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My Layout and other projects.


Father Dougal

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Making progress on 20107 in a very shiny BR Blue.

It has come out ok so far. I will tone the gloss down a bit with weathering, but I will keep the weathering fairly light- mostly to mask any errors whilst painting.

 

Applying the Orange cantrail stripe was fun. Looks ok, but not 100% straight.

I need to order more transfers from Fox as I have run out. I will probably order fresh cans of paint too, as the ones I used here were getting on a bit.

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The buffer beams will not be red when I have finished.

 

I also need to visit the model shop and buy more acrylic paints as I have run out of Black, Grey, white and Rust.

Dougal.

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Just had a bit of a splurge! Hopefully I should soon be the proud owner of 2 VAA vans and 2 open wagons. I will probably leave the vans in Bauxite, but I am tempted to repaint into Red / Grey. We will see.

 

I have l also ordered a shed load (literally) of various transfers from Fox to finish all the models I built and never quite got around to applying transfers!

 

I also had an email to say that my ModelU figures are coming. I am really looking forward to these. I have 3 trackside workers on order.

 

All being well, in September I will have cleared all those little jobs so that in October I can begin chipping my analogue loco's.

 

Dougal

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Finished the class 20 repaint.

I want to remove the body shell of the class 33, but I can't figure out how it is done and I don't want to force anything.

It looks like there are 4 spots to prise the body off.

 

Can anyone shed any light please.

The class 20 was so much easier as it just had 4 screws.

Dougal

Edited by Father Dougal
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  • 2 weeks later...

A very busy morning on the layout.

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I have built a more modern diesel shed for the clay shunters.

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A few Cornish fishing boats have turned up as well.

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I have also decided to remodel the bagged clay building and build a clay dry instead with a small bagged clay facility. You can see the Pringles container in one of the photo's above with a few cardboard pieces to act as a mock up. I need to establish exactly where things can go before I start the build so that I can still get to wagons etc to couple and uncouple.

The dries at Parkanddillick look pretty cool. I hope to model a part of this.

 

It is only 3 weeks until I am half a century old. Mrs Doyle has bought a Polybulk wagon for me. This will look great at the clay dries. It is however, rather large.

Dougal.

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Whilst I wait for more pocket money from Mrs Doyle, I decided to start work on the 03 ready for fitting DCC sound.

The chassis came away very easily and I only lost one of the teeny weeny screws to the carpet monster.

 

The model is a Tower Brass 03 and painted in BR Blue.

 

It looks like I should be able to fit a decoder and speaker etc in the bonnet area or in the cab if there isn't room.

The bonnet space is 2.5 cm wide and 3cm deep.

 

I will be calling those nice people at digi trains soon to order the decoder, stay alive and speaker.

 

I understand Mr Klein of this Parish converted an 03 to sound as well. Any tips would be gratefully received.

 

I have no idea what the current draw is. Um..... I have a multi meter, but I can't figure out how to use it to measure current draw on DCC!

 

I looked up 03 diesels in Cornwall and I found that 3 were allocated to St. Blazey; D2127, D2129 & D2183.

D2129 lasted until 1981, the other 2 went by 1968.

 

I'm not sure yet if I will keep it BR Blue or repaint into an industrial livery.

 

I can't find any colour images of the 03's the only image I found was a black and white image and the 03 looks like it is in BR Green.

 

Can any one suggest a book or other resource for further research?

 

Regards,

Dougal.

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Any tips would be gratefully received.

 

 

 

Dougal,

 

Sound fitting is pretty straightforward. I fitted stay alive caps and cab light too. (Hornby Magazine Issue 60)

 

You will need a ZIMO MX645 decoder and 28mm HB speaker. There is a brand new version of the sound project (ActiveDrive SL Pro) but it's not yet on Digitrains website. Far better than the existing, (continous development) so ask for it especially.

 

Best regards,

 

Paul

 

 

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Edited by pauliebanger
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Dougal,

 

Sound fitting is pretty straightforward. I fitted stay alive caps and cab light too. (Hornby Magazine Issue 60)

 

You will need a ZIMO MX645 decoder and 28mm HB speaker. There is a brand new version of the sound project (ActiveDrive SL Pro) but it's not yet on Digitrains website. Far better than the existing, (continous development) so ask for it especially.

 

Best regards,

 

Paul

Thank you for the reply.That looks perfect.I will be placing an order this Thursday.

Dougal

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Just ordered my sound chip from DigiTrains. Apparently the new sound file for the 03 isn't ready yet, so I will have the current version.

 

I also decided to order a cab light. Apparently they have it all in stock, which should mean I can fit it fairly soon.

Next on the list, a suitable shunter figure, solder and flux.

Dougal

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Been busy finishing off the scenic section by the fiddle yard and clay siding. Once I have built the retaining wall I will post some piccies.

Today I ordered my first sound decoder from the nice people at DigiTrains. I am going to fit my class 129 first as this has loads of space. Hopefully it should be a staright forward installation.

I ordered an Amp meter- no idea how to use it, but apparently I need to learn!

Assuming I don't cock up my first attempt, I will begin fitting deoders to my fleet working from the biggest loco's down to the smallest as I gain confidence.

 

As I am a bit of a DCC novice, can anyone tell me if there is a universal CV for the volume setting and also for acceleration / deceleration or does it depend on the brand of decoder?

 

Thanks, D.

