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Brambleford Layout - Retaining wall


nicolasgreenin
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Hi all,

 

Not that much progress since last week we have had plenty of running the powerbase is working well I need to order another pack to complete the remaining loop and 1 of the original inclines. 

 

I have been wiring the points in slowly.  I have realised that our mimic panel is not correct but since SCRAM now requires a license I am not sure I can justify the cost for 1 small change.

 

The kadee conversion continues my son doesn't like and needs more convincing before we convert.

 

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Just fell over this thread as Jaggzuk gave a link to it. Really nice and really fast... Now I am ashamed about my production speed...

Looking forward to more progress reports.

Vecchio

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Hi NittenDormer,

 

I have 3% gradients all on curves and before I installed the powerbase the layout was all but unusable now I have installed the powerbase on all the gradients it is great.

 

My main test loco is a Hornby Railroad class 47 wich before the install would not pull up 1 coach but now is happy with  4 coaches and some trucks.

 

I highly recommend it.

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I got fed up with the lack of rolling stock storage on the layout we only have 1 rake of 4 coaches and none of the sidings are long enough to house them.

 

so I have added a crude fiddle yard. The entrance will be hidden by a loco shed or coaling station at some point but it does give the ability to store 2 rakes of coaches

 

post-31637-0-78308400-1507281397_thumb.jpg

 

post-31637-0-57983100-1507281403_thumb.jpg

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Ah the classic layout creep! ;-) But with a nice large railway room like you have, why not.

 

I totally agree with you on the lack of storage on the 8x4/10x4 we have. I always had the plan to also add a fiddle yard one day which is why there are hidden points in the tunnels on my layout.

 

Even the simple yard you have will offer considerable operational flexibility so a good addition.

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  • 2 months later...

It has been a while since I have made any updates to this thread. Progress has slowed somewhat mainly due to my new job being so busy and partly now the layout works and the kids can play on it most of the time is spent playing not building. But it has become more and more annoying that the layout is basically just 1 big loop as the 2 lines cross over you can only run in 1 direction and normally only 1 train unless you time it perfectly which never happens. So I am thinking of making a few changes to uncross the 2 lines to allow independent running on the 2 loops. I will post some photos to show the progress and thoughts soon.

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See the current track plan

 

post-31637-0-20987500-1513594257_thumb.jpg

 

and the proposed

 

post-31637-0-97254900-1513594729_thumb.jpg

 

This change will give us 2 independent loops and allow for 2 trains to run at the same time.

 

I hope this will be simple to achieve without damaging the inclines.

 

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated as I am sure I have forgotten something.

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You are right, it is a no brainier. The only issue you may have is that the ramp gets shorter now as it is at a smaller radius. What gradient are you using? 3% or 4%? (I suppose these are woodland scenics inclines you are using)

Edited by Vecchio
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This looks much more workable than the previous loop and will offer better two train running.  It does all look rather familiar ;-)

 

Just curious how to you get into the tunnel at the back once all the scenery has been added for derailments?

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Both tracks are now open again and it makes the layout much more usable being able to run 2 trains in opposite directions. It has highlighted a few other clearance issues that need to be resolved. I have added a few more dropper wires in too. There are 3 points that need to be wired. Then I will not have any excuses not to work on the scenery!

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  • 2 weeks later...

We had a good few days of work on the layout.

 

post-31637-0-75776700-1514904173_thumb.jpg

 

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I had help from the kids with the painting, grass and ballasting we are not the best but it looks good. 

 

I think we may have overdone the ballast a little and the static grass is not standing up I am not sure what I have done wrong my homemade static grass applicator goes give a good charge (as I found out the hard way when I put my hand on the track) but the grass does not seem to stand up very well, unless I go over it with the applicator very close to the fallen grass but this normally ends up with me waving the applicator too low and digging a hole in the grass...

 

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Any thoughts please let me know.

