RMweb Gold JCL Posted January 23, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 23, 2018 Hi Nick, I don't know if htis is your situation, but that happened to me consistently in two cases: a corrupt SVG file that I imported into Cut2D, and a file that was too big for the software to handle. Strangely it also happened when I started up cutting again last November, but for some reason, and without any software updates, it righted itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alangdance Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Can anybody tell why my finger are bent up. This does not happen not every corner only on a few. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold GWR57xx Posted January 29, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 29, 2018 I came across this superb thread after reading Greengiant's "The Yard" thread and seeing the superb structures being put together using the Emblaser. Just spent an enjoyable, amusing, educational and enthralling several hours (over a few days) reading through the entire thread. Thank you all for sharing your experiences and modelling examples. Until I read this thread I didn't think it would be possible to do stuff like this at home myself (I realise that scribing brickwork is only the beginning, and that the finishing, painting and weathering is another art in itself that I'll need to learn too). Having been completely inspired and enthused by this thread, and even though I haven't even started putting baseboards together for a layout yet, I have just ordered an A3 Emblaser1 thanks to all the incredible buildings etc being produced here. I will now have to learn how to use a CAD tool (have downloaded DraftSight) and all the other software needed to drive the Emblaser. Should keep me out of mischief for a very long time. BTW if anyone else is interested, the A3 Emblaser1 is currently on offer and only AUS$30 more than the A4 version. Since I'm doing 7mm I thought the extra size would come in useful for anything bigger than a tool shed, and at that price seemed rude not to go for the larger size. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted January 29, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 29, 2018 I came across this superb thread after reading Greengiant's "The Yard" thread and seeing the superb structures being put together using the Emblaser. Just spent an enjoyable, amusing, educational and enthralling several hours (over a few days) reading through the entire thread. Thank you all for sharing your experiences and modelling examples. Until I read this thread I didn't think it would be possible to do stuff like this at home myself (I realise that scribing brickwork is only the beginning, and that the finishing, painting and weathering is another art in itself that I'll need to learn too). Having been completely inspired and enthused by this thread, and even though I haven't even started putting baseboards together for a layout yet, I have just ordered an A3 Emblaser1 thanks to all the incredible buildings etc being produced here. I will now have to learn how to use a CAD tool (have downloaded DraftSight) and all the other software needed to drive the Emblaser. Should keep me out of mischief for a very long time. BTW if anyone else is interested, the A3 Emblaser1 is currently on offer and only AUS$30 more than the A4 version. Since I'm doing 7mm I thought the extra size would come in useful for anything bigger than a tool shed, and at that price seemed rude not to go for the larger size. welcome to the mad house Nick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted January 29, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 29, 2018 Can anybody tell why my finger are bent up. This does not happen not every corner only on a few. Alan Sorry, I'm afraid I don't understand what you mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyper Aus Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Sorry, I'm afraid I don't understand what you mean. I assume he is talking about the interlocking bricks for the corners of the building. Some of these interlocking "fingers" must be curling up during the cutting process? Possible material issue? Material getting too hot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold GWR57xx Posted January 29, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 29, 2018 welcome to the mad house Nick Thanks - I am really looking forward to it 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted January 29, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 29, 2018 Thanks - I am really looking forward to it if your stuck ask we may not know the correct answer but will try to help Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted January 29, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 29, 2018 I assume he is talking about the interlocking bricks for the corners of the building. Some of these interlocking "fingers" must be curling up during the cutting process? Possible material issue? Material getting too hot? Ah, that's true. It'd be great to see a photo if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alangdance Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 sorry no photo available but yes it is the interlocking fingers. This does not always happen only on the odd corner now and then. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 I've never had that happen - so I suspect it's the material. What material are you using, and where did you buy it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 I came across this superb thread after reading Greengiant's "The Yard" thread and seeing the superb structures being put together using the Emblaser. Just spent an enjoyable, amusing, educational and enthralling several hours (over a few days) reading through the entire thread. Thank you all for sharing your experiences and modelling examples. Until I read this thread I didn't think it would be possible to do stuff like this at home myself (I realise that scribing brickwork is only the beginning, and that the finishing, painting and weathering is another art in itself that I'll need to learn too). Having been completely inspired and enthused by this thread, and even though I haven't even started putting baseboards together for a layout yet, I have just ordered an A3 Emblaser1 thanks to all the incredible buildings etc being produced here. I will now have to learn how to use a CAD tool (have downloaded DraftSight) and all the other software needed to drive the Emblaser. Should keep me out of mischief for a very long time. BTW if anyone else is interested, the A3 Emblaser1 is currently on offer and only AUS$30 more than the A4 version. Since I'm doing 7mm I thought the extra size would come in useful for anything bigger than a tool shed, and at that price seemed rude not to go for the larger size. It's not something you'll regret. The only reason I got an A4 was the space issue. Particularly with the lenses upgrade, it's a very capable machine when you get used to it. It certainly does very much more than we all initially thought it would. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alangdance Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 1.5mm Mdf from Maple street speed 300 power100 2 cuts. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flubrush Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 1.5mm Mdf from Maple street speed 300 power100 2 cuts. Alan, I've been cutting a fair bit of that sheet lately with no problems - the low relief factory building further up the thread used that thickness of sheet. I cut at 90%, 16mm/sec(960mm/min) and six passes, so proportionally probably the same cutting power as you. I'm just about to have another session on the same thickness so I'll keep an eye out for any problems. Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alangdance Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Thanks for that Jim Have you used their 3mm mdf before. Just got some in and can not get it to cut even after 8 cuts. after 8 cuts it has hardly marked the mdf. Did notice that it was very shinny. Not sure if that is causing the issues. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Alan, Is the Maple Street MDF actually sold as being a laser grade? It doesn't appear to say so. Different glues within different grades of MDF are more readily cut by diode lasers than others, which can make a significant difference. I buy mine (2mm) from Hobarts, which cuts well, but I bought some 1mm stuff from elsewhere that I can't cut through (even though it was supposed to be a laser grade!) Best Giles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flubrush Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 (edited) Thanks for that Jim Have you used their 3mm mdf before. Just got some in and can not get it to cut even after 8 cuts. after 8 cuts it has hardly marked the mdf. Did notice that it was very shinny. Not sure if that is causing the issues. Alan Alan, I have purchased the Maple Street 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm MDF and have cut all of these sizes with no apparent problems. I used the 1mm to produce wagon bodies for some kits for the S Scale Society and I must have cut about twenty sets of parts with no problems. I've used the 2mm MDF to cut wagon body parts for 1:32 scale, and again no problems. I haven't had need to work in thicker sizes so I haven't tried their 3mm thick sheet. Noting what Giles has said, Maple Street don't specify their MDF as laser grade and it could be that they source their materials from various sources. Also, I also remember reading somewhere that the very thin MDF sheets are produced by reducing the thickness of thicker sheets by planing or abrading. It could be that the matt finish of the thinner sheets is fine for laser work, but the 3mm sheet may be as produced in the MDF manufacturing process and the shiny surface is acting as a barrier to the laser beam. I do remember working with MDF making desks some years ago and remember the hard shiny finish on the material. I was surprised to note that the very thin sheets had a matt surface - not what I was expecting. I wonder if it is worth doing a test and sanding the surface of a bit of the 3mm to see if the laser cuts with a matt surface.- just for interest's sake. :-) An alternative source of laser suitable 3mm would be the obvious option. Jim. Edited February 1, 2018 by flubrush Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 Whilst on the subject of the Emblaser 1, I thought I'd show my set-up at present. I have a skirt of black wool sarge right around it, which kills much of the nasty light out-put, as well as not allowing smoke or dust out of the sides. Overhead is an extractor hood, about 24 quid from ebay, with an in-line extractor fan, all venting through an old air-brick. It sucks up 90% of any smoke etc.. and is almost silent. The E1 itself has of course been upgraded with the lens and fan previously discussed, and I usually run it with a gap of 0.8mm from the work surface, rather than the larger gap using the supplied gauge. Emblaser 1 with extractor hood by giles favell, on Flickr 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted February 3, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 3, 2018 Hi Giles, thanks for your photo, I've been toying with a fan setup like this in my shed (where I can put a hole through the wall without worrying about it). I've a choice of inline fans (mainly the diameter) Is there any sort of power rating on your fan and are you pleased with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 This was the fan I used..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hydroponic-Grow-Room-Silent-Quiet-Fan-Inline-Tent-Extractor-Duct-Carbon-Filter/122673911855?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 It's very nice and quiet, and just about powerful enough. Certainly this is the minimum I should say - and also keep the length of ductwork down, and if you can go for a smooth bore tube, do that. My set up makes a massive amount of difference, but it isn't 100% perfect. However, I am perfectly happy with it. (Avoid those fans with a timer- unless you particularly want one!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrushType4 Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 (edited) Would a kitchen extractor work? They can be picked for next to nothing from recycling centres. Edited February 3, 2018 by BrushType4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 I certainly think it should..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flubrush Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 I have used a small extractor fan which I got in Screwfix for under £20. My Emblaser is in a very large Really Useful box and the fan is fitted in the lid and feeds into a length of flexible tube - also from Screwfix - which leads to an plate fitted into the toplight in my bedroom window. It works very well and might be a bit too powerful for the job. But it is very quiet. Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted February 4, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2018 Thanks Giles, I'll look into what i can get here in Canada Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greengiant Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 With the Embalmer 2 I made a plate to fit into a window opening in the conservatory, the open window also forms a shield should it start raining. Very much a Heath Robinson contraption, using what I had kicking around in the shed. The grey tube is permanently fitted to the flexible hose with a jubilee clip and the tube is a tight fit into a waste pipe fitting attached both sides of the plywood, fixed in place using a hot glue gun. The wooden sticks top left and right have tapers on the other side, so as they are turned against the window frame they pull the plywood plate tight against the frame to form a seal. The bottom two are wedges which drop through some old handles and wedge against the window frame pulling it up tight. Not pretty but it works. I don't think the fan in the E2 is really up to the job, more on it's limits, will in time look at fitting an additional or replacement system. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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