Sir TophamHatt Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) I've read through the instructions and watched the Everard Junction video on wiring up these points. I was pretty confident but now I'm actually doing it, I'm not so sure. So... A goes to the switch. C goes to one bus wire. D I can ignore as I'm using insulfrog. E I can ignore as I'm using insulfrog. F I can ignore as I'm using insulfrog. B goes to the other side of the switch. However the instructions suggest D and E should go to any signals I may have. Does anyone know how this works? The Everard Junction video says these two (D and E) switch the polarity of the tracks if I were using electrofrog points. I'm powering my layout using DCC, but have an old Hornby controller that I'm using to power the secondary bus wires for the point motors. I also have a CDU to put in there somewhere. Cheers. Edited January 4, 2018 by anotheruser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frobisher Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Basically D, E, F are "just" a switch (connecting F to either D or E depending on the PM-1's position), but it will all depend on the signals you might have, and I don't think it would work with the Dapol motorised signals for instance straight out of the box (they switch on momentary contact across their two switch wires). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir TophamHatt Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 But I don't need to connect D, E or F to anything? I'm pretty far away from being able to add signals so I'm happy just to fit the motor as is. I know that's not really getting the most out of the motor but if I replace the points for electrofrog later, I have the motor to go with it. The next challenge (ish) will be fitting two motors to one switch so I can switch two sets with the one push. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 If I was you, I would solder short lengths of wire to the D, E and F tags now, then if you want to connect signals at a later date you won't need to do any upside down soldering under the layout. Just use terminal blocks or other connectors to join up the wires when needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frobisher Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 But I don't need to connect D, E or F to anything? I'm pretty far away from being able to add signals so I'm happy just to fit the motor as is. I know that's not really getting the most out of the motor but if I replace the points for electrofrog later, I have the motor to go with it. Yup It's probably worth doing what smokebox suggested to simplify your rewiring for electrofrogs in the future, in fact it's probably worth having a terminal block for all the connections all 6 so that it is easy to adjust the wiring should a particular PM-1 be wired the wrong way around... (see below) The next challenge (ish) will be fitting two motors to one switch so I can switch two sets with the one push. It shouldn't be too tricky, it's just a case of bonding the A and B terminals of the two PM-1s together correctly - either A-A and B-B or A-B and B-A depending upon which is the correct setting for each point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir TophamHatt Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 (edited) Thanks. I'll give this a go and see what happens. I guess it doesn't really matter which side I put on the power source? (it's an old Hornby controller with the pins on the side). Edited January 7, 2018 by anotheruser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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