o gauge nut Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 hi i have a pair of green Heljan class 20s that i would love to be repainted in to br blue does any body in birmingham do a good repaint at a good price as i would rather send these to some one who knows what they are doing than me make a mess of them as i have been after a pair for ages now and the blue ones just dont come up. also i have been thinking of removing one motor and using a v4 sound decoder ? would this work hope some one can help terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Hi Terry, Removing one motor from each and fitting a decoder will work, as the peak current on a Heljan motor (stall current is less than 1.1A). Are you wanting them detailed and weathered or just a respray? Regards Vin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o gauge nut Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 Hi Terry, Removing one motor from each and fitting a decoder will work, as the peak current on a Heljan motor (stall current is less than 1.1A). Are you wanting them detailed and weathered or just a respray? Regards Vin hi vin many thanks for your reply i wanted them just painted i think but i was after a faded blue effect but do not know if this is possable or not in the painting stage. i have have done a 4mm model using a white wash but it was not perfect and in 7mm i think it realy needs to be spot on . i am not to bad with the air brush doing a bit of weathering on the chassis and buffers ect but its the faded look rather than the dirty look that im after. so if that means painting and weathering numbering and detailing thats what i will have to go for . as for the sound i have a blue 20 with xl decoder fitted and it seems a little overkill as the layout is only going to be an end to end 14 foot by 2 foot and not going to be pulling rakes of rolling stock about terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Hi, you can buy a faded BR blue from Phoenix. Dougal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Hi Terry, If you pm your email I can show you some photos of fade!!! The photos are 20 megapixels each so I cannot post them. Regards Vin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 The photos are 20 megapixels each so I cannot post them. You could always re-size the pics and post them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Hi all, It is really bad when you have hunt in Flickr for your own photos because you cannot find the files in the cloud. Here is 33027 that I did last year with blue faded spray, which was done by spraying a coat of BR blue. Then spraying more coats with white added and others with black misted over. The beauty of 7mm scale locos is that if you use an airbrush with different heads/ needles the spray pattern can be controlled with a lot of accuracy. So first I detail grilles, doors and crevices with a fine head and then coat with the medium or large head. The spray patterns are from a pencil line to a rattle can sizes. Then the over coating with the fades are sprayed whilst wet, which blends the pigments together. I was once asked to de-weather a loco which is impossible with this method as it is a part of the paintwork and not a post paint job weathering effect. The roof is also fade weathered with about 5 or 6 shades of grey. This method of painting is more commonly used by military modellers for some reason, I have no idea why? I will have to hunt and resize some more locos and stock. Regards Vin P.S. I know it is not a class 20 but this was the first one I came across. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o gauge nut Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 hi vin that looks superb very realistic will send you a pm now terry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o gauge nut Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 something like this would suit me just fine but not quiet sure of numbers yet something like this would suit me just fine but not quiet sure of numbers yet sorry wrong picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o gauge nut Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 i ment to post this one sorry all im new to this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o gauge nut Posted February 13, 2016 Author Share Posted February 13, 2016 i think i will have a go myself completely stripped the body down now ready for primer must say i am a little nerverse but will never know till i have a go . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 i think i will have a go myself completely stripped the body down now ready for primer must say i am a little nerverse but will never know till i have a go . Please post some progress photo's. I need to do the same to my sound equipped Green class 20. At least the body comes off easily which is a bonus. Dougal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Hi Terry, The Heljan model is great to work on but they did restrict the number of locos you can model without some alteration. This is because of the cab side windows, they put the none tablet catcher smaller size windows which was only used on two batches of disc fitted class 20's. 20002 is fine as it had this feature and the others are 20001 to 20027 and 20035 to 20069. Regards Vin P.s. Before you prime the body shells the window apartures need some filing around the inside edge as the glazing is a tight fit without the addition of extra paint layers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o gauge nut Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 thanks for the tip vin but already primed the loco before i picked this up and have done a couple of thin coats of yellow on the end so far using 202 but still looks very yellow compaired to the Heljan model so going to add a very small amount of orange to the next mix and see if that will match better will test on plasticard sample first of course 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o gauge nut Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 i will see how this one comes out first before i paint the other two just ordered the transfers and weathering paints while i wait for paint to dry. can allways give it a heavy weathering if its a little shabby lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 Railmatch 202 is very thin anyway and I usually give it 3 coats as it builds the colour gradually. Add orange to it will help. Also there is an optical effect against a background of grey which makes yellows look paler than they really are. Once the contasting blue is applied it changes the look of the yellow anyway. Regards Vin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 For decoders try the Loksound L. Smaller than the XL but can cope with twin motors (it's 3amp rated), also rather cheaper (approx £115 or so) but still lots of function outputs available. Being smaller it's also easy to fit flat in narrow-hood diesels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 Hi, The ESU decoder I'm going to use in my 37423 build. As for the Heljan class 20 it will be a bit of a squeeze as the smoke generator takes a lot of the room up. Personally the 20 only really needs one motor for most layouts. So keeping the nose end motor as it has the fan directly above it and removing the cab end motor but keeping the pickups will be fine. Regards Vin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o gauge nut Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 its had 3 coats now with a spot of orange and looks much better will take pictures tomoz as i will leave to harden now for 24 hours before i mask up and do the blue . what masking tape do you use ?.i was thinking of normal masking tape from the local motorparts shop . the other loco in the picture has a zimo xl sound decoder fitted and im pleased with it but thinking of upgrading the speaker will check out with swd there esu L decoder in the week and get one ordered i think so i can get it all done at the same time to save taking it all appart again after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 Hi Terry, I use Tamiya 6mm wide tape for the painted edges and decorators M3 tape for masking off larger areas and other places I don't want the paint, such as cab interiors. Regards Vin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o gauge nut Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 hi vin see what you mean by paint inside the cab will put that right later well first couple of coats of rail blue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o gauge nut Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 getting carried away now going for the faded affect not bad for first attempt at a repaint please feel free to comment. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Hi Terry, That looks good from the photos. At that stage I would now remask the yellow and do a oily black fade on the bottom of the engine room doors and solebar. Then whilst that paint is still wet spray the centre of each panel with a dusting of rail blue. This highlights the faded areas and blends the paint effect. Good work, regards Vin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o gauge nut Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 hi vin thanks for all the tips keep them coming rest of the paint and transfers from fox turned up today so got plenty to do over the next couple of nights. i can start weathering the chassis while the paint dries on the body. will i need to varnish before transfers ? and do you know of any body who does a good seated driver in hi vis jacket as im planning on detailing the cab and may be cab light . terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Hi Terry, A coat of gloss varnish is needed for the transfers to sit on as a matt finish can effect the clear carrier film and so can be seen. I use these drivers, http://www.peterclarkkits.com/lineside-accessories.html. or some from Tower models. Regards Vin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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