WaysideWorks Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 Working on a limited budget plasticard would seem an obvious choice. A sheet of wood panel (plank) inscribed plasticard for the main body to save money the same sheet could be used reverse side for the chassis and skirt and maybe a second sheet of 10thou plasticard for the window framing and body panel details, cow catchers etc. If your a tight git like me you can save the clear plastic off blister packs for glazing. I am very much of a tight git, but how would I do the roof? With brass or something? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 20, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 20, 2018 (edited) For £32.50 you could buy the silver fox bodyshell for the J70 which is a bit bigger but similar.... http://silverfoxmodels.co.uk/ger-class-c53-lner-class-j70-br-class-y6-steam-tram-loco/ If you already have the Caley pug that's probably the easiest way! Edited November 20, 2018 by Corbs 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted November 20, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 20, 2018 I made this from plasticard, plastic rod and some etched handwheels and bits of copper wire. WingTank 038.jpg WingTank-040.jpg The level of craftsmanship from the members of this forum never ceases to amaze me Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaysideWorks Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 For £32.50 you could buy the silver fox bodyshell for the J70 which is a bit bigger but similar.... http://silverfoxmodels.co.uk/ger-class-c53-lner-class-j70-br-class-y6-steam-tram-loco/ If you already have the Caley pug that's probably the easiest way! That's the thing, I want to make it myself. I also have no bloody idea how to order from that website, anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 20, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 20, 2018 It says how to on the front page: http://silverfoxmodels.co.uk/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alastairq Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 For £32.50 you could buy the silver fox bodyshell for the J70 which is a bit bigger but similar.... http://silverfoxmodels.co.uk/ger-class-c53-lner-class-j70-br-class-y6-steam-tram-loco/ If you already have the Caley pug that's probably the easiest way! Plus a fiver for the post...? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaysideWorks Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 (edited) Ah, I’ve been looking around on the interwebs and I noticed an A4 sheet of plasticard (1mm) thick. Is that good? Or should I go a bit thicker? Edited November 20, 2018 by WaysideWorks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 (edited) Ah, I’ve been looking around on the interwebs and I noticed an A4 sheet of plasticard (1mm) thick. Is that good? Or should I go a bit thicker? It depends on what you want to use it for. 1mm represents 3 inches (or 75mm) to a scale of 4mm per foot. It would be suitable for footplates, buffer beams and the like but too thick for any components which would need to be bent. Worth having though, just for stock. Edited November 21, 2018 by Dickon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaysideWorks Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 It depends on what you want to use it for. 1mm represents 3 inches (or 75mm) to a scale of 4mm per foot. It would be suitable for footplates, buffer beams and the like but to thick for any components which would need to be bent. Worth having though, just for stock. Would it be good for the wood that makes up the "cab"? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Would it be good for the wood that makes up the "cab"? Hi WaysideWorks, Is this any use to you ? Gibbo. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaysideWorks Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Hi WaysideWorks, Is this any use to you ? 24cb4a131700e70c9ff900f210048ef9.jpg Gibbo. Oh wow! Thanks man! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Londontram Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 (edited) I am very much of a tight git, but how would I do the roof? With brass or something? When I build roofs for wagons or carriages I usually take two bits of oversize 10 thou plasticard and laminate them together with a slow acting liquid Polly cement like Limonene (other makes available) this I leave to dry overnight wrapped round a Pringles tube held in place with elastic bands when dry its hard and retains the shape and can be trimmed to fit. If you want it stronger but not to thick try a bit of 20 thou and 10 thou instead. Edited November 21, 2018 by Londontram 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Hi WaysideWorks, Is this any use to you ? 24cb4a131700e70c9ff900f210048ef9.jpg Gibbo. H Folks, Three more links to compliment the above; https://www.lner.info/locos/Y/y6.php https://www.lner.info/locos/J/j70.php I would think that by using the leading dimensions and photographs that the above drawing might be adapted successfully. The Dapol / Hornby L&Y pug would be the best chassis to build from as it has similar wheel diameters and wheel base. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/L%26YR_Class_21 Gibbo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 If modelling the 0-4-0 G15 with the skirts in situ, I wonder if there is any particular advantage to using a loco chassis? A motor bogie with 12mm wheels and a 26mm wheelbase would be a better fit than even the L&Y Pug, and the lack of motion and the use of disc wheels would not matter. Admittedly this might blow your budget at c.£45. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaysideWorks Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 If modelling the 0-4-0 G15 with the skirts in situ, I wonder if there is any particular advantage to using a loco chassis? A motor bogie with 12mm wheels and a 26mm wheelbase would be a better fit than even the L&Y Pug, and the lack of motion and the use of disc wheels would not matter. Admittedly this might blow your budget at c.£45. You're right, but as you said: It will blow my budget. And I already have a spare Caley Pug, so y'know, all I need now is the materials for the rest of the ruddy thing and then I can be on my way. