Wiring Shunting Layout

[boody227]

Hi all, Just wondering if anybody could show me what wiring is needed for my new layout. I realise that the main line at the top would be isolated if power was supplied from the yard.

Thanks in advance. Luke

[28XX]

Where do the arrow heads point to? If they are all dead ends, I can answer. If the "main line" or any of the other tracks meet up elsewhere off this plan I need to see the full picture

[boody227]

The tracks end at the arrows for now. I may extend the mainline in the distant future but for now what you see is final.

Thanks. Luke

[28XX]

Ok. If this is just a shunting layout and assuming analogue control not DCC you will only need one controller. The main feed should be where the two R8072 points are joined 'toe to toe' in the centre of the diagram towards the bottom. This will enable you to place locos in the sidings and shut them in using the self isolating feature of the points. The main line section top right should have its own feed, possibly via a switch, so again you can lock an engine in there. That's it.

[Spitfire2865]

No matter the method of control, I can not stress enough the importance of multiple dropper wires.

 

I assume Peco electrofrog turnouts, if so, Also remember to isolate all frogs with Insulated rail joiners, the frogs will also need track feeds.

 

 

Here is a diagram of where you should place track feeds.

With this, you will get very good power distribution.

 

If you wanted to take it even further and absolutely ensure there is never a loss of track power, solder a dropper to every individual length of rail.

[boody227]

Hello all, after a decision of the usefulness of my design, I have decided to change it to a classic inglenook, this will allow me much more shunting options. It will also fit my 4'X1' Layout perfectly, as well as offering the option to extend the layout in future.
That's a brilliant diagram Spitfire2865, sorry to be a pain but could you do the same diagram for a classic inglenook?
Much Appreciated
Luke

[Spitfire2865]

Hello all, after a decision of the usefulness of my design, I have decided to change it to a classic inglenook, this will allow me much more shunting options. It will also fit my 4'X1' Layout perfectly, as well as offering the option to extend the layout in future.

That's a brilliant diagram Spitfire2865, sorry to be a pain but could you do the same diagram for a classic inglenook?

Much Appreciated

Luke

Could you draw out the plan? I dont know if you have anything else on the plan.

For example, my layout is a standard inglenook but with a runaround and facing siding. That always complicates wiring.

Also, what kind of points are you using? Insulfrog or Electrofrog?

I would highly recommend electrofrog points if you are going to be using small locos at slow speeds.

[DCB]

If I am not mistaken the Hornby R8070 is designed for use with point motors as it has no over centre spring, is dead frog and has DCC clips so is non isolating.  

 

If I am right   Spitfire 2865's diagram could not really be more wrong.  You just need two feeds where the points go toe to toe, but the points will not self isolate with DCC clips.

 

I you have these points I would put it down to experience and buy some Peco Streamline Live Frog points.

 

The Hornby track geometry is pure 1960s train set, the dead frogs are pure 1960s train set, do you see a pattern emerging?

 

The short 7.2 " streamline point  is no longer than  R8070 but is 18" radius minimum and against 15" for the Hornby and gives appreciably closer track spacing at 50mm.   The Hornby geometry just wastes width.  The worst feature is the plastic frog, they look ugly and don't conduct and are the #1 reason for stallling. I have converted lots of old points to live frog and simply would not consider using dead frog.

[28XX]

My assumptions on reading this post were that the op was new to the hobby, was not DCC since he had posted in this section and needed an easy "get me started" answer. My bad not to read the spec on the R8070.

[boody227]

Hello all, im quite upto date with model railways, but not wiring. The track is peco 75, with electrofrog, I just used standard Hornby track on scarm as it was the first popping up.
The inglenook design for now is just the top mainline and headshunt with 2 sidings.
Many thanks, Luke

[boody227]

Also I am wanting DCC in future, I have a DCC Select, which is good enough for my use and I will eventually be adding sound decoders to my DCC Ready stock. Also I will eventually be hardwiring most of my older locos to DCC Sound when time and funds allow.
Many Thanks, Luke

[Spitfire2865]

Here is a diagram. Remember to insulate the frogs and get the frog switching polarity correct.

I labeled the feeds North and South, call it what you want, its just the two bus wires.

 

And the reason I insist on multiple track feeds is the issue of poor connection between rail and rail joiner. You dont want a layout to stop working right after you finish building it.

 

My layout, although only 4' long, has multiple feeds throughout and Im planning on adding a few more in certain sections.

 

Which is worse, a couple more solder joints, or a broken layout?

[boody227]

That's Brilliant. Yeah I agree it is much better to have a proper layout first before scenics are added rather than a poorly constructed affair, which will no doubt fail when complete.

Thanks very much :-)

Luke