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Brassmasters Royal Scot


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A few photos showing the progress of the Royal Scot chassis. I have made the cylinder unit and the spring/brakes unit as separate units. The cylinder assembly just slots on to the chassis. The brake gear assembly screws into the chassis from below, rather than above as the instructions indicate. Screwing in from the bottom requires six 10ba bolts. The kit instructions use twelve 14ba bolts screwed in from the top, a very fiddly operation!

 

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The top view shows the six threaded bushes for the brakes and the forward one for the front bogie.

 

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Finally the spring/brake assembly. Once fitted the axle bushes are located securely.

 

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Hope it all works in the end!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just found two etches that are supposed to fit on the bogie beams. Problem was I used the wider bogie as we don't have any tight curves. This was as recommended in the instructions. To widen the bogie any more is not possible. I have already had to omit a couple of spacing washers. I wish I had used the narrow version of the bogie, but there is no going back now. Getting less and less impressed with this kit as I go along.

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  • 5 months later...

Well. The Brassmasters Royal Scot is almost finished. I was not happy with this kit at all. The balance seemed all wrong. Being a resin boiler and firebox there was not enough weight in the model to compress the springs. The motor is mounted on the central axle and is unsprung weight. Getting weight in the firebox and cab is almost impossible to balance the model. I have now fixed the rear axle and added weight to the front to try to bring the model down on the springs. Not sure if the finished model will run properly. We will see.

 

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post-8613-0-93710400-1492676678_thumb.jpg

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Despite the trials reported, that's a fine looking result that has been achieved. It captures the solid and purposeful appearance of the class and shows off the late LMS lining scheme very well I think.

 

Is articulation of the tender to apply weight to the loco rear, feasible as a solution to the lack of weight in the boiler and firebox?

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Looks alright from here. The smokebox numberplate is a bit high at present, and needs repositioning between the top strap and the door handles.

 

Just as well you confirmed the problem of insufficient weight - it may be that the standard coil springs supplied are too stiff. The only other thing I can think of is to try the CSB system, but it's a bit late for that now.

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Looks alright from here. The smokebox numberplate is a bit high at present, and needs repositioning between the top strap and the door handles.

 

Just as well you confirmed the problem of insufficient weight - it may be that the standard coil springs supplied are too stiff. The only other thing I can think of is to try the CSB system, but it's a bit late for that now.

 

True. The number plate is too high. I may be able to move it at this stage. Thanks.  CSB System?

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True. The number plate is too high. I may be able to move it at this stage. Thanks.  CSB System?

CSB stands for Continuous Springy Beam. Instead of having individual springs on each axle, the axles are linked via guitar wire along the length of the frames. It has the effect of being somewhere between true springing, which you have hear, and compensation. One advantage is that once it's installed, the spring rate can be adjusted simply by changing the diameter of the wire.

Lots of pictures here, including one of mine. http://www.clag.org.uk/csb-gallery.html

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As far as I understand it Brassmasters use a springing system where the loco frame rests solidly on the bearings with springs depressed all the way. In which case you may have got the wrong set of springs. I'd contact Brassmasters about it.

C,-w

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CSB stands for Continuous Springy Beam. Instead of having individual springs on each axle, the axles are linked via guitar wire along the length of the frames. It has the effect of being somewhere between true springing, which you have hear, and compensation. One advantage is that once it's installed, the spring rate can be adjusted simply by changing the diameter of the wire.

Lots of pictures here, including one of mine. http://www.clag.org.uk/csb-gallery.html

 

Ah yes. I have done the LMS jackshaft diesel shunter using that method. It worked well.

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As far as I understand it Brassmasters use a springing system where the loco frame rests solidly on the bearings with springs depressed all the way. In which case you may have got the wrong set of springs. I'd contact Brassmasters about it.

C,-w

Yes the springs should be compressed but to do it that needs a lot of weight in the centre of the loco chassis. My motor is in the way and there is not much room inside the lightweight resin boiler/firebox. I have contacted Brassmasters previously regarding the steering springs in the front bogie. Their response was total rubbish. I am about to do the Brassmasters Princess and I have learned a lot doing this Scot. Probably do it with beam compensation on the leading and centre axle. Problem with that is being a sprung chassis  the axle neutral position is at the top of the horn block slot. Compensation needs the axles to be in the centre of the slot. If I do that the loco footplate may be a little high. Could just do it solid!!!!

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As far as I understand it Brassmasters use a springing system where the loco frame rests solidly on the bearings with springs depressed all the way. In which case you may have got the wrong set of springs. I'd contact Brassmasters about it.

C,-w

I dont think this is the case. The springs should sit half compressed, so that each wheel can move up or down in relation to the rest of them.

 

This is why springing systems are preferable to compensation with a fixed axle, as the loco should never lurch if 1 wheel drops or rises.

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