MarcD Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Point motors mmmmm there ae a number of choices Peco can be side mounted using their mounting plate. if your points have springs in then used the un-sprung plate. seep motors have a good reputation but I've never used them tortoise good but expensive and they do take up a lot of room blue point motors cross between a point motor and wire and tube. marc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dagworth Posted April 9, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 9, 2017 Point motors mmmmm there ae a number of choices Peco can be side mounted using their mounting plate. if your points have springs in then used the un-sprung plate. seep motors have a good reputation but I've never used them tortoise good but expensive and they do take up a lot of room blue point motors cross between a point motor and wire and tube. marc Can the Peco surface mount motors be used? http://www.hattons.co.uk/23750/Peco_Products_PL_11_Side_surface_mounted_point_motor/StockDetail.aspx you may need to mount them slightly down into the cork Andi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcD Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 The should be ok without cutting into the cork as long as the points are level with the bottom of the mounting plate. I used them on my 0-9 "Crackpot Mining" layout The motors are mounted in the hill side. Marc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 Thanks guys, I will probably order a couple of the peco motors (pictured) as I can see me having the same issue further along the track: In this pic the green arrow is the hole I've already drilled and the red one is the next to be made. It runs along parallel to the bracing, but both of these sets of points won't be visible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Kazmierczak Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Ray, you appear to have made more progress in a week, than a certain "professional" outfit did in 18 months. Well done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 Cheers, Although I've just seen this on Hattons webpage: "N gauge points will need to be raised by approx 2mm for the drivebar to engage correctly with the tiebar." Hmmmmm. So, would that involve packing under the the whole of the point section of track? And would that result in a "bump" in the track. I suppose my other option would be to cut out a piece of the cork underlay (4mm) to accommodate the motor then put something 2mm in the recess. In effect lowering the motor by 2mm as oppose to raising the track? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted April 10, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 10, 2017 I suppose my other option would be to cut out a piece of the cork underlay (4mm) to accommodate the motor then put something 2mm in the recess. In effect lowering the motor by 2mm as oppose to raising the track? There you go, answered your own question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aac Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 These were stored flat and I did choose them as far as not taking the one on the top that had a bit of a warp. It was the next day after being left on the floor in my shed that one turned into a skateboard jump, I never bought it like that. My local Wickes/B&Q stores them on the rack laying on two slats and they make you feel sea sick looking at them. I understand - it's the slats that do it, because the wood's weight sags in between them. Once I've bought it, if not to be used for a few days, I lay it on the floor under a rug. It's out of the way and encouraged to stay flat. Ply and hardboard can be frustrating stuff, and expensive if they play up. aac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted April 10, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 10, 2017 Ply and hardboard can be frustrating stuff, and expensive if they play up. Quality ply isn't a problem, I've got sheets, half sheets and offcuts in the workshop that lean against the wall as I haven't the space to lay them flat, and they exhibit no problems. The cheaper grades of ply have voids as well as mismatched layers which make it unstable. Some of this ply is actually cheaper than it was 10-15 years ago and really is a case of you get what you pay for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 Ok, I've ordered 2 x PL11's from Hattons... :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dagworth Posted April 10, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 10, 2017 Cheers, Although I've just seen this on Hattons webpage: "N gauge points will need to be raised by approx 2mm for the drivebar to engage correctly with the tiebar." Hmmmmm. So, would that involve packing under the the whole of the point section of track? And would that result in a "bump" in the track. I suppose my other option would be to cut out a piece of the cork underlay (4mm) to accommodate the motor then put something 2mm in the recess. In effect lowering the motor by 2mm as oppose to raising the track? Can the Peco surface mount motors be used? http://www.hattons.co.uk/23750/Peco_Products_PL_11_Side_surface_mounted_point_motor/StockDetail.aspx you may need to mount them slightly down into the cork Andi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 Sorry Andi! You're quite right. I'll let you know how I get on when they arrive... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vespa Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 How is the layout going? I got your PM why not put it's content on here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knottyAl Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 Your fix for direct link from a surface mount Peco point motor is perfectly Ok. Other plain top baseboard users can link the drive to the point tiebar with a short length of piano wire bent up at both ends and threaded into the holes. To keep the ends upright, form a Z or omega loop shape to slide flat on the board. No raising of the point is then required, if the upright parts are long enough to engage the drive bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ikks Posted May 20, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 20, 2017 Ray, Looking at the quality of your workman ship have you ever thought about turning professional at the base board business? If the start of your layout is anything to go with you should have a really great layout in no time. Keep going. Marc Much better than that turkey who built your "professionally" commissioned baseboard....... looks great good luck with your build Rgds..........Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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