 

Acceleration and Deceleration or Inertia and Momentum are predefined by NMRA to be CV3 and CV4 respectively.

 

I strongly urge you to read the User Notes which will accompany your decoder before changing any CVs, including CV1, the address. You need to be sure that it works 'as delivered' before changing the to your taste and to judge how the model reacts to your control inputs with the standard set-up.

 

Sound projects usually have specific CVs 3 and 4 values to work with the sounds, so take care with these. Overall volume is brand specific, CV266 on ZIMO, but all my projects at Digitrains have volume control on CVs 27 (down) and 28 (up) so you should not need to change CV266. All in the User Notes and Functions List.

 

If you bought a Loksound, the overall volume CV is different.

 

Best regards,

 

Paul

Edited by pauliebanger
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Phew! Time for a rest now. I have spent the weekend building the clay dries. It is much larger than I thought, but I have the basic frame done now. I ran out of support beams. I can't do any more now until they arrive.

 

I will post an image once I have done a bit more.

 

My sound decoder arrived. It all fits neatly inside the nose of the loco. I purchased a few white LED's as well to use as a cab light.

 

This might sound a basic question, but could any one answer the following?

 

There is a white wire for function 0 and a blue wire for common return. I assume I use the two to wire in the LED?

 

Also, does it matter which wire I connect the resistor to?

Dougal

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  • 1 month later...

Hello!

I am feeling pretty pleased with myself this evening.

I have now fitted sound to my 03 shutter and today I fitted my 02 shutter.

 

I built the 02 several years ago. It never ran properly and it was really frustrating as I couldn't work out why.

This month I took the chassis apart, fitted a better quality motor, tidied up the pick ups and tidied up the weathering.

After that I purchased some really teeny LED's for directional lights and some lamps from ModelU.

I concluded that the previous poor running was due to using a cheap motor mounting, which I also hadn't built very well.

The 02 now purrs along at a crawl.

 

The sound chip and speaker are Zimo. I assume the stay alive is from Zimo too.

I will post a few pictures on Saturday.

The sound file and speed control is really good- on a par with my Fowler.

Douglas.

Edited by Father Dougal
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Hi 

 

Been following your interesting thread for awhile now. Must start my own but progress is slow.

Question, in your 02 shunter whose sound decoder, speaker, 'stay alive' and lighting items did you use and from who

and more importantly how difficult was it to install?

I've two I would like to convert to DCC but having never done one before am a little hesitant to dive in.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

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Hi

 

Been following your interesting thread for awhile now. Must start my own but progress is slow.

Question, in your 02 shunter whose sound decoder, speaker, 'stay alive' and lighting items did you use and from who

and more importantly how difficult was it to install?

I've two I would like to convert to DCC but having never done one before am a little hesitant to dive in.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

Hi Dave, sound fitting is pretty straightforward and the decoder comes with a little booklet to explain which colour wires do what. I buy mine from Digitrains.

If you ask nicely, they will usually wire up and test before they dispatch. All you have to do then is connect to the pick ups and motor.

 

Don't forget some heat shrink and take your time. Mine took me about 40 minutes, but this included the lights.

 

I have a PRMRP 02, which I built a while ago. This is brass construction and there is plenty of room for the speaker and decoder.

If you have a white metal 02 starter kit you might want to measure what space you have first and then call digitrains. (No connection, just a happy customer).

I used a MX645R sound decoder with an 02/ Janus file, plus a mini boxed speaker LS26x20xH 8mm (This fits easily in the nose). The stay alive was one they picked for me, it's a 86009 6-20 second stay alive. I usually phone to order rather than use the online shop.

I will try and take a few photos tomorrow.

Dougal

Edited by Father Dougal
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HI Dougal

 

Thanks for the information. I'll have to get one of them out of storage and have a quick measure!

They are both the 02 Starter kits, one I put together, the other was bought from a well known auction site, with a very poor paint job, the loco not the auction site.

This one's have it's paint removed and is now in the process of rebuilding/painting.

 

Thanks again

 

Dave

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Spent all weekend wiring up loads of lights for the clay sidings.

 

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The last shot is of Gary's bald head! At least he has some light now.

 

The 02 with her Gubbins exposed.

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And, the modelu lamps and the sub micro LEDs from Railroom electronics.

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Dougal

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A little more progress.

Yesterday I fitted directional head and tail lights to my 03. The Bedford Van is new too.

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I also made a cover for Gary as I worried he would get a wet head!

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And, I payed with my 02. Here she is just leaving the shed.

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Hi Dougal this looks really great, I took your advice and got some lights for my brewery layout.  I think I've figured out the power supply issues. Can I just ask do you have switches for individual lights or sections or are they just all on or off?  Great job, looks fantastic.

Cheers Tim

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Hi Dougal this looks really great, I took your advice and got some lights for my brewery layout.  I think I've figured out the power supply issues. Can I just ask do you have switches for individual lights or sections or are they just all on or off?  Great job, looks fantastic.

Cheers Tim

Hi,

I had 5 On/Off switches so I used these for individual control.

1. Yard and external building lights and fuel point.

2. Clay dry.

3. Bagged clay.

4. Diesel shed.

5. Mess hall.

 

I plan on building similar when I start illuminating the dock side and shops.

By the way. All my lights so far all come off a cheap starter controller. As they are all LEDs the current draw is really low.

Dougal

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