RMweb Premium Gary H Posted January 16, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 16, 2017 Pretty much as title really, how difficult is it to remove on specificlly, a Deltic please? What can safely be used to remove it? What I'm afraid of is leaving it shiny where its been removed. Any advise is appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew F Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 Are you going to re -weather it or do you want it pristine? You could try rubbing it with IPA or white spirit. I've removed Bacjhmann weathering with Acetone (nail-varnish remover) on a cotton bud but you may damage the paintwork with that. Personally I'd remove the weathering with T-cut it and some finishing paper, then make the whole side shiny as they were shiny in real life, then weather it again if I wanted a mucky 'un. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted January 16, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 16, 2017 This Hornby 31 started out factory weathered. I removed the weathering with T-Cut and cotton buds, them sprayed the resulting (gloss) finish with Testors Dullcote after the transfers had been applied. Would expect the same to be possible on your Bachmann Deltic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted January 16, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2017 Are you going to re -weather it or do you want it pristine? You could try rubbing it with IPA or white spirit. I've removed Bacjhmann weathering with Acetone (nail-varnish remover) on a cotton bud but you may damage the paintwork with that. Personally I'd remove the weathering with T-cut it and some finishing paper, then make the whole side shiny as they were shiny in real life, then weather it again if I wanted a mucky 'un. Full strength IPA attacks Bachmann paint, too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cravensdmufan Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 Got a pair of S/H factory weathered Bachmann 20's a few weeks ago. Bachmann's weathering was much too uniform all over the body sides and bogies, and all the same colour! Using neat IPA on a cotton bud, I removed a lot. It took the numbers and double arrows off the cabsides OK (intentional, as I want to relocate the logo and renumber!). I don't want pristine locos so I am pleased with the effect. Will then lightly re-weather using powders once I get them renumbered. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted January 16, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2017 Can echo what has been said. White spirit on a cotton bud is effective and controllable - have also just done a green weathered 20 , what is left is a good base for further weathering too Is just too uniform as factory applied Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cravensdmufan Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 I fancy having a go at cleaning up a Bachmann Class 40 97 407, but reckon I'd have my work cut out.....plus I've got this thing about attacking a full price loco. So here's hoping this particular one may crop up on a "special offer" sometime in the future. Fingers crossed! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theakerr Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 Suggest you might want to be very careful with T-Cut. I am currently renumbering a Bachmann Class 40 and have found that the decals get very soft when T-cut is applied and start to dissolve very quickly. I cannot vouch for Bachmann but in the case of Hornby I suspect the "weathering" is a simple light airbrush job and relatively easy to remove. I say this because for the horrible weathered Hornby K2 I was able to remove the weathering and leave the lining etc intact through the use of Tamiya paint thinner on a bud. Will be interested in your results because I also have a weathered Deltic that I am not too impressed with (but the price was right) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted January 17, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2017 Micro Sol might work. It certainly removes home-applied enamels very gently. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRUNFOS Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 This Hornby 31 had the weathering partly removed with blue T-cut on a cotton bud worked vertically down the bodyside, this left the weathering paint in the gills and around the raised detail. After renumbering a coat of matt varnish was applied. I assume the same process will work for Bachmann stock. I believe some of the Deltic models have printed panels, they will presumably disappear. Paul. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted January 17, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 17, 2017 This Hornby 31 had the weathering partly removed with blue T-cut on a cotton bud worked vertically down the bodyside, this left the weathering paint in the gills and around the raised detail. After renumbering a coat of matt varnish was applied. I assume the same process will work for Bachmann stock. I believe some of the Deltic models have printed panels, they will presumably disappear. 31.jpg Paul. Probably not with white spirit Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 I used t cut on 37242 to remove Bachmann s factory weathering. It will of course rapidly remove markings and numbers, so I had to use fox stuff to restore the mainline logos . Main issue with t cut is making sure all of it is washed away with water afterwards as it leaves a white residue in nooks and crannies Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew F Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 The trick is to have the cloth/bud quite dry; maybe dab it on newspaper before rubbing the model to avoid getting the liquid into grilles etc. The T-cut does most of it's cutting when drier too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gary H Posted January 17, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2017 Thank you for all your feedback guys, much appreciated . Ive now got alot to go on. I have IPA, Microsol, white spirit and a cutting compound. I may try white spirit to start off with and see how it goes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cravensdmufan Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Thank you for all your feedback guys, much appreciated . Ive now got alot to go on. I have IPA, Microsol, white spirit and a cutting compound. I may try white spirit to start off with and see how it goes. Let us know how you get on! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theakerr Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Well I go bored and decided to have a go at my Deltic. Tamiya solvent did not work, for the initial removal. T-cut did especially if left on for a few minutes prior to rubbing with some hard cotton buds obtained from a local electronics store. The T-cut did leave some streaks but I was able to remove these by wiping down with a soft fluffy cotton bud soaked in Tamiya solvent. I also removed part of a BR symbol with the solvent soaked soft cotton bud because the t-cut had softened the transfer and it "just wiped off". Se my previous post. The "weathering" on the lower green of the deltic appears to be composed of at least two colours, one of which is distinctly reddish and is difficult to remove 100%, One point of note is that the axle bearing boxes, which in all the pictures I have seen of Deltics are a sort of orange/yellow colour with a red stripe through it (to denote roller bearings I believe) is plain black. You can even so some traces of this in pretty grimy locos and is therefore rather characteristic, so I will have to add said detail. Overall, I am pretty pleased with the result and after a new transfer, possibly new number and name and a gentle misting with a brown/black wash, I think it will look OK. For some reason the photo caption is missing, but the 1st picture shows one side before cleaning and the 2nd photo shows the other side after cleaning. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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