 

 

We also had fiddle yard envy so have added 2 new tracks which have pleased my son no end.

 

post-31637-0-53502600-1514904181_thumb.jpg

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We also had fiddle yard envy so have added 2 new tracks which have pleased my son no end.

 

 

 

I hope we have not causes this ;-)  But the addition of a fiddle yard will be good for your storage/running operations.

 

Your revised track plan looks so much better and should allow better running options.

 

The scenic are coming on well, always a big leap forward when the grass arrives.  I have very little experience on static grass (I have yet to use my applicator on the layout, so far only on samples) but one thought I have is how close was your earthing pin/contact wire on the layout scenery to the actual area you were applying the grass too?  I would keep it as close as possible.

 

Now our fiddle yard build is now working, I must get on with our landscape scenery....

 

Looking forward to the next update.

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Hi Paul,

 

The fiddle yard expansion was always on the cards...

 

On another note I have been trying to convert some of our good stock to Kadee couplings and it is going well I have hit an issue with a my Hornby J78 as the screw mounts for the tension lock are part of the metal chassis of the loco and at the same height as requited for the kadee. I have ended up cutting a kadee and trying to glue it on but the super glue does not stick so I have turned to epoxy but it is not going off! so I will leave it over night.

 

I have also found a small issue that I will have to over come and that is that as my loco's have magnets on them to help with the incline traction this plays havoc when running over magnets in the track for uncoupling, basically they get stuck! :banghead:

 

I am really not happy with the ballasting the grass is ok and does looks better in real life if not a little flat.

 

As for the static grass applicator, the ground is only a few inches away and when I shocked myself my hand was a good few feet from the ground and it made me jump....   

 

Thanks

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Since I weathered my J78 it has never run the same and it has not been used for some time so today I had a look. Today it would hardly move a few judders if pushed so I took it apart to find the back of the wheels were black so I have cleaned them up and it made very little difference!  Following that I thought it must be the decoder so I fitted a spare with a small keep alive and it is better but still not well. It runs better backwards that forwards

 

 

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https://youtu.be/xHH12DAI2cA

 

apologies for the bad video

 

 

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Oh dear that does not look well.  It looks like you have hard wired the decoder so I guess you cannot do a test run on DC with out the decoder attached?

 

It does look like it is poor electrical contacts somewhere.  Have you checked the motor bushes?  the other think is to oil the baring and moving parts, was there the risk that some weathering paint has gummed it up a bit?

 

I know how frustrating it is as I have a few old locos that splutter.  Keep the faith and work through all the key contact points and give everything a good clean, including the track (sticky little finger get everywhere ;-) ).

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On the ballasting front, I think things might look improved if you can form a more well defined ballast shoulder, covering all the underlay.  Also, you might consider weathering the track before you ballast further? I am spraying mine track brown before ballasting; less risk from any white underlay/scenic plaster showing through the ballast.

 

Perhaps just go back over what you/kids have ballasted so far and I am sure it will fine.  From what I have observed on my work days track side, is that the grass and ballast tend to have a fairly distinct edge to each other which is enhanced by a cable trough. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/106602-family-8x4-oo-layout-trains-running-again/?p=2898300  The ballast shoulder is one of the key things to a good looking track bed.

 

Here are a couple of photos to illustrate.  Both are on the freight only line to Grassington and just show that bright green or very long static grass would not be wrong ;-)

 

post-4412-0-37914400-1514993756_thumb.jpg

 

post-4412-0-52376000-1514993767_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

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I have gone over the ballast again and it looks better now

 

post-31637-0-17631900-1515156622_thumb.jpg

 

post-31637-0-20633200-1515156566_thumb.jpg

 

I have also have 1 rake with Kadee couplings now I am still working on the loco and the issue with the magnets

 

post-31637-0-22734300-1515156554_thumb.jpg

 

Due to the tight radius curves I am struggling to get these trucks coupled any closer but it is a big improvement on the tension lock couplings

 

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