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Playing with Hornby Dublo 3 rail again


Jenny Emily
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You can't blame BR for that one. The valences were removed during the war.

There was a contemporary photo of an updated pre-war Dublo model modified and repainted in war-time black livery (In 'Meccano Magazine' IIRC). I wonder if it still exists.

 

BR did try blue, but decided GWR green was better. (I'll refrain from comment beyond that Garter blue did suit them well.)

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There were two blues used as far as I know on BR A4's. The standard one, ultramarine, similar to Gresley with W/B/W lining and a very deep purple on Walter K. Whigham with mixed traffic lining. I used to think the purple variation was ultramarine but according to RAL numbers it was the standard one as seen on my Duchess and Castle a few posts ago.

 

BR green was the best choice in my opinion, probably as that is how I saw them all im the old days.

 

Garry

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The posts about the TPO set have appeared at an opportune moment, as my mate has raised a query about his mail coach. The problem is that the activating lever on his mail coach strikes the platforms if placed on the track with the lever to one side and strikes certain point motors if  the lever faces the opposite side.

He's looked in the Hornby Dublo Book and found reference to a contemporary enquiry from an owner facing a similar problem. Hornby Dublo replied that he needs to check his track alignment as the lever is designed to clear the tops of point motors by 1/64".

Having sorted track alignment at our latest get together, we'd be reluctant to disturb things, especially as he currently doesn't need the TPO coach to be operational as regards pick up and set down of mail bags, he'd just like to be able to run it along with other HD coaching stock.

His first thought, but a rather drastic solution of simply sawing off the lever has been firmly discouraged, so now we need to find a way of temporarily if possible, removing the problematic lever (Tried to attach a copy photo, but got a size error which I can't resolve)

Looking at the pictures of the coach with body removed, I'm wondering if the best approach might be to remove the entire internal mechanism if this can be done in a relatively straightforward way.

Any guidance or polite suggestions will be appreciated.

Regards,

               John

Edited by Brit70053
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Hmmm,i don`t think it`s the coach that`s the problem.Over the years,the point base can distort slightly allowing the point motor assy. to bend up slightly,check that there is no rocking when placed on a level surface.The platforms seem fairly obvious,move the platforms away from the track slightly.

 

                                   Ray.

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Thanks for your input sagaguy, I don't think there is any fault, as such, with the coach itself, its what my mate wants to be able to do, combined with the age and design of the layout.

As I've posted previously, the layout has significant sentimental value to the owner and for that, as well as more practical reasons, changing the location or dimensions of the platforms is a none starter.

Envisioning the layout remotely, I can appreciate that its probably the case that the casings of certain point motors have distorted in such a fashion that the lever on the mail coach strikes them when passing. As a considerable amount of effort has gone into getting all the available locos to get round the entire layout successfully, there will be reluctance to disturb track work for the sake of one coach.

As I've said above, the owner is at the moment more interested in running the coach as a normal stock item than as an operational TPO, so its a hopefully reversible alteration to the coach mechanism we are looking for.

I'll be asked to do whatever is necessary to the coach when we next meet to work on or run the 3 rail layout, so it would be helpful to have ideas as to what may be possible in advance of that gathering which is yet to be arranged.

 

Regards,

 

John

 

Edit for clarification

Edited by Brit70053
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Thanks Gary, Golden Fleece 30, That had occurred to me, but not having the item to hand I didn't know if the metal is flexible or rigid and if bending it is a possibility.

A suggestion I will bear in mind.

 

Sagaguy, I agree with your opinion about the TPO set, but I think the situation arises from a lack of a suitable position to locate the lineside apparatus plus the absence of any mail bags to be dropped or collected. (I'm sure these will be available even if replicas, should they ever be required)

Not being my property, I'm just happy to be involved with the revival of this layout and stock and to do whatever I can to help.

 

Regards,

John

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Thanks Gary, Golden Fleece 30, That had occurred to me, but not having the item to hand I didn't know if the metal is flexible or rigid and if bending it is a possibility.

A suggestion I will bear in mind.