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaysideWorks Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 H Folks, Three more links to compliment the above; https://www.lner.info/locos/Y/y6.php https://www.lner.info/locos/J/j70.php I would think that by using the leading dimensions and photographs that the above drawing might be adapted successfully. The Dapol / Hornby L&Y pug would be the best chassis to build from as it has similar wheel diameters and wheel base. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/L%26YR_Class_21 Gibbo. The L&Y pug is way too expensive. I'm only 15, you know! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 21, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 21, 2018 This might be a silly suggestion, but if cash is a factor, then what you could do is make a cardboard mock-up using cereal packets etc, so you can work out exactly how much styrene you need, and how you plan to mount it on the chassis, and you can get all that development work out of the way without using the styrene etc. which costs money? What I'm thinking is you could get your eye in with the cheap cardboard as practice? 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo675 Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 The L&Y pug is way too expensive. I'm only 15, you know! Hi WaysideWorks, I was fifteen once but that was nearly 44 years ago !!! What I would suggest is to follow the advice given by Corbs, using cardboard is cheap and easy and will allow for cock ups not to be an expensive problem. You may be able to make mock ups that fit the chassis that you have before you start your actual model. There is nothing wrong with card as a medium for the subject you have chosen it would work very well. I would suggest that the shiny side of a cornflakes box would do for the steel components and the inside rougher side gives slight texture for the wooden parts, planking could be represented by using a fine ball point pen and a rule. Should you archive the information for when you are older and have the money you could have another go at a more accurate model with the added bonus that your skill set will have expanded. Post photos of your progress and you will get plenty of hints of tips if you ask for assistance. I have all sorts of stuff that I made when I was a lad and it makes me smile despite some of it not being the best ! Good luck, Gibbo. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Would it be good for the wood that makes up the "cab"? It's probably a bit thick for that. You can also buy plasticard sheet with one side embossed to look like anything from brick or stone to wooden planks in all different scales. A wood textured plasticard of about 0.5mm thickness would be excellent for your cab sides. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poor Old Bruce Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 A motor bogie with 12mm wheels and a 26mm wheelbase would be a better fit than even the L&Y Pug, and the lack of motion and the use of disc wheels would not matter. Admittedly this might blow your budget at c.£45. It should be appreciated that motor bogies like Tenshodo SPUDs are intended for railcar usage. They move at railcar speeds, not at roadside tramway speeds. I did once see a Sentinel steam shunter at an exhibition which was whizzing backwards and forwards at silly speeds due to its SPUD power unit. A better option IMO would be a High Level Kits Flyshunter chassis although that too may blow Wayside's budget but something to bear in mind. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaysideWorks Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 It should be appreciated that motor bogies like Tenshodo SPUDs are intended for railcar usage. They move at railcar speeds, not at roadside tramway speeds. I did once see a Sentinel steam shunter at an exhibition which was whizzing backwards and forwards at silly speeds due to its SPUD power unit. A better option IMO would be a High Level Kits Flyshunter chassis although that too may blow Wayside's budget but something to bear in mind. Oh, I'm not really aiming too much for realism. My layout is a preserved line and well, the Y6 isn't preserved! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 21, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 21, 2018 Well there’s realism by having locos that were preserved and there’s realism by having machines move how they are supposed to. The realism they are referring to is the second one, Tenshodo Spuds are not good for shunting locos as they just zoom around all the time and aren’t capable of anything else. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Oh, I'm not really aiming too much for realism. My layout is a preserved line and well, the Y6 isn't preserved! A lack of realism such as a loco that is not entirely true to the prototype is one thing and is very much the fun part of pug bashing. However you might get irritated by a little loco that can only fly around like a demented wasp. If I were you I'd save money by using a second hand Caley pug chassis. You can pick them very cheaply, they are easy to take apart and they run suitably slowly to look realistic on a branch line tram. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaysideWorks Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 This might be a silly suggestion, but if cash is a factor, then what you could do is make a cardboard mock-up using cereal packets etc, so you can work out exactly how much styrene you need, and how you plan to mount it on the chassis, and you can get all that development work out of the way without using the styrene etc. which costs money? What I'm thinking is you could get your eye in with the cheap cardboard as practice? Very good idea! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barclay Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Yes the Caley Pug is quite a smooth runner though it will go like a rocket if you turn the power up too far ! Unless you use thick plasticard I would make sure you brace it well inside to prevent warping in the future - I made a body for Kerr Stuart KS4421 when I was about your age and 35 years later it's a bit wavy.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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