problems. The re-tin the tip immediately and allow to cool.

I never cease to be astonished at the sheer number of locos some people own/have on their layouts. To operate any layout with some degree of realism (and surely that is what creating a model railway is all about), if you have 150 locos, then you should have around 1200 coaches and at least 5000 wagons, representing a reasonable prototype mix. I think from memory that it was the late, great, David Jenkinson who originally pointed this out - and he was right. Layouts look FAR better with an appropriate prototypical mix of locomotives and rolling stock. I am also often bemused by the number of people who say, both here and elsewhere on the net, "I can't possibly afford to chip them all". Yes you can. If you can afford to buy 150 locos in the first place, then you can afford to chip them. That's a bit like saying "I own a Rolls Royce - but can't afford to have it serviced!" In my experience if you want full sound, then DCC is the only sensible way to go. My last 3 layouts have all been DCC with full (Zimo, in my case) sound and I wouldn't dream of going back to the dark old days of DC now. My advice is to get rid of half the locos and use the money raised to convert the rest to DCC and sound and alter the layout as necessary. You will probably still be well in credit at the end of it and will have a far better operating experience, going forward. I did and in modelling terms it was by far the best decision I ever made.

It's the reliability of the pick ups which I am worried about. I once bought a Bachmann Class 03 shunter and had no end of trouble with it, which I put down to it having a short wheelbase. Even though I use live frog turnouts. In the end I had to run it with a permanently coupled match truck which also had pickups (see photo), after which it was very much better. Given that the Heljan Class 05 is presumably similar in size I am worried about getting the same problem.

I have never had the slightest problem with them - and I had well over 40 feet of Ratio fencing on my last layout. I just spray them very simply with Railmatch Sleeper Grime (enamel - rattle can from Howes) and then dry-brush over them when dry to add detail colour with various shades of Humbrol. For the record I NEVER use acrylic (and never will). Have used enamel for the last 45+ years and I'm certainly not changing now. To be fair I did try acrylic once (for all of about two hours) when it first appeared - and frankly couldn't get it to stick to ANYTHING. I never used it again. But I do think that the initial heading to this thread was both unfair to Ratio, who have been a main supporter of the hobby for decades - and a little out of order.

Does anyone own or run a Heljan 'OO/HO'(?) 0-6-0 diesel shunter of the kind shown in the picture (any livery)? I am trying to find out how reliable these are, particularly in terms of pick-up, general running quality, reliability, etc., before parting with my 'hard-earned'. I would be planning to run it on DCC. Any help with this would be very much appreciated. Thanks. Don Mason

I absolutely cannot believe the number of people here using abrasive methods, such as wire wool (Ugh) and even FILES (ARRRGH!) to try to clean their soldering iron bits. NEVER - EVER - EVER use anything abrasive to clean your soldering iron bits. It will kill them stone dead in nothing flat! Get yourself a little tin of purpose made soldering tip cleaner, such as those variously referenced above. All you need to do is dip your hot tip into it for a second or two and bingo! - nice shiny clean tip. I also find that a quick dip into a paste-based flux such as Fry's Powerflow works very well too. Big irons will oxidise more quickly as noted above. So have a dip prior to each and every use and as soon as you have finished the joints, give the iron another dip followed by a wipe with a damp cloth (baby wipes or 'wet-wipes' are excellent).

Here's mine in action on Mynydd Mawr /(which is still VERY incomplete, hence the 'uprooted' trees, etc). Turn up the sound!

It must be me - before posting my original enquiry I went to the HMRS web site to look for the info - and couldn't find it anywhere! Obviously everyone else can, so I'll put it down to age, stupidity or my state of health. But thanks again anyway everyone. - Don

Thanks guys. All I needed.

The worst compromise for me is the ridiculous amount of 'slop' between wheels and frames and wheels and track in supposedly fine scale commercially produced 'O' Gauge. It's ludicrous - and also utterly useless if you happen to use auto couplings in 'O'. I spend hours modifying O Gauge rolling stock to take it out so that rolling stock actually runs in a straight line, rather than 'crabbing' along the track. Usually something between 2mm and 3mm of slop has to be taken out. WHY do O Gauge manufacturers continue to perpetuate this ridiculous state of affairs? I suspect that it's a legacy of trying to make fine scale O run on coarse scale track, or vice-versa, which is never s good idea anyway and a quite outdated concept these days. Slaters, Dapol & Parkside are the worst offenders and I also find that the back-to-back also needs increasing slightly on all of them for really reliable running on Peco fine scale track. Conversely the best manufacturers in this respect are Minerva Models, who's vehicles need no modification at all.

