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Heljan class 20 repaint help and v4 sound decoder


o gauge nut

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hi as you can see i have taken vins tips on going over the panels with blue again and it does look much more realistic just cant capture it in the photos.

when we get a bright day i will take it outside to photograth 

as you can see from the pics below i have started to re assemble  the loco and have added the numbers  to an ok standard hoping to hide some bits with a bit of weathering .

next job is to fit handrails ect and buffer beam detail and then i will start the weathering  LOOKING FOR MORE TIPS HERE VIN.

all in all i am quit pleased with it so far for a first attempt   but found it a real  learning curve  as i thought it would be done in a couple  of days but a week later we are still not there yet.

tryed to order the sound decoder from swd but out of stock till the end of the month  so the chasiss will have to wait till then. for its make over,

 

i welcome your comments 

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Hi Terry,

Whilst you had the silver paint out for the window surrounds you should have done all the door handles and buffer shanks. I've also noticed you can still the carrier film on the numbers as it is on a matt base. I also varnish the loco body with matt varnish after applying the decals as it stops them falling off. Looking good and will be even better when running.

 

Regards

Vin

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hi vin yes i noticed that as well but going to hide that with weathering i hope 

i was intending to varnish the whole loco with varnish after it had been weathered to give it a seal 

its all the small stuff that takes the time and  patience  . might send the other two to you LOL

considering  a green 33 of ebay but that will need a repaint in two blue also .

why is there plenty of green about but very little blue ????

 

terry

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I think you might have a problem disguising the carrier film even with weathering as it has a hard square edge. You could try microsol which is solvent based and basically melts the transfer to the bodyside.

I have no idea where all the blue class 33's are. Out of over a dozen I've had since introduction I've only had one blue one, the rest being green.

 

Regards

Vin

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Hi Terry,

 

Your efforts seem to have paid off as the 20 looks good.  I think Vin's advice about going over the panels with 'normal' BR blue was good advice as it has made the finish more like the real photo that you are working to.

 

I've been following this quite closely as I have my JLTRT class 20 body to paint/ spray now so it's nice to see how others get along with achieving a weathered look.

 

Cheers

Lee

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hi lee thank you for your comments 

yes this has been a real learning curve and quiet worrying at times knowing the cost of the loco that i could  easy make a complete mess of this being my first re paint.

luckily i have had vin giving me tips through out  that have realy helped  thanks vin 

i know its no were near a pro finish but i am quit pleased with the finish so far but an expert would pick up all the mistakes strait away as i can see them all myself and hoping to hide them with weathering.

 

i will keep all the pictures coming right to the end so you can see how she turns out  and hopefully people can learn from my mistakes 

 

terry

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Hi,

 

You should be pleased with what you have done. It looks great. The problem with painting is that it can look easy to do but I've been painting locos for over 20 years so have picked up loads of tricks. I've also switched from enamel 10 years ago to acrylics because of the lead in enamels. The switch means drying times are different from one to another but the basics are the same. I have noticed that pigments in enamel blues do seem to have a short shelf life compared to the acrylic ones, I think particles dry within the paint mix and this effects the finish.

I really do like painting and weathering modern stock in O gauge as it has a presence the smaller scales doesn't seem to have. The only problem is when there is a fault it is almost going to be twice as glaring. I must get back to completing 37423 & the stack of new nameplates as well.

 

Regards

Vin

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  • 6 months later...

Hi,

You should be pleased with what you have done. It looks great. The problem with painting is that it can look easy to do but I've been painting locos for over 20 years so have picked up loads of tricks. I've also switched from enamel 10 years ago to acrylics because of the lead in enamels. The switch means drying times are different from one to another but the basics are the same. I have noticed that pigments in enamel blues do seem to have a short shelf life compared to the acrylic ones, I think particles dry within the paint mix and this effects the finish.

I really do like painting and weathering modern stock in O gauge as it has a presence the smaller scales doesn't seem to have. The only problem is when there is a fault it is almost going to be twice as glaring. I must get back to completing 37423 & the stack of new nameplates as well.

Regards

Vin

Hi Vin

I wonder if I can pick your brain regarding my BR blue 20 which needs a small job doing. As is well known, Heljan didn't 'wrap' the warning yellow paint around the sides of the driving cab, so my nicely faded 20 still looks a bit odd when viewed from the side. What preparation should I do to that thin strip of body side which is currently blue, before repainting to yellow?

I have the Tamiya 6mm masking tape at the ready and intend to use Railmatch 202. So far so good?

 

Regards Phil

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  • 1 year later...

hi i have a pair of green Heljan class 20s that i would love to be repainted in to br blue  

does any body in birmingham do a good repaint at a good price  as i would rather send these  to some one who knows what they are doing than me make a mess of them as i have been after a pair for ages now and the blue ones just dont come up.

 

also i have been thinking of removing one motor and using a v4 sound decoder ? would this work 

 hope some one can help

 

terry

 

Hi Terry.

Just read your work on the class 20 fitting a v4 decoder and removing a motor.

I have a new class 20 o gauge and tempted to do the same , how did you get on with the decoder, did it work ok .

Thanks Paul

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