 

Sagaguy, I agree with your opinion about the TPO set, but I think the situation arises from a lack of a suitable position to locate the lineside apparatus plus the absence of any mail bags to be dropped or collected. (I'm sure these will be available even if replicas, should they ever be required)

Not being my property, I'm just happy to be involved with the revival of this layout and stock and to do whatever I can to help.

 

Regards,

John

 

I may be entirely wrong, but my recollection is that the lever in question was formed from plated steel formed into a U section.

 

My preference, if the model is to be non-operational, would be to remove the offending lever in such a way that it could be replaced if required; I cannot think that this would be impossible.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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I just looked at my mailcoach (2-rail version). The arm is steel, with a U-section. The bit that might be bent is inside a box thing.

The mounting is a big brass rivet with a spring above it.

What might be possible is tying a piece of thread or wire around the box to raise the arm -- tilt it upwards and it might clear. At ;least this won't damage the car.

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John, cctransuk, you are correct about the profile of the arm and I fully agree that the best resolution would be to temporarily remove the mechanism, or the relevant part of it so that it could be replaced in future. 

 

BR60103, you too describe the part very well and I don't think there'd be much relevant difference between the 2 and 3 rail versions in terms of this part of the mechanism.

Would you be able to post a photo so that others who may be able to offer me further advice can see what is in question please ?

 

I have attempted to attach the photo my mate sent with his enquiry, but despite having followed the re sizing routine on here, I keep getting the message that I'm  "not allowed to upload this type of file". I'm not very Tech minded, and really don't have time to pursue this issue further. 

 

Thank you both for your contributions.

 

           Regards,

 

                           John

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John, cctransuk, you are correct about the profile of the arm and I fully agree that the best resolution would be to temporarily remove the mechanism, or the relevant part of it so that it could be replaced in future. 

 

BR60103, you too describe the part very well and I don't think there'd be much relevant difference between the 2 and 3 rail versions in terms of this part of the mechanism.

Would you be able to post a photo so that others who may be able to offer me further advice can see what is in question please ?

 

I have attempted to attach the photo my mate sent with his enquiry, but despite having followed the re sizing routine on here, I keep getting the message that I'm  "not allowed to upload this type of file". I'm not very Tech minded, and really don't have time to pursue this issue further. 

 

Thank you both for your contributions.

 

           Regards,

 

                           John

What photo programme are you using?,you should save your pics as JPEGs & using the constrain proportions in your editor,resize to about 10cm wide which will automatically give you the height at 300DPI.This gives a perfectly sized pic for this forum.

 

                Hope this helps,Ray.

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Also you can use "Paint" which is part of the Windows set up.  All you need to do is click on resize then I go to pixels and put in a lower value and when you click the save icon the bottom of the photo will show what the file size is.  If too big then reduce the pixels even more.  It is quicker to do than to type this.

 

Garry

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I'm trying to use 'Image Editor' on this forum and following the instructions I gleaned from a relevant topic have attempted to reduce the image size to 800 x 600 pixels, while selecting JPEG format and a size less than 250KB.

 

Its after this stage that I get the "not allowed to upload this type of file" message.

 

I'll try the above suggestions later, thanks to you both once more..

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I'm trying to use 'Image Editor' on this forum and following the instructions I gleaned from a relevant topic have attempted to reduce the image size to 800 x 600 pixels, while selecting JPEG format and a size less than 250KB.

 

Its after this stage that I get the "not allowed to upload this type of file" message.

 

I'll try the above suggestions later, thanks to you both once more..

The only thing i can think of is that it is not being saved as a JPEG,there should be a drop down menu in save as.Click on JPEG & create a folder on your desktop labeled "web pics" or similar,then you always know where to find them!!!.

 

                        Ray.

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Thanks for trying to guide me through the re sizing Ray (sagaguy) I'm finding this rather puzzling as I've now tried using 'Paint' in Windows 10 and despite reducing the image to 800 x 600 pixels and definitely saving to my laptop as a jpeg, I'm still getting the "not allowed" message when I try to upload to RMWeb.