Hi all, I recently bought a sheet of HMRS Methfix transfers for the first time in over 20 years - during which time I have completely forgotten the procedure for applying them. Of course, I then managed to inexplicably lose the instruction sheet which was included and as this sheet is O Gauge (and therefore expensive) I don't want to ruin them or mess them up. I know you have to mix water and meths but cannot recall the ratio - nor can I remember the setting times between stages. Can anyone please assist with Methfix fixing instructions ??? Thanks in anticipation. - Don Mason

I would personally use white spirit. It should remove the sticky residue almost instantly and provided you wipe it/dry it off fairly quickly, well before it has any ill-effects on the lining, etc. But it must be at your own risk as I cannot have any control over the application of it. Don't use methylated spirit though (the purple stuff) as that WILL remove lining, etc., if left to linger (although it's good for removing printed-on lettering and lining without damaging the underlying paint.

I didn't know that thanks. In the meantime, I have just received a message from DCC Concepts offering to look into this for me. So many thanks to them for that. Hopefully we can get it sorted. - Don

I would but I managed to lose his e-mail address and all of the 'contacts' on the web site now point to the Skipton UK address, where I don't know anybody. Unless things have changed Richard is in Oz ???

Hmm - That's a good idea to save soldering upside down. Thanks for the suggestion. I hadn't thought of it.

To be honest Graham - I have seriously considered doing exactly the same thing except that I am now 66 and have recently been diagnosed with heart failure - which makes working whilst lying on the floor and reaching up under the (permanently installed) baseboards to install them very awkward indeed ....especially as I understand Tortoise need soldered connections (not easy to do in those circumstances compared with just 'plug in' wiring to Cobalts). Also I have around £600.00 worth of these things in use which is a considerable sum to effectively condemn to the dustbin and replace. But if I have to I will.

Here's a few more notes in an attempt to clarify the situation: I originally purchased 24 Cobalts (2 x 12 packs). 12 of these soon developed faults soon after purchase (mainly 'clicking' as per the video) and these were all completely replaced by DCC Concepts in Australia without question. 5 years later, these 12 all remain perfectly good. Within a year, most of the other 12 originals developed similar problems and these (I think 8 from memory) were sent back to DCC Concepts in Australia. This time, they did not replace them - but 'refurbished' them and returned them to me, marked 'good'. Some of these are also now fine - but 4 of these have started clicking again. About 2 years after the original purchase I bought 6 more (6-pack). These were also fine...and remain so. So the faulty ones now are three of the four remaining originals which never went back for attention - and 4 of the refurbished ones. So seven now faulty in total. Hope that clarifies the situation a little better. I am personally convinced that there was some inherent fault in the early production - because ALL of the faults are/were with the original 24 purchased. 'Replacements' and subsequent additional purchases are fine. Those which are still playing up are either remaining originals or refurbished units. I am unsure why the second batch returned to DCC Concepts were refurbished and not simply replaced like the first. Because I think that would have solved it and saved me years of subsequent hassle with them.

Steve - Having used 30 of these things over the last 6 years or so I do know that they are properly adjusted and am fully aware of the purpose of the fulcum bar. It's definitely not anything to do with that. These things seem to start clicking at apparent random and with no warning. Sometimes after performing perfectly for years and sometimes almost from 'day one'. I even have some which stopped clicking and behaved perfectly again - and then resumed clicking without warning. I have others which have suddenly started to throw exceedingly slowly - like taking a full 60 seconds or more to throw - whilst others on the same circuit continue to work perfectly. Another mystery. I would reiterate at this point what I said in my original question - These are all from the very batch of Cobalts which DCC Concepts made, when they were first introduced. I have 6 more of them bought (and presumably therefore manufactured) made a year or two later and have no problems whatsoever with any of those ones. Neither do I have problems with the 12 from the original purchase which DCC Concepts replaced completely under warranty - without question..........I am only having these problems with 12 Cobalts which were later 'refurbished' by them (rather than being replaced), or those remaining few from the first batch which still remain in original condition. This suggests to me that problems with the initial batches were subsequently sorted - but I still can't afford to replace the 12 or so I still have and which are the ones giving the most problems.

This particular one is one which went back to Oz and which was 'refurbished'....although I have others which click which are still in original (ie unrefurbished) condition. The power pack is a regulated pure DC power pack and is one personally recommended to me by Richard Johnson of DCC Concepts when these problems originally surfaced some 5-6 years ago. I have no idea of the make now but I do recall that it was pretty expensive compared to your average 'wall-wart'. It has separate little plugs which go into the side to change the output voltage. Here's a few pictures.