Mr Grumpy’s Workbench: MOK 9F occasional updates

[Mr Grumpy]

Next up was the bunker.......David told me this can be a little tricky.

The corners are lost wax brass castings and looked very nice. I took my time and carried out several dry runs before committing myself, but still felt a little unhappy that the N/S detailing sheets stood just a tiny bit proud of the casting when assembled. I sat thinking about it for what seemed an age, then decided to fill the gap with solder and dress back. In fairness, David does stress the importance of ensuring the intimacy of the fit of the sheet to the casting, perhaps I didn't allow them to get intimate enough!  

I knew I would probably loose a few rivets on the way, but I will find a way to reinstate them.

I'm probably nearly there, but want to give the bunker a good polish and still have a couple of small blemishes to fill.

I was thinking of drilling 0.3mm holes and using wire to reinstate the rivets. I'm aware that resin type transfers are available, and if anyone knows the size and type of rivet (as there seems to be a fair few to chose from) please let me know. 

 

Here are some photos of progress so far.....

 

 

 

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Tom,

 

I forgot to mention part number 1078, which is located on the body fret and is folded in to a channel.

MarkJJ kindly gave me the heads up to let me know it is to be fitted in to the  inner body frame prior to attaching the frame to the foot plate.

There are no references or photos of the part in the instructions. See pics below for location:

 

 

 

 

[Enterprisingwestern]

I find the slot and tab system of building a bit of a double edged sword....

On the one hand and for me at least, the ability to assemble a large chunk of the kit without soldering is a massive bonus, and allows you to check for squareness and correct fit. Also, in a lot of instances, it saves having to have two pairs of hands and further clamps and devices to hold the work tightly and accurately together.

The down side, again, for me, is the snipping and filing of the tabs. It isn't too noticeable when assembling a few pieces, but I think Im about to find out, a tad monotonous with the larger structure......

 

 

Don't build a Colin Craig freightliner set then!

(Not a criticism of an excellent kit from an excellent supplier).

 

Mike.

[Scadaboy]

Thanks again Mr G - I will keep an eye out for that piece!

 

Tom

[Scadaboy]

I found it Mr G - Strange that Dave did not put out an adendum on that. I see his website has not been updated in a year, or so - he must be busy

 

 

Cheers,

 

Tom

 

 

[3 link]

The cast corners of the bunkers are the same type of style and fitting as on a lot of JLTRT's kits and like you say a bit fiddly, but from the look of your photos you have made a good job of fitting them.

 

Martyn.

[markjj]

The cast corners of the bunkers are the same type of style and fitting as on a lot of JLTRT's kits and like you say a bit fiddly, but from the look of your photos you have made a good job of fitting them.

Martyn.

The difference is they locate and fit better than many of the JLTRT ones do Martyn. They have a more positive location for a start.

[Mr Grumpy]

I decided to go up to the front end and fit the smokebox saddle and splashers. All was very straight forward, although a tad tight around the sanding gear rod.

I thought I would pop her up on her wheels and check the wheels revolve freely with the splashers in place. Couldn't resist popping on the smoke box and boiler! 

 

 

 

I guess it's time for the outer body skin! 

 

 

[3 link]

The difference is they locate and fit better than many of the JLTRT ones do Martyn. They have a more positive location for a start.

Hi Mark,

 

I am glad to hear this as I have built a few JLTRT kits namely 57xx, 42xx, 56xx and all are let down by this fairly tricky part of the build.

 

I am so tempted to go for their 9f when it comes out, I will have to save my pennies for Telford.

 

Martyn.

[markjj]

Hi Mark,

I am glad to hear this as I have built a few JLTRT kits namely 57xx, 42xx, 56xx and all are let down by this fairly tricky part of the build.

I am so tempted to go for their 9f when it comes out, I will have to save my pennies for Telford.

Martyn.

Hello Martyn

 

I'm sure the 9f will be as amazing as all the MOK kits are. I'm building a standard class 4mt at the mo from one of their kits and It has to be the best kit I have ever come across so far. I'm just hoping the 9f will be as good if not better when it arrives...

