PhilMortimer Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 Not much progress the past few days - too many other things requiring my time. However, the con rods are on the second power unit, making one complete loco with working waggly bits. The other two units are in progress as i can get time to work on them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 Phil I'm a Great Western modeller. This is the first loco I've built that doesn't only have inside motion... Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted August 3, 2017 Author Share Posted August 3, 2017 Oh, I haven't even started on the valve gear yet. I'm still setting the connecting rods. Third unit set up last night and working nicely. Last one to do tonight if I can get time at the bench. Then cladding the cylinders - something I've always disliked doing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted August 4, 2017 Author Share Posted August 4, 2017 Con rods added to last unit. So all 4 are done now and working smoothly. Looks good when both loco's are pushed along with everything waggling away. May still have to file a little extra clearance on the motion brackets, but that can be done as and when. Cylinder fronts to be added then cladding. Photo's to follow. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted August 11, 2017 Author Share Posted August 11, 2017 (edited) Just a couple of pictures to show that I'm not dead and that this project is still alive Firstly, one of the loco's with the completed slidebar and con rod assemblies. Not the greatest picture in the world, but you get the idea. The brass bits sitting on top of each power unit are the cylinder cladding sheets. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Secondly, a photo showing the cylinder cladding sheets for all eight (!) cylinders, formed to shape. I think Ken mason has described this in his thread, but basically each was gradually formed to shape using various rods and finger pressure to gradually bend the brass. Care has to be taken to use light pressure and i ususally start up with large diameter rods to get an initial curvature, progressing down to smaller rods to get to the desired radius and shape. It can be a tedious process, espescially with eight to do!. Sometimes it took a while to get the correct shape, but then suddenly just slotted into place. Each is formed to the exact cylinder profile as given by the etch and so are marked up to make sure the corect cladding goes on the relevant cylinder. These now need to be pre-tinned on the inside before soldering in place, which if it is as wet tomorrow as is predicted, will probabaly occur then. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Edited August 11, 2017 by PhilMortimer 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted August 14, 2017 Author Share Posted August 14, 2017 Not as wet as predicted over the weekend so SWMBO had other plans for me. But three pairs of cladding sheets installed on the cylinders. Not as bad as I feared. Fiddly more than difficult, but having the cladding sheets pre-formed to shape helped significantly. Last pair to be installed tonight, hopefully pictures to follow tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 (edited) And so it is done. A significant psychological milestone has been achieved - all eight cylinders are clad and fitted with slidebars that work smoothly and oscilate with the rotating wheels. Given the sloppy fit of the cylinder etches in the chassis, the assymetric nature of the etches as originally recieved and the work to get everything lined up when building the chassis, I consider it an achievement that the cladding went on with little fettling to get it to fit the cylinder profiles correctly (with no overhang, etc). Actually, given the hassle with the chassis, I consider it a bloody miracle! Anyhow, the last of the cladding sheets were added last night. Here is pictoral progress. The picture below shows power units 3 and 4 (belonging to the loco destined for me) with unit 3 having the clad cylinders and unit 4 awaiting cladding of the cylinders. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Here are the insides of the cladding sheets pre=formed to shape and tinned with 145 deg solder . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr The cladding was installed using the RSU. It was aligned with the cylinder front and rear profiles using fingers and then the top is zapped into place using the RSU. This did result in some warm fingers but was the best way to get things lined up. The top of the cladding overlays the footplate valances on the power units and so it was convenient place to do the initial soldering. The top of the cladding was bent slightly accomodate the angle between the cylinder profile and the valence. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Note that the RSU probe was pressed into place at each of the points where the screw heads were on the half etched wrapper. This mimics the way the cladding is pulled down onto the cast cylinders on the real thing. ALso note how closely the loose cladding fits the cylinder profile etch. Once correctly aligned and soldered at the top, the cladding was pressed down and soldered to the profiles, proceeding one screw head at a time on alternate sides of the cladding to avoid distortion due to the heat, working down the sides and underneath the cylinders. Note, there is a small gap between the cladding and the loco frames at the bottom of the cylinders. Where some large gaps remained, these were filled with Carrs 188 deg Solder paste, which was heated to form a solid bond. This was also used at the ends of the cladding underneath the frames, to re-inforce the cladding joint and stop it "unzipping". Its good stuff and very useful. After cleaning up, we have one completed power unit, as shown below. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr The cladding is a little shiney in these photo's, as I used a wire wheel to polish them up and clean up any excess solder. Finally, the completed loco (not a great photo) . