Mookie Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 (edited) . Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie To delete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold russ p Posted January 2, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 2, 2016 Does the Hornby chassis not need extending? As I thought it used the old Lima body. I'm not sure on the wheel placement of those two in relation to the Dapol bogie frames. But you may have been better off with a railroad 37 chassis 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APOLLO Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 My Dapol Deltic kit body fitted straight onto a Lima Deltic chassis with no modifications required. Don't know about the Hornby chassis, but if the Hornby (ex Lima) Body is the same as the old Lima body it should fit. Brit15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 (edited) On 02/01/2016 at 18:19, russ p said: Does the Hornby chassis not need extending? As I thought it used the old Lima body. I'm not sure on the wheel placement of those two in relation to the Dapol bogie frames. But you may have been better off with a railroad 37 chassis Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 A1 models of Worksop - John Flower - did a set of etched grilles for this, and may still have some. He's still in business and does some shows. The benefit of choosing a Hornby (or Lima) chassis is that you can make sure the bogie centres are at correct distances by hacking the frame - IIRC the Prototype Deltic bogie centres are a foot closer together than the production series, although the bogies themselves are longer, as you will see from the Dapol frames in the kit. John. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 (edited) On 02/01/2016 at 19:53, John Tomlinson said: A1 models of Worksop - John Flower - did a set of etched grilles for this, and may still have some. He's still in business and does some shows. The benefit of choosing a Hornby (or Lima) chassis is that you can make sure the bogie centres are at correct distances by hacking the frame - IIRC the Prototype Deltic bogie centres are a foot closer together than the production series, although the bogies themselves are longer, as you will see from the Dapol frames in the kit. John. Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium macgeordie Posted January 4, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2016 Hi Mookie I made one of these 7 or 8 years ago and used the Bachmann chassis. I used the A1 models etches and the Fox transfers for it. Fox also do some etches for this loco but they only do the nameplates on the nose sides and ends if I remember correctly. Here is a photo of my loco, the blue is the Phoenix version, it looks a bit dark in this photo, but I think it is just down to the lighting as I took it whilst exhibiting the layout and only used the lighting from the layout and the hall to take the picture. Good luck with your model. Ian 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 A1 models of Worksop - John Flower - did a set of etched grilles for this, and may still have some..... Yes, A1 did produce a set. Apart from the Craftsman DP1 conversion pack, A1 were probably the only ones to cater for the ProtoDeltic, so it's not as if you've got a lot of choice if you want detailing parts. If you were going to be nit-picking, A1 cantrail grilles are not correct for the ProtoDeltic since they have too many slats in them, but then you've got the whole context of the ex-Kitmaster kit which is wrong all over the place anyway, so what's a few extra slats? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 (edited) On 04/01/2016 at 15:17, macgeordie said: Hi Mookie I made one of these 7 or 8 years ago and used the Bachmann chassis. I used the A1 models etches and the Fox transfers for it. Fox also do some etches for this loco but they only do the nameplates on the nose sides and ends if I remember correctly. Here is a photo of my loco, the blue is the Phoenix version, it looks a bit dark in this photo, but I think it is just down to the lighting as I took it whilst exhibiting the layout and only used the lighting from the layout and the hall to take the picture. P1010696b.jpg Good luck with your model. Ian Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 (edited) On 05/01/2016 at 13:08, Horsetan said: Yes, A1 did produce a set. Apart from the Craftsman DP1 conversion pack, A1 were probably the only ones to cater for the ProtoDeltic, so it's not as if you've got a lot of choice if you want detailing parts. If you were going to be nit-picking, A1 cantrail grilles are not correct for the ProtoDeltic since they have too many slats in them, but then you've got the whole context of the ex-Kitmaster kit which is wrong all over the place anyway, so what's a few extra slats? Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium macgeordie Posted January 10, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2016 Unless Fox have discontinued them, they do a set which covers a number of the prototype diesels and all the lining is included. I'm pretty sure that was the set I used as I didn't buy any other decals from another source to complete the model. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium macgeordie Posted January 10, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2016 The set I used was FRH4040/2 and this appears to be still available. You do need to remove the moulded detail from the side of the loco body though or the lining does'nt fit properly. Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 .... After seeing what other modellers have done, I felt I wanted to have a go myself. .... Best not use mine as an example. I've corrected the bodyside window positions and the top curve of the nose, but correcting the windscreen shapes and angles have caused me no end of trouble. Until I get somewhere with that, I'll not be able to finish the thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) On 11/01/2016 at 00:04, Horsetan said: Click link to see ----> The Hybrid ProtoDeltic Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 .......a bit of kit bashing, which might get a little out of hand and become an expensive project. .... *hollow laughter* All of my projects inevitably stumble down this path!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drgj Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) Could you graft on the front cab windows from the Lima/Hornby body? I think it would improve the look as the Dapol ones don't seem quite right. I have been thinking about having a go at this. dave Edited January 11, 2016 by drgj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Could you graft on the front cab windows from the Lima/Hornby body? ...... One of the first things I tried. It sort of works, but the actual apertures for the windscreen glass are too big. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) On 10/01/2016 at 22:42, macgeordie said: The set I used was FRH4040/2 and this appears to be still available. You do need to remove the moulded detail from the side of the loco body though or the lining does'nt fit properly. Ian Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 Does the Hornby chassis not need extending? As I thought it used the old Lima body. I'm not sure on the wheel placement of those two in relation to the Dapol bogie frames. But you may have been better off with a railroad 37 chassis Russ, looks like you're right. Just received a delivery of a bogie frame for the chassis, too realise the axle spacing doesn't match the model kit axle spacing. Back to the drawing board. Going to have a look at the railroad 37 chassis you recommend, or may even have to go do the Lima chassis route after all. Kind regards, Mookie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 .... the axle spacing doesn't match the model kit axle spacing. Back to the drawing board..... Virtually nothing RTR will, because the ProtoDeltic had a bogie wheelbase of 7'2" X 7'2". The closest is the Class 47 bogie which is 7'3" X 7'3". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Here's mine, done several years ago. The body is pretty much the basic kit, the cab handrails replaced with wire, the blue was from Precision Paints and the cream stripes were done by hand. Replica, I think, provided the DELTIC decal. Glazing is from individual pieces of acetate apart from those curving cab side window which were done with Krystal Klear. The chassis is the old Hornby 37, is that the current Railroad Model? I don't recall now whether I used the original chassis frame too or just used the bogies and built a frame to suit them. It runs on Ultrascale wheels which were a drop in conversion. I think that the etched circular EE badge on the rear cab side was from Kings Cross. They were getting hard to get hold of at the time and I never managed to get hold of a pair of the corresponding rectangular plates for the opposite ends. You can see the raised blank panel where it should go. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 ..... I never managed to get hold of a pair of the corresponding rectangular plates for the opposite ends. You can see the raised blank panel where it should go. The rectangular plates come in a set produced by Fox nowadays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Thanks for that info. Ivan, I'll actually get around to finishing it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium macgeordie Posted January 14, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 14, 2016 South Eastern Finecast did a set of vacuum formed glazing for this loco but I don't know if it is still available. I do have a spare unopened pack, the reference number is SE95 if you need one Mookie. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 (edited) ....what is the coach behind the locomotive? It appears to be a dynamometer car. Looks like the LMS dynamometer. Edited January 14, 2016 by Horsetan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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