I've successfully uploaded quite a few images to accompany posts previously. The difference here may be that the original of the photo I want to post was taken by my friend and emailed to me as an attachment. I don't know if that could be the root of the problem I'm having, but I'm coming to the conclusion I've expended too much time on the photo aspect already.

If no one else can post a suitable photo, I'll just wait until I can examine the Mail coach and take forward the suggestions you and others have kindly made.

 

Regards,

 

John

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If this is W10, go to Photo Gallery on the Start menu.  On the left of the screen you will find a list of pictures.  Click on the one wanted and then Properties will appear on top, click on that and then Resize will then appear.  Pick the one that's suitable and go from there.  That's how my pictures get on here.

 

Brian.

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Thanks brianusa, yes I am using Windows 10, so what you suggest may well be the answer and I'll give it a go later.

 

In the meantime, thanks also to 60103 for posting a relevant photograph of the TPO set. The actuating lever is the metal arm protruding to the top side of the coach in the picture. It is mounted on the large brass rivet in the centre of the box like structure in the middle of the coach. A helical spring maintains its distance above the track.

 

I've started to consider whether some form of washer could be inserted near the base of the brass rivet to lift the level of the arm fractionally so that it might not strike the point motors

 

Regards,

 

               John

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The posts about the TPO set have appeared at an opportune moment, as my mate has raised a query about his mail coach. The problem is that the activating lever on his mail coach strikes the platforms if placed on the track with the lever to one side and strikes certain point motors if  the lever faces the opposite side.

He's looked in the Hornby Dublo Book and found reference to a contemporary enquiry from an owner facing a similar problem. Hornby Dublo replied that he needs to check his track alignment as the lever is designed to clear the tops of point motors by 1/64".

Having sorted track alignment at our latest get together, we'd be reluctant to disturb things, especially as he currently doesn't need the TPO coach to be operational as regards pick up and set down of mail bags, he'd just like to be able to run it along with other HD coaching stock.

His first thought, but a rather drastic solution of simply sawing off the lever has been firmly discouraged, so now we need to find a way of temporarily if possible, removing the problematic lever (Tried to attach a copy photo, but got a size error which I can't resolve)

Looking at the pictures of the coach with body removed, I'm wondering if the best approach might be to remove the entire internal mechanism if this can be done in a relatively straightforward way.

Any guidance or polite suggestions will be appreciated.

Regards,

               John

 

 

As suggested previously, the pickup could just be bent up slightly - it consists of a U section joined to a large flat washer. Alternatively, it is fixed inside by a nut, which can be simply removed releasing the pickup mechanism - care is required, as there is a large spring pressing the pickup down....

 

The only difference between 2 and 3 rail  versions is that 2 rail versions have wheelsets with one nylon and one zinc alloy wheel. The 2 rail ones are compatible with 3 rail but the reverse is obviously not the case. Later ones have plastic couplings.

Edited by Il Grifone
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Thanks for that information Il Grifone, looking at the photo posted by sagaguy post#187 I think I see the nut which retains the mechanism which you refer to. This looks as though it would be quite simple to remove - with care and paying particular attention to that spring.

 

Regards,

 

John

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post-11377-0-35356100-1471987131.jpg

 

Rather late in the day, a photo has uploaded. The actuation arm as previously described by several contributors. The spring is just visible on the brass rivet in the centre of the mounting.

 

Hallelujia.

 

John

 

Edit after successful upload confirmed, plus a typo

Edited by Brit70053
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John:

My suggestion is a thread around the box going under the arm so that it tilts up a bit. That might be enough.

 

Or wrap a piece of wire around the boss to lift the whole pickup arm.

 

I've never had the problem of it hitting point mechanisms - I think the clearance is rather more than the quoted 1/64". I always feel than the specified clearance of 1/32" (coincidentally the same as Kadee) between coupling 'tail' and railhead could do with being a tad more - say 1mm or even 1/16"

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Thanks to everyone who has responded to my appeal for suggestions, including the two latest from BR60103 and Il Grifone.

 

I'll let you know how things progress after there's been another get together. This hasn't even been properly discussed as yet, so please don't hold your collective breath for any update.

It will happen when it happens.

 

Regards,

                John

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