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Looks good to me and as i said, a big pshycological step. I now need to clean up and drill the valve guides, before they are sweated into place, though these probabaly won't be installed until the valve gear is added. I want a bit of a break from VG first and plan to do a few other things for light relief such as rebuild and fit the ash pan, make and fit buffer support brackets behind the buffer beams (not included in the kit and need to find my drawing), make and fit brakes, buffers and coupling hooks. Still, I'm very happy with things and am beginning to feel that I'm progressing with it. Edited August 15, 2017 by PhilMortimer 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 Phil, Looking very nice. I'm not going to get to Telford this year due to a cock-up in the family holidays precipitated by A level results and a minor calendrical error, however, I am reliably informed that the frames for my solitary engine (I still marvel at you building two) will come to fruition soon thereafter. I've been reading about various people doing dead-rail r/c battery power with DCC sound, and there is an article in the most recent Gazette. As the Garratt is most definitely private owner, rather than my main interest of 30's GWR, it seems like an ideal opportunity to do something alternative. Adds to the mayhem when one takes it to others' layouts too.... to mitigate against this, I have, as you may recall, spent no little time installing split axles and insulated, brass lined axleboxes. Decisions, decisions... Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 Thanks Simon, But surely you are a bit beyond A levels now? Anyhow, I'm relieved to have gotten to this stage. If I were to do this again ("No, don't make me......"), I would do things differently, probabaly making up the cylinders BEFORE adding to the frames, using the cladding to space them out correctly, and seperating the fold up frames from the integral rear spacer (as suggested by David Smith a while back), tacking them together to ensure that L and R are identical, and using turned spacers to set the frames up parallel before soldering in the rear spacer and the cylinders. I've never had a problem with fold up frames before, and wasn't expecting one this time. Still, I guess I live and learn. Apparently, according to Diane, this is "character building"!? It will be interesting to see your milled frames. probably will make life easier in the long run. And as for R/C - also will be interesting (and quite plrototypical, as the loco will have to return to the shed periodically for refueling with electrons......). Never been to the Telford show, though I've heard its worth it. Never back in the UK at the right time........ ATB, PM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKR Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 Phil I've really enjoyed your thread and your comments. It's one of the locos I would love to have. Any more suggestions on the build progression gratefully received. Regards, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 (edited) This is coming on beautifully Phil! (and still two of them....!) It may help to lengthen the driving crank-pin to make like easier when it comes to the valve-gear (so it all stays straight). I introduced a plain spacing bush between coupling rod and connecting rod to keep them parallel. Garratt Crank Pin by giles favell, on Flickr Garratt Chassis by giles favell, on Flickr Edited August 16, 2017 by Giles 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted August 16, 2017 Author Share Posted August 16, 2017 Phil I've really enjoyed your thread and your comments. It's one of the locos I would love to have. Any more suggestions on the build progression gratefully received. Regards, Thanks for your interest and support. I'm glad the build is useful to someone and that people are interested. I will continue to document the build as I proceed. If you do intend to build one of these, make sure you are of a strong disposition....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted August 16, 2017 Author Share Posted August 16, 2017 This is coming on beautifully Phil! (and still two of them....!) It may help to lengthen the driving crank-pin to make like easier when it comes to the valve-gear (so it all stays straight). I introduced a plain spacing bush between coupling rod and connecting rod to keep them parallel. Garratt Crank Pin by giles favell, on Flickr Garratt Chassis by giles favell, on Flickr Thanks Giles, I have done something simmilar to space out the conrod from the coupling rod, and so straighten things out. There is a balance between pushing the big end out out too far, with the result that the rod strikes the motion bracket at the end of its stroke, and the rod being ridiculously angled. I have filed back the motion bracket somewhat and there may be a bit more room to do extra, but I can't file too much off without serioiusly weakening the bracket. To space the con rod from the coupling rod, I have used 1mm thick Alan Gibson 2 mm dia bushes drilled out to accept the inverted bush that holds the rod to the crankpin. Looking at the loco on the track, there is still a light angle to the con rods, but not nearly as noticable and probably an acceptable compromise. The above pictures are extremly useful in showing the extra details added and also how you have fitted the pickups. Very useful. Many Thanks for all your support and assitance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted August 18, 2017 Author Share Posted August 18, 2017 Yesterday, everything I touched went wrong. Some days you just have to quit the WB and come back to it again tomorrow. Went to bed and read a good book instead! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 Indeed, yes, some 40 years past A levels, but very pleased to report 3 straight A's for MasterD, who is following Dad's footsteps into Mech Eng. Never mind about the bad day at the WB - tomorrow will be better!! Best Simon 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 (edited) Not a lot of progress at present. Life keeps getting in the way. I have quite a lot of volunteer work over the next couple of weeks and the hot weather is not helping (I'm ususally pretty toasted after a day working outside out in the heat and humidity). Family will also be visiting, so that will cramp my style for a bit. Still, I did manage to cut out the plates for the undersides of the frames in the vicinity of the cylinders. The rivets were bomped out on these, and also on teh guard-irons, ready for fitting.I need to figure out how to make the steam pipes to and from the cylinders between the frames, before fitting the platework, as they are very visible in the opening on the real loco. Probabaly need to see if I can scrounge some offcuts of small copper tube from work..... P Edited August 24, 2017 by PhilMortimer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted August 31, 2017 Author Share Posted August 31, 2017 The underside plates have been bent up to shape. Not really exciting, just used the bending bars. However, as mentioned above, before I can fit them, I am trying to make a respresentation of the steam pipes, which are quite visible from teh front, as shown in this picture of the real thing (courtesy of Phil Parker). https://www.flickr.c...57640174384343/ My first attempt using annealed 1/8" copper tube was a spectacular failure and I ended up with lots of squashed little bits of copper pipe. But I think I now have a plan how to do this, which is based on the fact that some of these steam pipes are lagged. More trials tonight......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 Phil For bending copper tube, you might try annealing it, then fluxing heavily, and filling with solder. You can then bend the tube with no fear of it collapsing. You can melt out the solder afterwards, if you're doing a live steam version Alternatively, find a friendly power engineer, and scrounge some heavy copper wire ends. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted August 31, 2017 Author Share Posted August 31, 2017 (edited) Hi Simon, Thanks for the suggestions. The problem is that there are some tight bends there which were too hard to form in the tube or rod of the correct diameter. However, I was thinking in terms of your suggestion #2, i.e. using thinner wire as an ammature, which is then wrapped tobring it up to full size whilst at the same time simulating the lagging. Alternatively, a suitable shapped piece of pipe cleaner might do. More experiments after barn duties tonight. Edited August 31, 2017 by PhilMortimer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 Pipe cleaner... mmmm, not convinced. If the copper is well annealed (even if solid) and it's long enough to get a grip on, I'm sure you can wrangle it into shape. Bends of radius roughly 1 diameter should be do-able, and tighter might need a second annealing. Anneal - red hot & quench - please forgive me if teaching granny... Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted September 1, 2017 Author Share Posted September 1, 2017 (edited) Hi Simon, Thaks for the thoughts. No problem about teaching granny, though in fact I had already annealed the tube a couple of times. but still had problems with the bend. Possibly my torch didn't get the metal hot enoguh for long enough, though it did have a dull glow before quenching. Might need to bring my MAPP torch home from work! All ideas are welcome! Anyhow, in terms of experimentation, the following occurred last night. 1) A test fit of the pipe-cleaner didn't actually look as naff as I thought it might tucked under there. the idea isn't quite dead yet. 2) I made a test piece of the steam pipe splitter, which worked out OK, but needs cutting to size. Not sure if this is the way forward though. 3) Ideally, these steam pipes would be better as castings rather than fabricated from tube. However, i don't know of any castings. I'm going to fit one of the underside panels to see how visible things really are in there. A couple of possibilities are that these may be fabricated from plastic rod (ugh!, but easier to bend and stick together) and inserted in after completion of assembly and painting. Alternatively, D suggested using plumbers solder to form trhe pipes, due to its flexibility and ease of bending. Or I could forget the whole thing........ More as I know myself! Edited September 1, 2017 by PhilMortimer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted September 1, 2017 Share Posted September 1, 2017 Actually, using very thick solder might be an excellent solution. (Says he, filing it mentally for the future ) Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted September 1, 2017 Author Share Posted September 1, 2017 I love it when Diane shows an interest in my projects...... Just did some experiments twisting plumbers solder into tight turns - much easier! Now to see if I can use low melt to solder it together without it melting...... P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted September 2, 2017 Author Share Posted September 2, 2017 Initial experiments with the plumbers solder very successful. A prototype was soldered together with 100 degree solder and temperature controlled iron at 220 deg C. The resulting assembly was then bent to approximate shape freehand and looks quite good located in the frames. I will make some real ones using jigs to get the angles correct and bends consistent. But I think this will work. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 No, I 'm not dead ( though I'm sure that some of my colleagues would wish that were so!). Work and family visits have severely impacted my ability to work on the builds. However, all being well, normal service will resume later this week! PM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now