City of Bristol - 1903

[Devo63]

G'day all,

 

I fairly sure that this subject has been discussed in the past but I can’t seem to track down the posts.

 

One of the many projects I have on the go at the moment is a model of 3435 ‘City of Bristol’ in the original 1903 configuration using an old Kitmaster kit and Branchlines chassis and detail packs. I’ve made a list of the work required and would like advice on suitable suppliers of the parts required.

 

1                    Shorten smokebox -  how much to remove?

2                    Remove all handrails, safety valve and chimney

3                    Replacements for above – supplier?

4                    Remove above footplate sandboxes

5                    Fit early style square lamp brackets – supplier?

6                    Smokebox door combined lamp bracket & handrail knob

7                    Add splashers to bogie wheels (Branchlines pack)

8                    Remove strengthening plates from frames – any suggestions?   

9                    No cab side handrail fitted

 

I have a suitable replacement smokebox door but some of the fittings required, e.g. cast iron chimney and non top feed safety valve still need to be sourced. The early style lamp brackets and the combined bracket/knob for the front have stumped me at the moment. I will be using Gibson driving wheels which are my preferred type for outside framed locos.

 

Any suggestions on items I’ve missed or for the bits and pieces would be greatly appreciated. Please keep in mind that I live in the land of Oz and can only deal with manufactures who do international mail order.

 

Dave     

[richbrummitt]

I'm sure the BGS do the square lamp brackets sockets. They probably also do the combined socket/knob. I don't think you have to be a member to purchase.

[Darwinian]

Point 8

 

Assuming the chassis will still use the plastic loco frames. 

1 Support the frame moulding on a flat surface (Blu-tak or tape will help keep it still).

2 Using a chisel bladed knife (or a sharp chisel) a little wider than the frame plate ideally, carefully chisel off the rivet detail on the plates.

3 Using a scraping action and making sure the blade does not dig in at the ends (tilt) gradually scrape away the raised area.

4 Don't be tempted to rush this.

5 Once as level as you can reasonably get it finish off with fine wet and dry

6 Put on a coat of primer

7 Check for irregularities and fill as necessary

8 Repeat steps 3 to 7 until you go mad or decide it will have to do.

9 Replace rivet detail with little cubes of plasticard or rivet transfers.

 

It worked for me taking the cabside shutter off my Hornby 5205. 

 

 

Oh, and if the detail is on a brass etched frame I've no idea, that's why I didn't build an etched kit and used a plastic RTR one.

[Devo63]

Point 8

 

Assuming the chassis will still use the plastic loco frames. 

1 Support the frame moulding on a flat surface (Blu-tak or tape will help keep it still).

2 Using a chisel bladed knife (or a sharp chisel) a little wider than the frame plate ideally, carefully chisel off the rivet detail on the plates.

3 Using a scraping action and making sure the blade does not dig in at the ends (tilt) gradually scrape away the raised area.

4 Don't be tempted to rush this.

5 Once as level as you can reasonably get it finish off with fine wet and dry

6 Put on a coat of primer

7 Check for irregularities and fill as necessary

8 Repeat steps 3 to 7 until you go mad or decide it will have to do.

9 Replace rivet detail with little cubes of plasticard or rivet transfers.

 

It worked for me taking the cabside shutter off my Hornby 5205. 

 

 

Oh, and if the detail is on a brass etched frame I've no idea, that's why I didn't build an etched kit and used a plastic RTR one.

Thanks for the tips. I will be using the plastic frames from the kit but I may need a Bundy rum & Coke to steady my nerves before I start. If I muck it up there are plenty of spares. At last count I had 5 Kitmaster, 5 Airfix and 3 Dapol versions of the kit stashed away.

 

I'm assuming that the City class as built in 1903 (& Mauritius from 1902) would have been turned out with the indian red splashers and frames. Carter's livery book from 1952 lists both 1903 and 1904 as the change over dates to green splashers but I feel certain that I've seen a colour lithograph of one with indian red. I may have to try and buy a replacement for my long gone copy of 'Great Western Way' if I continue to backdate my models to late Victorian and Edwardian periods. 

 

Dave