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Coleshill (Forge Mills ) layout and stock


46256
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John it was seeing yours on your thread recently that kick started  my own stalled attempt....and of course unexpected time around the house..just had delivery of a set of comet valve gear....game on......after finishing jet washing the rear patio..Karen determined as ever to keep me useful... Many having tried before...

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Work on the tank progressing slowly . I am adding the bits and pieces..... great quality as ever from comet  clack valves added from the set lots more to do. The gap in running plate added thinner chimney in place a bit of work on dome with wet and dry . 

photo of chassis mainly to show the new High level motor......Chris states it's a step up from the excellent 1219 and I can confirm it has a quality feel to it recommended.

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Other subtle differences emerge between the Ivatt and riddle versions. The Ivatt had a ladder on the rear bunker, the Riddles steps and handrails . I added the stepps yesterday as well as having the working chassis running in on the layout. Still the motion to add

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John my thoughts exactly

I couldn't find any photos readily to hand of the rear of the loco. Ian Beatties drawing in my Bradford  Barton book shows the steps rather than ladder. I've got some side views which tend to go with this option so I went for it. I keep asking myself though...not as a modeller, variety being the spice of life..why did they bother when the Ivatt was already so successful in the same role ?  I appreciate that same argument could be made for the majority of the stds ...controversial I know. My spotting mates prefer the Brits to all the other pacifics......mainly I suspect from their seeing them post 66 which co ncided with their trips to the north west. I sadly was too Young my sporting trips not really starting until 1969...I was 12 and the only steam I saw that year was at Barry.

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Sunday West Coast diversion in the seventies....the class 25 has no motor....a rare( in my experience) Bachmann diesel failure....pulling , actually being pushed by the electric. This was a common sight in my spotting days...although I have a feeling it took more than one 25. The other photo the rear of the Ivatt steps and handrails added. This is a model the more I detail the more I warm too.

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Again under the heading of spotting the blinking obvious.....added slidebars crosshead and connecting rod to one side. Then the cylinder side..running ok.....but...I am ....was using the generic comet Lms cylinder.... Far too big...the clue of course on the comet motion pack for other parts required. Ivatt class 2 cylinders  " special", So special in fact they don't appear to sell them as a seperate item. I would normally have bought a complete chassis pack but as stated I had made the frames during a period when Comet was no longer trading before happily Wizard acquired the range. I am trying to make some by reducing the width of the Lms cylinder stretcher and using left over LNER Pacific sides with the distinctive bulge at the bottom.

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I don't  believe it......soldering iron element has gone kaput.....replacement iron and another element not due to arrive until Friday. This means can't work on replacement cylinders.....does mean I can concentrate on the body. I confess I wasn't going to remove and replace the moulded handrails and smokebox door dart....however..photo to follow

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You may be aware that a company called KR models is planning to produce a Fell diesel in RTR. There is a seperate thread on this web. I have wanted this model after seeing Mike edges kit built up and running at Warley a couple of exhibitions ago. There is also a clip on YouTube of the version I want to model...green ..split coupling rods by Nick Easton.

To be honest I was not quite sure I could do Mikes kit justice, nor quite understanding how to motorise. I have therefore signed up for a KR model.

 

i won't go into detail here but there but this model may fail to materialise or if it does it will now be well into 2021,

 

i have therefore taken the plunge and ordered a kit from Mike. A pleasant phone call on Saturday secured it. I have ordered the Gibson stanier tender wheels from wizard models which are used as driving wheels. The other factor which helped me decide, the design of gearbox by Chris at High Level kits. I will be ordering this from him together with his larger motor at the end of the month. You are aware of how impressed I am with Chris's gearboxes.

 

in respect of my order with KR I will continue in good faith, they have given assurance that if the project stops any monies will be returned. If at the end of the process they send me my model.....and anticipating that my Mike Edge version will have been completed and well run in by then , I intend to sell ithe KR model, and any money raised I will donate it to any charity set up to assist those loved ones of the NHS staff who are doing so much, at such great cost....

 

stay safe 

 

best wishes Brian

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Thanks Mark, I'm sure we all do it, just a few days ago I thought " this wouldn't be a good time for the element to pack up..." I've got a new iron and a replacement element on order. It did give me an opportunity yesterday to tidy up my work area....oh dear long overdue. 

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New element delivered, then the problem of soldering the wires....fortunately I have a nimrod gas iron.....I say fortunately it has a defect it won't close off the gas once activated. For this reason little used. It was sufficient yesterday too solder the wires in place and my antex restored to working order.

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A lot of work on the cylinders courtesy of my renewed soldering iron. The comet lms cylinder stretcher narrowed to 11 mm wide. The distinctive cylinder sides produced by soldering brass tube for the top, and then comet Whitemetal LNER Pacific sides with the bulbous bottoms... Or er missus....soldered into the bottom  cavity after being reduced in height. Lms valve chests cut shorter by razor saw and affixed by solder...of course you can just buy the full comet chassis pack , but this way feels good.

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Judith edge kit for Fell has arrived. Gibson wheels already purchased. 

