M51625 Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 After hearing that Steve was retiring this kit I jumped at the opportunity to get the last one at a greatly reduced price from a well-known auction site. This is described as a 3rd generation kit, a friend built a 2nd generation one about 10 years ago, it wasn’t easy but was described to me as a good challenge, I’m a kit builder, so before anyone asks why I’m not buying one from the little loco company that’s the reason, my hobby is building, I don’t as yet have anywhere to run, that’s another project one day! So what do you get in the box, a packet of resin castings, all looks to be cab interior related, a packet of nuts/bolts and sprung buffers, a pack of brass castings, a large amount of whitemetal castings, and nicely wrapped etches, the body comes in 3 pieces and is already folded. Also a bag with the cast body ends (I have concerns about the quality of these), a bag of 3D printed small items (a first for me), and a CD. The CD contains 2 instruction manuals, (body and bogies) along with about 20 photos of the real thing. Ignoring the process in the instructions I started with the running plate, no problems here all fitted together well, then the fuel tank, slight issue, its mounted to a bolster that is designed to be screwed to the brass but the screw holes don’t line up, no real problem just use epoxy instead. I’ve added extra details around the fuel tanks, fillers and drain valves come in the kit but I’ve added the brass taps and also some electrical conduit that runs to the brass battery boxes in front of the tanks. All sorted and fitted, the bolster may need cutting back as it may affect the bogie clearance will find out in due course. Next buffer beam detailing, in the kit there is no mention of what goes where, it’s a generic ‘now fit the castings’ of which there are too many so you need external reference material for this, indeed the CD does not contain any end on photos. The air pipe(s), vac pipe(s), and multi working castings, I’ve decided not to use they are not great and an order to MMP has been placed, a screw coupling has also been ordered from that supplier. The steam heat bag has been used, it’s the best of them, buffers, not a problem, the holes in the buffer beam did not need opening out. With all the running plate planned my thoughts turn to the bogies, its recommended by the instructions that Roxey wheels are used, they would be my preference so happy about that, it also suggests Mashima motors and Markits gearboxes, so will have to see what is available, I think I’m only going to put one motor in anyway. one slight problem, the bogie bolsters are located in half etched lines, but the front bogie are etched through and will need filling from above, the other bogi is half etched but will also be covered by the cab, looks like the designer got a little mixed up. The won't be a fast 'jazz' build but hope to be complete for Easter. Cheers 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeandnel Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 Hello Steve If you are a kit builder, are you interested in building kits for other people? Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted January 12, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 12, 2018 I do like the 15 so watching with interest (and I have a 4mm Alexander kit to crack on with at some point). I presume the kit was retired because of the Little Loco Company RTR? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M51625 Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 Hello Steve If you are a kit builder, are you interested in building kits for other people? Michael i'm not steve... I do build for other people, but at the moment i'm building for myself and have quite a queue in the cupboard as a result of working for others.. Cheers Gareth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M51625 Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 I do like the 15 so watching with interest (and I have a 4mm Alexander kit to crack on with at some point). I presume the kit was retired because of the Little Loco Company RTR? i believe so, although looking at some of the catings it may have been to expiry of the moulds.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted January 13, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13, 2018 Ah - and no point going to the expense of remaking I guess. Still going to watch with interest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M51625 Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 (edited) week 2: Buffer beams details all completed, quite a busy buffer beam for what i understand to be a vac braked, no heat loco! All good but will be a difficult paint job. Before i make a start on the bogies i have cut the cab etches from the fret and have a couple of issues, the cab front and rear have 1/2 etched area for window frames to be fitted and a 1/2 etched line and slots for the body to fit, however the window recesses appear to be on the inside. and then looking at the cab sides/roof all in one etch it has some strange half etch arrangement to enable the curve, this seems to show through to the outside and will clearly need attention before paint. Edited January 17, 2018 by M51625 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted January 17, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 17, 2018 Don't *think* they had steam heat but were definitely ETH - that's what the last 4 were used for after their revenue earning life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M51625 Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 Don't *think* they had steam heat but were definitely ETH - that's what the last 4 were used for after their revenue earning life. steam heat was only a through pipe, ETH was a modification which rendered them non powered (traction) and had to be dragged around. Well thats my understanding, why they had 4 air pipes on the buffer beam i'm not sure.. