Peco 75 vs 100

[bluesparky]

Re sticking down,,

I've got code 100. I drill a hole in centre of a few sleepers and put a track pin in, when I have ballasted it, I rely on that to keep it glued down, remove the pins, fill the holes and paint with sleeper grime colour

 Sounds like a good plan, I think i'll go down that route.

 My thinking is the side that I'll be modelling working hard on will be Code 75 and the fiddle yard / storage / behind scenery will be code 100.

 I just need to find the correct info about wiring up code 75 electrofrog turnouts and slips etc.

 Thank you.

[imt]

........

 I just need to find the correct info about wiring up code 75 electrofrog turnouts and slips etc.

 Thank you.

 

Try Google or just go here http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical.html

[bluesparky]

Try Google or just go here http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical.html

Great, thank you

[Junctionmad]

It's worth pointing out that the P4 bridage have largely abandoned cork as it promotes track irregularities.

 

In my opinion, having done actual tests ( well my friend did) foam , 3mm. Is slightly better then cork, but the ballasting tends to increase the noise transmission significantly.

 

My club , which builds exhibitions layouts , doesn't bother with cork and lays code 100 or code 75 direct to the ply

 

Personally I always glue track

[bluesparky]

Thank you all for the help and advice, I'm going for Peco code 75 for most of the railway but once it goes behind the two scenic breaks and into the fiddle yard I'll use code 100 set track.

[davetheroad]

Why do Peco only have one version of the asymmetric 3 way turnout? It would be good to have an 'opposite' version.

[mightbe]

In their defense, the decision can be justified if you accept that a) molds are expensive and b) one hand would appear more frequently in a British context. To explain the latter, in the trailing direction on a double track main line you'll get the large radius between the up and down lines and the medium radius going off to a siding or goods area. Long coaches etc traverse the large crossover, while the goods trains reversing into the siding will travel through the medium. 

 

In any case, tandem turnouts were typically only used where required. 3-throw turnouts were used even more sparingly. 

 

Quentin

[hayfield]

It's worth pointing out that the P4 bridage have largely abandoned cork as it promotes track irregularities.

 

In my opinion, having done actual tests ( well my friend did) foam , 3mm. Is slightly better then cork, but the ballasting tends to increase the noise transmission significantly.

 

My club , which builds exhibitions layouts , doesn't bother with cork and lays code 100 or code 75 direct to the ply

 

Personally I always glue track

 

If you are after sound damping then the best underlay will be a high density foam, C&L sell it though I have been told the stuff sold at camping shops is just as good and far cheaper.

 

This is half the story as using pins and or PVA glue  will transmit the sound through the material. Glue the foam with a latex glue, then do the same with the track to the foam using latex glue. Pins can be used to hold the track in place whilst the glue is drying. Lay ballast using whichever method you prefer, but again use latex not PVA. Latex can be diluted with water just the same as PVA 

[Pete the Elaner]

This is half the story as using pins and or PVA glue  will transmit the sound through the material. Glue the foam with a latex glue, then do the same with the track to the foam using latex glue. Pins can be used to hold the track in place whilst the glue is drying. Lay ballast using whichever method you prefer, but again use latex not PVA. Latex can be diluted with water just the same as PVA 

That's interesting. It is not what I have found.

My track bed is cork on the entire layout. The cork is fixed throughout with pins & PVA.

Track is glued on the scenic section with latex (Copydex) & pinned in the fiddle yard.

Even before any ballasting, trains were a lot noisier on the scenic section. When I left something running in, I could easily hear when it is passing over the glued track from the other end of the house. I could not hear it at all when passing through the fiddle yard.

I have since ballasted the scenic part & the difference is slightly more noticeable.

It is still not as noisy as any track ballasted with resin (PVA) though.

[hayfield]

That's interesting. It is not what I have found.

My track bed is cork on the entire layout. The cork is fixed throughout with pins & PVA.

Track is glued on the scenic section with latex (Copydex) & pinned in the fiddle yard.

Even before any ballasting, trains were a lot noisier on the scenic section. When I left something running in, I could easily hear when it is passing over the glued track from the other end of the house. I could not hear it at all when passing through the fiddle yard.

I have since ballasted the scenic part & the difference is slightly more noticeable.

It is still not as noisy as any track ballasted with resin (PVA) though.

 

 

It may well be the scenic area is deading the drum effect of the baseboards or their construction differs. PVA locks everything up solid, plus high density foam is much better at noise reduction than foam. Latex also keeps its elastic characteristics