Weymouth Pannier Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 I've got a Tower Brass O Gauge Class 03 which I intend to paint using primarily Halfords products (I don't own an airbrush, so I intend to paint the loco using spray cans instead), but need some advice from those in the know before I can part with some money and crack on with it...! I've had a quick glance at Rice's 'Etched Loco Construction' book and he suggests using Halford's grey cellulose primer followed by a cellulose/acrylic top coat. But, it's basically the preperation I need to do prior to painting I'm unsure of because I'm wary of the lacquer on the loco that needs to be removed first. What do people recommend? Cif? Fairy liquid? I've thought maybe a scrub over with a fibre glass stick may work? As for the colour, it's going to be plain BR Green (1957 style) - and I think Rover Brooklands Green looks to be a good match in Halfords, unless anyone can suggest anything better for brunswick breen? I'm not going to get pedantic about the exact colour - life's too short - and the weathering will shift the hue slightly anyway. But a good impression of brunswick green is what I'm after. Thanks in advance for your help! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 I've got a Tower Brass O Gauge Class 03 which I intend to paint using primarily Halfords products (I don't own an airbrush, so I intend to paint the loco using spray cans instead), but need some advice from those in the know before I can part with some money and crack on with it...! I've had a quick glance at Rice's 'Etched Loco Construction' book and he suggests using Halford's grey cellulose primer followed by a cellulose/acrylic top coat. But, it's basically the preperation I need to do prior to painting I'm unsure of because I'm wary of the lacquer on the loco that needs to be removed first. What do people recommend? Cif? Fairy liquid? I've thought maybe a scrub over with a fibre glass stick may work? As for the colour, it's going to be plain BR Green (1957 style) - and I think Rover Brooklands Green looks to be a good match in Halfords, unless anyone can suggest anything better for brunswick breen? I'm not going to get pedantic about the exact colour - life's too short - and the weathering will shift the hue slightly anyway. But a good impression of brunswick green is what I'm after. Thanks in advance for your help! The right approach, but be careful with the spray paint from cans, it is all to easy to go to far and get over thick coats, something more under control with an airbrush. The loco may well have a coat of varnish, it will be cellulose type and dissolve away completely with a wash in thinners. But as long as it's sound, with no green solder flux marks to clean etc, then just wash the parts, and leave the coat intact, and simply over spray with the car colour. wash with detergent, not a cleaner as domestic cleaners may contain lanolin or perfumes etc, which leave traces behind on the washed surface. Ordinary domestic washing up liquid with do fine, the simple types contain no extras. You can scrub gently with an abrasive cleaner like VIM, with a toothbrush, no risk to the varnish, but it will clean off nicely. This is not anti Cillit Bang or CIF cleaners, but there are domestic types meant to be kind to the hands and they add all sorts of oils, and perfumes, to leave the hands feeling nice after use!! All right for plates and kitchen items, but not for models. The Brooklands British racing green is pretty close, Land Rover green is often quoted as well, but as long as it is not that important to you, then use the Brooklands. The main consideration is comparison with other locos that you have, if none, then there is no problem anyway. Make sure the coats are thin, and allow time to dry, do not swamp the model in one go, car paints are quick build and and soon overcome the details on a model, and the only cure is strip and do again. Hope this helps, Stephen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weymouth Pannier Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 Stephen - Thank you very much for your help with this. Much appreciated. I'll hope to post the reults of how I get on in due course. I have a target date of the Warley show, so I need to crack on with it really, sooner than later. If all goes well it'll be running on Wood Street at the show! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Lamb Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 I would endorse what Stephen says about domestic cleaners. The culprit in some of these products is lanolin. It is almost impossible to remove from metal surfaces and affects the adhesion of just about every type of paint. Bernard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Nothing much to add really except to suggest that you carry out tests spraying a piece of wood if you are unfamiliar with using paint spray cans. The trick is getting an even spray AND getting the paint into odd corners without drowning the whole area. Far better to initially give the model a light spray and put it on a convector heater for 2 minutes. This way the next coat will have something to key to which will minimize runs. When the model has a good coat of primer, leave it to 'cure' for 4 hours before putting on the green. Again built up the coats with an initial light coating. Even though I use a spray gun for most everything, I've always used aerosols when it comes to red oxide primer. Larry G. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weymouth Pannier Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 Jist to say that so far, so good! I've been painting the 03 over the last week or so (weather permitting!), and have now got to the stage where the body has received a final topcoat of green, and rods and buffer beams are red. All black areas are still in oxide primer but I'm going to brush paint these anyway. I'm quite pleased with the finish on the body and actually found the paint quite forgiving. Weathering hides a multitude of sins anyway - I've acheived what I wanted which is an even solid base colour to work on. Thanks for the advice above - I'll try and get some photos posted of the finished model. (Still aiming for it to be done in time for Warkey - nothing like a deadline to focus the mind!). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weymouth Pannier Posted November 19, 2009 Author Share Posted November 19, 2009 Done it! Well, sort of. I've posted a photo here of how the loco looks after today's work, which involved mainly the cab glazing and adding the emblem and number. It's a bit of a lash up really because the numbering has only been added to the one side. With a lack of time prior to warley to get this finished, the glazing has merely been fixed with tape, and at the expense of the interior, which doesn't fit without some fettling of the glazing - again, not enough time to really tinker round with it. I'm pleased with the overall finish and colour of the green/black/red - in due course I'll spend some decent time fine tuning the weathering and doing a proper job of the glazing as well as adding numbers and emblem to the other side of the cab. A driver's needed too, as well as a backing plate behind the front grill because currently from 'nose on' you can see the worm of the motor in all its glory! Anyway, I've achieved what I wanted in time for the Warley show - so thanks again for the advice with painting the loco. Cheers! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajdown Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 Very nice work. If i could get results half as good as that from an airbrush I'd be happy. So far all I can achieve is "all over crud" weathering. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weymouth Pannier Posted November 19, 2009 Author Share Posted November 19, 2009 Very nice work. If i could get results half as good as that from an airbrush I'd be happy. So far all I can achieve is "all over crud" weathering. Thanks. For the record it was painted using Halfords spray cans - I don't own an airbrush! ;-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Lacey (92245) Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Thanks. For the record it was painted using Halfords spray cans - I don't own an airbrush! ;-) Cracking model you've got there! I'm half tempted by one of them myself now. What did you use in the end to actually strip the model prior to painting? I think I actually saw the loco in question working at Warley.....if I'd seen this thread earlier, I would have stopped and complimented you in person! Cheers, Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cnw6847 Posted December 2, 2009 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 2, 2009 I've read that its worth standing the paint in warm water before spraying to get it to a good temp and obviously thorough shaking before use. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Dyson (onslaught832) Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 The 03 looks really nice, BTW I use Halfords primer & Railmatch aerosols on my 7mm loco's Phill :icon_thumbsup2: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steves17 Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 I did ask on my thread, but no ones responded. This search is about the closest i've come to a direct answer. Is there a readily available colour recommended for touching up a Bachmann model in Brunswick green? I could colour mix, but if there is a tin that modellers use I would prefer that. Basically i'm looking to possibly paint the front of my model green over black and add sandboxes. [/url]">http:// ( i'm not going to be using the Hornby duck sand boxes, just want to see how thy compared, I trust that Pannier 'Hercules' is a good basis for sand boxes, as i can't find any 57xxs with them. [/url]">http:// I was thinking of painting two logo pieces trim down in height, like a fellow Sundrian modeller, but can see his are over-scale looking at the above and other pannier engines. If I were to remove the top feed, would that, along with a touch up, be all is needed? I would prefer just to hand paint it rather than redo the whole shell. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help. Also does anyone have a recommend yellow for Heljan's diesels? The BR's blue livery, if it does change from the prior brunswick green livery yellow, i.e on a class 35 Hymeck. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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