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Triang TT Technical advice


Marakas
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The 9F is also coming along nicely. The home made smoke deflectors have had their handrails and beading soldered on, a tender filler and dome turned up on the lathe (no drawings just guess work), AND, a Tri-ang Brit tender base was obtained which saves making one. The whole lot now in grey getting ready for the next warm day to be sprayed black. I did decide to cut the handrails off as parts were broken so it will have separate wire ones fitted.

 

Garry

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A little taster of things to come. The photos are actually quite cruel being the size they are. There are a few watermarks around the cabside numbers which will hopefully disappear after varnishing (even the water had not dried when I took this). The smokebox was a pain in the rear putting the numbers on individually. At a 9F's supposed maximum of 90mph these issues should not be seen lol.

 

Garry

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Someone recently was kind enough to give me a Tri-ang Prairie body, all that was missing was one of the smokebox stays which would be easy enough to make. As I have 3 Prairie's I thought I would repaint this one into BR lined green livery to use on one of the others chassis's. I have run out of proper corners for the lining so each corner had to be touched in by hand, unfortunately due to the thinness of lines/eyesight etc it is not as neat as it should be but will do. As they were no numberplates available I just used waterslide transfers for the smokebox and cab sides. Unfortunately I did forgot to make a new stay before varnishing so that will now be made later (if I remember) but I am very grateful for being given it in the first place.

Note the green is actually a darker shade than here which is lighter due to the flash.

 

Garry

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When I bought the 2 14xx locos there was also a 97xx whitemetal set of parts that had been assembled and taken apart, a couple of parts were broken but I have put it together to what is seen here. The dome was missing so I cut one off a scrap Jinty body. With no info etc I don't know if there was another front buffer beam as the chassis one looks wrong as it is so I may make another one day that will fit in front of this one. The smokebox number is made from Fox transfers on a thin piece of brass. I know the handrails I use are a little oversize but there are not as "breakable/bendable" as more scale ones.

 

Garry

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I have now got the BR Standard 5 painted and lined in BR green. I still need to source a few other parts for the chassis though. I am undecided as the the finish whether I leave it as ex works in gloss or go for the usual satin look. I may do a combination but for now this will do. The smokebox number is again Fox transfers on a piece of brass, its position is higher than it should be due to the castings shape. The handrail should be higher allowing the numberplate to be lower with the hinges closer together. It did come minus the front buffer beam so a brass one was made, it does not look as bad as it shows here angle wise.

 

After searching around for some reason the smaller a model becomes the gloss does not suit it as much as larger versions.

Garry

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Here is 92035 in all her glory. Practically in ex works condition with a shiny boiler and tender but a sooty/used chassis smokebox and roof etc. I have not decided whether to put a front coupling on or not. I know she could work tender first but I don't like couplings on the front of big engines. The tender one itself needs replacing as it was off when I got the chassis. She will get her first outing at the Goole show next month.

 

Garry

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The N7 is nearing completion now, here it is in works grey although since these were taken earlier it is now in black. The chimney is a Jinty one with a little removed from the centre to lower it, the dome is a Jinty one with the top filed flatter. Looking at these I should have filed more plastic of the bases before glueing in position but they don't appear to be too bad all in black. Those rear window bars are not too bad now either after priming in grey considering they are 0.5mm wide and 0.4mm thick, the coal rails are 1mm or less so a little prone to bending by my not so nimble fingers these days lol.  Hopefully finished before the weekend is over depending on how it gets lined out.

 

Garry

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  • 3 weeks later...

I now have a Q1 loco courtesy of Ebay. It was partly built and slightly twisted but I have managed to get it looking reasonable but cannot complain for the price of kit and chassis cheaper than a new kit. I think these locos are pure ugly but that ugliness is what then gives it the charm it has to have one. I had to build a false internal tender chassis which now that it works needs painting an a 3rd set of wheels fitted. The Boxpoks were missing but I will get some etched one day on another kit I do. The side view shows what looks like the smokebox number plate on an angle but it is not as bad as it looks. I think the remains of the glue make it appear so. Those numberplates are so fiddly to make and more so to fit lol.

 

Garry

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Here is a J11 recently varnished today completing the bodies (and loco chassis). The loco body did have a couple of places on each side where the cast handrail had not been cast so thin wire was soldered in the gaps and the solder ground off afterwards to leave it in place, it looks quite reasonable from a distance. I thought this was the easier option than removing the whole cast one especially around the front, I may paint it silver one day but not now. It is not too noticeable. As there were no loco to tender coupling parts I drilled and tapped the loco chassis to take a Castle one and added a piece to the tender sub assembly to couple up. This chassis also needs a centre set of wheels but I first need to see if I can turn down the treads giving a deeper flange which are smaller than the Jackson ones I usually use. The smokebox numbers were put directly onto the door as it was less hassle for my fingers, eyes and part size which these days are too good.  All I need now is to find my real coal to break some up for the tender.

 

Garry

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great topic, love the finish on the kits, very good work indeed. If you need some Triang bits just ask me before going to ebay as I have boxes and boes of spares and other parts, e.g. homemade A3 body, brit chassis, umpteen driving wheels, loads of body shells and other things. Just by coincidence i was working on a 14xx kit today.

 

Some of mine from a while ago

 

Hall from a castle
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Almost a 56XX from unknown starting point

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Hi, thanks for the comments. 

 

The 56xx looks to be from a K's whitemetal 61xx class 2-6-2. Originally designed for the Castle chassis with two whitemetal pony trucks.  Looks like the front footplate has been modified to remove the curve.

 

The Hall looks good and I was going to do one similar but managed to get a Hogwarts loco very cheap which saves some work although I will need to fit a Brit style chassis due to the correct shaped Belpare firebox used.

 

Sent you a PM.

 

Garry

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2 DMU's now finished and awaiting a good run (hopefully) at the Goole show on 25th March. Both pairs have been sprayed with Railmatch satin varnish but one can gave the lower finish and another can the different upper finish, at least the unsightly "rub/wear" marks have gone. The top set also had their roofs painted. Both power cars have front bogie pick-ups added and a little extra weight. I have a centre car (untouched by me) that matches close to the lower unit but I have lost my other centre car the day I resurrected my TT last Sept/Oct. I put it to one side and not seen it since (must be old age).  One set I bought second hand in the very early 1970's, the second set, with all the wear/rubbing on the body, I bought last year. Two photos show the before and after of one DMU body.

 

Garry

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Here is my English Electric type 3 Co-Co. The body is a one piece resin moulding bought off Ebay. I have used Tri-ang type 2 motor and trailing bogies for it but did have to do some work to make them fit. At least this one seems to go around Tri-ang small radius curves and the show in a couple of weeks will give me the proper yes or no on that score. The kit did come with whitemetal large buffer heads and proper shaped bogie frames but 1) large buffer heads can be a problem on Tri-ang curves so Tri-ang buffers are used, and 2), I was not prepared to start filing the bogie frames down to nearly nothing to fit the whitemetal castings. I am not that pedantic and it looks fine to me as it is. I will say it looks as if the body needs lowering but I shall look into that after the show. Once done I will fit the fuel tank moulding (resin I think).

 

Garry

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Resin bodied diesels for 3mm are good fun to try here is my current works in progress, the class 24 also obtained from ebay for very little money a few years ago.

 

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Not a triang mechanism but vintage BTTB extended to the correct wheelbase. Given the sophistication of central motor, all wheel pickup and drive it is a little surprising these came out of East Germany in the 60s. Even runs well after being extended and lubed with WD40.post-6952-0-61742000-1489661781_thumb.jpg

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