[Mr Grumpy]

Crikey, seems ages since my last post!!

Real life matters and running back and forward to the post office sending most of my models to the four corners (and beyond) of the UK has kept me busy.

 

Anyway, back to this beautiful little locomotive.

 

I have added the cab/tank overlays and they were a breeze to fit. The corners formed without incident and David has added a little extra meat on the wrapper above the cab doors to prevent warping when bending to the roof profile. See below.

I'm about to fit the tank top overlays, and a couple of slots don't quite match up with the inner tank top. No real problem, just need to exercise a little caution when I attach them!

 

 

 

The extra 'meat' above the doorway, which is filed back after folding.

 

Edited April 25, 2016 by Mr Grumpy

[Mr Grumpy]

So after two years my trusty tub of flux has come to an end....the tub I bought today was £9.99 and should last me several years!!

 

[Scadaboy]

Yes she is a beautiful little Locomotive! - and that is a big tub of Flux - will keep you building for many, many years!

 

I am finally at the brake gear stage, been a little busy lately..........LWK, (Life, Wife & Kids), I have all of the etchings and castings cleaned up and ready to go, but I need to acquire some 14BA nuts and bolts. Through some searching, I have found this place: http://www.ba-bolts.co.uk/index.html - they seem to have what I need, and the price seems very reasonable for across the pond, as we have nothing like that here, plus I can buy in bulk - for any future endeavours I may have. I value your opinion, so let me know if I am on the right track, or if you know of a better supplier of this type of hardware.

 

Cheers,

 

Tom 

Edited April 25, 2016 by Scadaboy

[Mr Grumpy]

Yes she is a beautiful little Locomotive! - and that is a big tub of Flux - will keep you building for many, many years!

 

I am finally at the brake gear stage, been a little busy lately..........LWK, (Life, Wife & Kids), I have all of the etchings and castings cleaned up and ready to go, but I need to acquire some 14BA nuts and bolts. Through some searching, I have found this place: http://www.ba-bolts.co.uk/index.html - they seem to have what I need, and the price seems very reasonable for across the pond, as we have nothing like that here, plus I can buy in bulk - for any future endeavours I may have. I value your opinion, so let me know if I am on the right track, or if you know of a better supplier of this type of hardware.

 

Cheers,

 

Tom 

 

Hi Tom,

 

Yes, I have used this company on many occasions, he is very good if you need to return/exchange items. Usual caveat, Not connected to the business, but a very happy customer.

Going back to the brake hangers,I personally found it easier to use a screw rather than a bolt. However, if you have the correct sized bolt spinner you should be ok. (This company supply them too)

 

Don't forget, we need photographic evidence of your progress!!

[Scadaboy]

Thank you Sir!

 

Yes, I was planning on getting some Cheese head screws as well, which will make life easier

 

As far as photographic evidence goes - I was toying with, (Pun intended), the idea of starting a build thread   - that way, people can better see the two builds as they progress and will give a greater perspective, comparison and photo opportunity for this great kit, without me mucking up your thread and causing confusion! But don't worry - I will certainly still chime in to your thread and follow closely for advice and guidance, as being a relative newbie - I still have a long way to go............

 

What do you think, does that sound feasible? Do you think the folks out there would want to see two MOK 14xx builds going on around the same time? Just don't want to cross anyone's tracks!

 

Cheers,

 

Tom

[Mr Grumpy]

I think it would make us up our game LOL!!

I certainly wouldn't have an issue with it. It's always interesting to see how different people tackle a problem they may encounter and gives the reader more ideas on how they may work around.

I am a relative newbe my self and have been freely given so much help and advice, it's worth posting for that!

From the photos you have already posted, it definately looks like you know what you are doing!

As I have been told, these MOK kits are addictive, Dave is so very helpful and pleasant, it makes the whole experience a pleasure. Ok, this kit has a couple of niggles, but certainly nothing that would prevent me from investing in another.

I am patiently waiting for his 9f, which I am certain will be a masterpiece. I definatley have to build something like a pannier tank and the 4mt first though.