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 I refer you to the instructions they do help! Especially when you're constructing the bogie... The window etches are on the inside as the cab has a resin inner skin and the Glazing is sandwiched between the two. The white metal casting - particularly the nose canopy, are to be regarded as a 'raw material' that will be sanded after soldering. Best to leave the cab end bogie stretchers until after fitting the cab - makes life easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M51625 Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 week 3 Not had much time this week, but managed to complete the brass work on the bogie sides and the outer ends of the bogies, instructions pretty good in this area. Hoping to get the bogies assembled in the next week, then on to the detailing. Elsewhere the cab is built, considering how to fix it to the running plate, it needs to be removable but the kit makes no allowance for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 Ok the cab is fixed - it's the bogie stretcher that is only soldered in at the last minute once the interior has been sorted... Good work on the sideframes BTW, I can never get mine straight... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M51625 Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 week 4 Unfortunately real work keeps getting in the way, anyway i now have a rolling loco.. Couple of issues now arise: 1 the centre bolster that holds the fuel tanks is too long and needs cutting down to allow the bogies to fit, this item has had 2 issues, and the clearance for the motor isnt great, might have to start cutting 2. ride height, when compared to a random selection of my stock it seems to be on the high side by approx 1.5mm, no big deal, just needs lowering, but the problem is that the bogie sides are already resting on the bolster and comapred to the photos on the instruction CD we should have a gap, not sure what to do here Will ponder while i switch attention to a 12" to the 1' project for a couple of weeks. G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 On that - you can mount the leading motor in the nose section not as above. It just means unsoldering the motor hanger and relocating it to the other side. Both motors should be outer not inner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Beattie Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 On that - you can mount the leading motor in the nose section not as above. It just means unsoldering the motor hanger and relocating it to the other side. Both motors should be outer not inner. By that I meant as per pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M51625 Posted February 13, 2018 Author Share Posted February 13, 2018 week 5. Bogies continued, most of the whitemetal castings sorted, some needed quite a clean up. Not a fan of the 3d printed dampers, very delicate. Brake rigging next, instructions a little hit and miss, so if anyone has a couple of decent side on photos of this type of bogie please share them, particularly interested in any handbrake linkage.. As you can see i have fitted Delrin cogs, initially planned to use a timing chain, but the drive wheels are too big, so will save that for another day, with the sand boxes fitted there is very little room for the bogies to move. Test run next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted February 13, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 13, 2018 (edited) week 5. Bogies continued, most of the whitemetal castings sorted, some needed quite a clean up. Not a fan of the 3d printed dampers, very delicate. WP_20180213_18_38_58_Pro.jpg Brake rigging next, instructions a little hit and miss, so if anyone has a couple of decent side on photos of this type of bogie please share them, particularly interested in any handbrake linkage.. WP_20180213_18_39_04_Pro.jpg As you can see i have fitted Delrin cogs, initially planned to use a timing chain, but the drive wheels are too big, so will save that for another day, with the sand boxes fitted there is very little room for the bogies to move. Test run next week. Best I have are from D8233's Mangapps days and I was never a good photog! Edited February 13, 2018 by Bucoops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Druid Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 Gareth You may already have seen these if not may be of some benefit. For detail shots of the last remaining Class 15 try https://www.flickr.com/photos/brianews/albums/72157626897645349 or go on the Class 15 Preservation site and look through the work folio. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M51625 Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 Quick update on progress, project was parked for 5 months while i focused something a little bigger, but back on with it now. Bogie under the cab all assembled, brake gear was tricky, castings were very poor so a lot of cleaning up needed, and the holes in the etched parts were over-sized. Steps all assembled and have been made to swing as the bogies need them to move to permit the loco to go around curves.. Sanding pipes not in the kit so MMP parts to the rescue. Current work sees the brake gear being fitted to the front bogie. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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