Weathering Using Powders and Washes Combined

[MattStevens]

Hello everyone, Matt here

 

I've been doing work experience at BRM (see my prototype article forum started by Steve Cole). I've also built a nice 7mm wooden kiosk. I just thought I'd show how I use powders and washed together for weathering. Thier are some pictures demonstarting the build at various stages, and a video of me blending the powders with a wash.

This is the KS Laser Designs Wooden Café Kit. I hope to demonstrate that wood can be an excellent material for building because of its robustness. It’s also an ideal surface to paint onto and weather.

Laser cut kits are possibly the best kits, because they are perfectly square and smooth and are guaranteed to join superbly. The problem with some of these kits is that they are made from card, which deforms and bends quite easily if you’re not careful. No such issue with wood.

The biggest benefit thought is that this is a model of a wooden structure and kit is made with wood. The point being that no buildings are made from card board in reality.

However, it proved to be very difficult to assemble. I tried first using Roket Card Glue, but this seemed to just evaporate and soak in – and not bond! Next I tried the thicker Glue n’ Glaze with its slower drying time. This might have worked, but the building would just fall to bits before it dried properly. If you have a whole 48 hours and a huge array of braces and clamps, this might work for you.

I settled for a 10-20sec drying cyano glue from the same company. This worked well for bond with tab and slots but for face the side joints it still wasn’t effective. The card glue, in theory, should work, but the reality is different. Another issue I found with the kit, being laser cut, was that the sides weren’t absorbing the glue like you would expect (possibly due to some chemical reaction or something during the laser cutting process) and it would just evaporate off the surface.

I’m not saying that the kit or the glues don’t work, but there’s a reason why card is still the most popular material – it’s a lot easier. Kits are supposed to enable novices to construct a building easily. After a day with this kit, I don’t think this one will. This actually requires a lot of skill and experience, and to be honest, if you have that skill, you are probably better off with a scratch build. It’s technically a good idea, in reality not that easy.

 

I've posted the pics below. I'll upload the You Tube link to the video in a bit if I can.

 

 

 

 

[Damo666]

The biggest benefit thought is that this is a model of a wooden structure and kit is made with wood. The point being that no buildings are made from card board in reality.

Hi Matt,

 

You might want to try having a go with this cardboard church in card:

 

Thanks for the research, I'm collecting a record of techniques for when I start making my buildings, but first I need to get the layout sorted. The whole issue of which glues work with which materials are still a mystery. Wonder of there is a matrix out there that shows what glue works best with which materials?

[Mick Bonwick]

Why not use PVA?

[Gt.Shefford]

My glue of choice for assembling laser cut mdf is No Nonsense Weather Resistant PVA Wood Glue from Screwfix. Its inexpensive, has plenty of body, grabs quickly, and retains a degree of flexibility. Depending on the situation I'll either apply it with a brush or for larger work I have some decanted into a Metcalfe glue applicator bottle

 

Jonathan 

 

[Guius]

I agree, Screwfix PVA is pretty good stuff for jobs like this. Used it for years and had no cause for complaint, just drying time needs a little patience.

 

Best

 

Guy

[MattStevens]

Hi Matt,

 

You might want to try having a go with this cardboard church in card:

 

Thanks for the research, I'm collecting a record of techniques for when I start making my buildings, but first I need to get the layout sorted. The whole issue of which glues work with which materials are still a mystery. Wonder of there is a matrix out there that shows what glue works best with which materials?

 

Deluxe Materials, the producers of the various glues I used, have a full chart on their website showing what glues work with what materials. In theroy, the card glue should glue wood. The issue I found with the kit was the lack of bracing with whole building relying on end to side joints. I also wondered whether the burnt off edges of the laswer cut pieces were causing an issue. I was suggested that sanding them down would be good, but wouldn't defeat the whole point of laser cutting.

 

I'm not much of a kit builder. Most of the buildings I produce for my layouts are scratchbuilt. There is a belief that kit building is easier - I'm not so sure. I would recommend having a go at a little scratchbuilding project if you haven't already.

 

 

 

Matt

[MattStevens]

Why not use PVA?

 

Yes Mick this would work, but the drying time would be really long - probably have to leave it overnight. You'd also need lots of supports are braces to stop it falling to bits before the glue dries. If you have the equipment and the time, PVA is best for this - Roket Card glue is a form of PVA I think but it dries to quickly for this.

[Mick Bonwick]

Yes Mick this would work, but the drying time would be really long - probably have to leave it overnight. You'd also need lots of supports are braces to stop it falling to bits before the glue dries. If you have the equipment and the time, PVA is best for this - Roket Card glue is a form of PVA I think but it dries to quickly for this.

 

In my experience neat PVA 'grabs' very quickly, although I do agree it takes time to dry completely. The latter is not a problem for me becuase I'm never in a rush these days! :-D For general support when building structures I make use of the excellent magnetic devices marketed by York Modelmaking, together with some engineers' squares. However, none of this intended to detract from your modelmaking - good work.

[macgeordie]

Try Evo-Stik Impact, apply some to one edge, push the two parts together so some glue transfers to the other component, separate them and blow on the glued surfaces for 30 seconds, push them back together and leave it to set for a minute or two then do the next joint. It can be messy stuff as it tends to string, but it works.

 

Ian

[Barry O]

No more nails?

 

Before applying weathering best to try and seal the wood. I have used a spray varnish and ronseal on some of my efforts. It just stops the washes sinking in and the powders grabbing too much.

 

Baz

[monkeysarefun]

I use PVA too though I've found that lasercut surfaces can have a layer of soot on the cut edges that can prevent a good contact.  Also, I use hairspray at various stages - after painting the brick colour but before applying the mortar, then again after the mortar and finally post weathering. Added bonus - it gives the model a rather pleasant perfumy smell..