Bill Bedford BBE021-4 Wagon Wheelbase Jig

[John Tomlinson]

The trouble I am having is getting the chassis flat and sometimes very loose or tight running wheels, most of the chassis are twisted so after gentle twisting the opposite way I can get them to look flat on a glass mirror but for some reason when the buffer beams solebars and wheels are fitted and checked again there is sometimes one wheel not in contact with the mirror. It is here that I thought the jig may help but I realise that the problem is still a warp in the chassis......possibly

 

I have tried building wagons a few different ways to see if this helps but no luck.

 

All excess plastic/sprues are removed prior to building and all parts are dry fitted first and to look to be a good fit, with regard to the solebars I have only been gluing these in by sight which is probably where the wheel issues are coming from, I never thought of using small rubber bands to keep tension on the solebars, but then this raises the question, do both solebars get glued on then wheels and rubber bands added before the glue hardens or is it best done another way?

 

I have built up a few wagons which are free running with no slop in the axles and a 'square' looking body and chassis only to see a wagon rocking on the track.

 

I am using 'Plastic Magic' glue with applied with a pin flow applicator but don't these would have an affect on things.

 

I have searched online for a guide or help and tips or even videos of wagon build ups but there isn't anything and as Enterprisingwestern has said the instructions aren't the best, I seem to have one problem or another with every build, I wouldn't care I love kit building and I think these wagons are so realistic compared to the RTR stuff.

 

Michael

In the past I have encountered similar issues to these, and have found the following procedure to help;

 

Ensure by careful filing that the tops of both solebars are flat and true, that is at right angles to the W irons.

 

Using a square, mark a few lines on the wagon base in pencil that are at right angles to the length. These will be used to sight that the wheel axles are parallel.

 

Glue one solebar to the base ensuing it is parallel to the length and therefore at right angles to the lines. Check that the W irons are perpendicular to the base and that the base remains flat. It is quite easy for the solebar to impart a curve to the base as it dries, and if you have a flat surface such as glass plate weight the base on it, for example using old loco weights, while the lot dries. Preferably leave overnight.

 

Add the second solebar, and insert the wheel axles. You should be able to sight that these are parallel to your pencil lines. Check no twist in the base, and weight whilst drying as before. Definitely leave overnight to set.

 

Check the day after all is well, if not it should still be possible to remove one solebar and have another go. You may need to do a bit of packing with plastic strip.

 

 

Whilst waiting for setting you can proceed with preparing the wagon body parts, and I try if possible to make this as a separate assembly that will drop onto the chassis. If you make the body so as to be completely true, it should attach and be true without pulling the chassis out of true, and all will be well, headstocks parallel to axles, wagon sides parallel to solebars. If the body isn't true it is all too easy for this to pull the chassis out and make it rock when the two are married up.

 

Another use of time for when you are waiting for things to set is to have several wagons on the go at the same time.

 

Hope this helps.

 

John.

 

Pics at    https://www.flickr.com/photos/51265696@N03

 

and my edits are to try to get this link to work!