 High  level kits gearbox motor and drive stretcher on order. Initial inspection of the kit ....one area I had worries about, there is half etching where some of the essential bends will be required.  This will greatly assist.I will be building this as a rigid chassis. 2mm drive bearings included. 

There are 25 (50 in total) front / rear radiator grille slats to be soldered forward facing that will test the old patience trying to think of a way of ensuring equal spacing.....any way I will be finishing the Ivatt before starting this. This is an impressive work by Mike Edge.

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This will be the first diesel locomotive kit I have built , it's chassis is not unlike a steam locomotive so that will be my first priority to have an assembled well working chassis  before any attempt at the bodywork....oh and Mike commences there as well in his instructions...

 

 

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I have been Ignoring the siren calls from my latest purchase..." Just build the bogies...just build the bogies ..." No I am perservering with what I mistakenly referred to as the Ivatt...the riddles std tank . The fiddley motion work...one side completed one to go. I then have all the pipe work on the firebox...steam manifold.

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working on the Riddles tank added the cab steps fixing them to the chassis. This has then helped fixing the steam injectors and pipe work. Whilst working decided to give my DJH Duke of Glos a run. The loco is in its pre withdrawal condition reflecting how much Crewe North loved it ......astonished to read it went in November 1962.... Eight years after introduction. Of course it has had a longer lease of life and realised its true potential in preservation. I first saw it at Barry minus its cylinders in 69. The next time was on the ex GW mainline in preservation it came off the Midland at St. Andrews jct then came towards us at Bordsley ....marvellous!  The model is DJH with large portescap....no problems with haulage. The spacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngwas a problem I hadn't run it for....years....the left hand crosshead kept coming out of the single slidebars.....eventually cured but made me appreaciate how far my modelling had progressed....hopefully good enough to do the etched Fell justice.spacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.png

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Working on the Fell,  the roadrunner gearbox and associated drive coupler constucted and after a bit of a glitch working to my satisfaction. This in Itself is an impressive piece of engineering  increasing my regard for High Level products will photo. In respect of the glitch whilst in the midst of trying to sort it out I  sent a PM to John (R) venting my frustration. He kindly replied that it was my own fault for attempting to create an engine that caused such angst in real life!

He did add that he was joking .... This is a comlplex build so be prepared for more PM s John

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Just combined the coupler with gearbox, the one eighth bearing on the outside of the gearbox acts as a pivot....the coupler locates over this. I had taken the precaution of soaking the relevant end of the coupler in metal black so it didn't solder onto the bearing. The glitch mentioned I will explain not in any way a criticism but hopefully to assist any other modellers attempting this build. On receipt of the gearbox I thought it would contain 2mm axle bearings. Instead it had the normal one eigth . The axle gear again bored for one eighth was able to be secured via the grubscrew onto the 2mm driving axle. On making up the gearbox and in the absence of the 2mm bearings I soldered some appropriate tube into the one eighth bearings,  cut and filed it off. Axle and gear now inserted, screwed and secure. Failure to properly mesh. After a lot of contemplation and frustrated pms to my friend John I realised the problem. The axle gear needs to be 2 mm bore the right sized side bearings  either in the gearbox or when added to the frames, alone won't compensate for this. I therefore removed the cut tube from the bearings and placed it either end of the axle gear reducing the bore to the correct 2mm. I superglued the piece nearest the plastic gear, and soldered in the other end. Success...I The also realised that the one eighth bearings were not an error but needed on the gearbox to act as the pivot mentioned, in addition "hooks" over the 2mm bearings in the frames.

 

in respect of the incorrect bore of the axle gear I'm sure Chris has that available but this was included in error. He did say he was dealing with a lot of orders, and making up particular sets.

 

 I will confirm with him during the week The other axle gear for the end of the drive coupler has the correct 2 mm bore. In conclusion just had the gearbox and coupler running under power...a really satisfying sight At the rear the inner frames tack soldred for now  on one side. I've cheated used Hornby std 4 bogies for road testing. A lot of metal removed from wheels arches to prevent shorting.

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Apologies if I've missed some text above (although I have looked), but I'm just trying to understand how you're doing this.

 

Does the drive coupler act on the middle two axles? If so will the outer two drivers then be set in motion by the coupling rods?

 

I assume this is being built as a 4-4-4-4, as if it was a 4-8-4 you wouldn't presumably need the drive coupler, but could just motorize one of the centre axles and use the coupling rods?

 

Or am I talking a load of xxxx?!

 

John.

 

 

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Good afternoon John if you were talking that way you would be in very good company which most definately includes me.

 

you are correct the gear box and drive coupler link the two middle axles, they in turn will be connected by the seperate coupling rods, to the outer wheels. 

I have a number of concerns not least having sufficient Sideplay to get around my layout. I have had the motor gearbox and coupler unit working in the inner frames....very nicely. I have painted the frames black and am now in the process of adding the outer frames. One modification I have made to the kit design again hopefully to increase Sideplay . The OO frame spacers were supplied at 12 mm apart. I usually use Comet which are 11mm. I have therefore reduced the spacers by one mm. I have readjusted the location of the screws holding the bogies in place accordingly.. The kit is very well designed and executed and I'm sure if being built by Mike himself would run like a dream without my modifications. 

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