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Signal Box Windows


MDP78
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I have attempted my first scratch build. I have constructed a base for a Ratio 500 signal box kit. This was more out of necessity because the original got damaged and I thought Id give building a replacement a go rather than buy spares.

 

I think it looks ok. The arched headers are Wills SS55. I did worry that a single brick course header wasn't particularly accurate but Bewdley South has a one, so that was one issue

 

One think I am unsure about is the windows. I have used Ratio 521 industrial windows with the arched top cut off. In terms of the glazing bar divisions I dont think it is too bad. However I am a little worried the glazing bars are a little too thick and deep.

 

Id appreciate some comments and/or pointers in terms of some possible alternatives?

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Single brick arches aren't unknown, if the window isn't too wide then they're sufficient to carry the load. In a signal box which has a timber upper half then there'll be a wall plate to carry the framing, so all the weight of the upper half is more evenly distributed.

With the windows themselves if they're not fixed how about laying them flat on some emery paper and rubbing the thickness away ? they do look a bit too 'chunky' to me so reducing the thickness would make a real difference.

Other than that, looking really good  :good:

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One thing I have noticed. Most model railways are set in summer and signal boxes have a lot of glass. Put these two facts together and some the upper windows should be open. Usually ones at each end to allow a through flow of air and often the door is open. Very few model signal boxes have this.

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Thanks for the comments and suggestions.

 

I have had a go at a mk2 window. I have cut the glazing bars out. Butchered two windows from a Wills ss42 and inserted them into the remaining frames of the Ratio window.

 

post-26292-0-61417900-1504441706_thumb.jpgpost-26292-0-31400400-1504441736_thumb.jpg

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  • RMweb Gold

For small window panes, I use liquid glazing.  I think it gives a better impression of single panes and also give the impression of thinner glazing bars.

 

I've not used that yet.

 

For thin glazing bars I score the clear perspex then rub some white paint across it and clean off quickly, this leaves a thin white line, thinner than I can cut in styrene.

  • Informative/Useful 1
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