MarkJJ is building one at present, his building skills are a lot higher than mine, and the tender he is building looks like a museum quality piece!

I will try to twist his arm to post some photos on here!! :-)

In the mean time, I will get a few of mine up loaded. I have been really busy with other stuff so had to put my 14xx on the back burner for a few days :-(

Edited April 26, 2016 by Mr Grumpy

[Scadaboy]

Right then Mr.G, with those words of encouragement - I will give it a go!

 

Should have something up by the weekend, and I will try and backtrack a bit as to where I started, and to where I am now. Until then, I will leave you with this little shot to inspire us a tad bit more........

 

Cheers,

 

Tom

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Crikey Tom,

 

I nearly had a heart attack!! I thought you had finished!!

 

What a beautiful locomotive! With (lots of) practice we may reach this dizzy height of perfection :-)

Im about to research Tetbury station as a layout and new home for my 14xx.

I have ordered the buildings from Timbertracks so I will take a break from locos and have a bash at woodwork.

[Scadaboy]

No, not even close - I only whish! - awesome pic eh? (Canadian), I use that for inspiration only, i think it is from Masterpiece Models, if i can't imagine even getting that close!..............  but, very cool!!!!!​

Edited April 28, 2016 by Scadaboy

[Mr Grumpy]

No, not even close - I only whish! - awesome pic eh? (Canadian), I use that for inspiration only, i think it is from Masterpiece Models, if i can't imagine even getting that close!..............  but, very cool!!!!!​

 

.........Its great to have ambition!

[Mr Grumpy]

I have got the bunker and cab doorway beading and valance in place and it all went on without a fight! There were a couple of overlays that had me baffled, so a quick phone call to mission control (David Sharp) soon had me on the right track.

The part numbers are: 1082, 1083. They are the detail overlays for the smoke box saddle. Even though I had the splashes and sand box rodding in place they went in ok. I did have to trim a corner off the one adjacent to the rodding though.

I turned a couple of sand box covers for the foot plate as I couldn't find the correct pattern ones on the fret.

Another reason I'm keeping a low profile is that I damaged the fire box casting. when a drill sheared. I'm totally to blame as I attempted the operation with out the proper tools.

So now I have a nice new pillar drill, centre punches, scribe and other items that should prevent me from ruining perfectly good castings!

 

 

Edited April 29, 2016 by Mr Grumpy

[markjj]

It's looking excellent Richard you should be proud of yourself !!

[Scadaboy]

I agree with Markjj - you are doing an awesome job!

 

Richard - My BA hardware is finally on it's way, so I will probably start working on the body and footplate for now to keep me busy until I can get back to the brake gear. How did you attach the door beading? did you tin that strip first, and then apply heat all the way around to set? 

 

Also sounds like the Smokebox saddle is a bit of a challenge............

 

Cheers,

 

Tom   

[Mr Grumpy]

Hi Tom,

I didn't feel the need to tin the beading first. They literally fell on!! They also formed remarkably easily. However, I do tin overlays just round the edge on the rear with the thinnest layer of solder I can manage. I barely put any solder on the iron. I then make certain it is flat and smooth by passing over 2000 grit wet and dry (or sandpaper?)

 

As for the smoke box saddle, for my next one, I will build the saddle before fitting the sand box rodding, apart from the front cover at the bottom where the rodding passes through. Otherwise the saddle is very straight forward. There are no instructions covering the splashers, but these again are very straight forward to assemble.

I didn't bother with the valance stiffening blade, I really didn't have a problem with the footplate being bendy at all. Fit the inner body then the outer skin before the valance.

Mark JJ gave me a great tip for when a tab comes through a slot in a riveted area. Cut the tab back flush with the overlay prior to fitting. Then I just drop in a minuscule amount of solder. Saves a lot of cleaning up and negates the risk of damaging detail.

[Mr Grumpy]

I have set my sights on modelling a very compressed Tetbury station, so have the excuse of building more little tank engines, so I couldn't resist ordering my next build from David.....