SEF N7 rear pony truck

[stewartingram]

Many years ago I built the original Wills N7, and used the Triang chassis. As far as I recall, there was a whitemetal real pony truck, which pivoted on the bottom of that chassis.

A couple of years ago, I purchased s/h (but unused) a SEF N7 kit at a bargain price from (I think) Warley show. I'm now well on the way to getting it basically complete (just waiting for a High Level gearbox to come), but am a little puzzled about the rear pony truck.

Although I have a couple of ideas in mind, I'm wondering what the SEF method is for that axle. I never got any instructions with the kit, and there is this time no whitemetal casting (nor the recommended use of a Triang chassis.....). However, there is an etched loco chassis, and just a couple of large slots in the rear for the axle. Should there be other parts that I haven't got? Does anyone have a copy of the instructions, or photos of completed chassis they could show me please?

 

Stewart

 

 

[mdh1950]

Hi,

 

Don't SEF still produce this kit?

 

Michael

[hayfield]

Phone Dave Ellis up tomorrow at Southeastern Finecast, cross his palm with silver and he will send a parts list and or supply the replacement part

[Bucoops]

Could the chassis have a radial axle rather than a pony truck? The early N7s had radial trucks, which was changed for a pony truck for the part 3 build (I think that's when it was). 

 

edit: this says it was the part 2 and onwards build that had the pony: https://www.gersociety.org.uk/index.php/locomotives/a-j-hill/l77

 

Just as an aside, the later parts (4 and 5) were created by rebuilding the earlier ones so (I think) would still have their radial axles, although apparently some rebuilds were classed as part 3 for a while so some would have had pony and some radial. Ugh.

 

Finished drivelling now

Edited January 24, 2018 by Bucoops

[stewartingram]

Thanks so far, but I'm really just after info on what the kit provides (or perhaps, should provide?).

[Bucoops]

The instructions say: "Fit trailing wheels to slot in frames. It may be advantageous to lightly spring these onto the rails with fine wire - one spring each side inside the frames is best soldered to the inside frame walls. Fit washers to ensure wheels can't touch frames."

[uax6]

Phone Dave, he is a real gent and will get you sorted with no effort, and if there are bits missing he'll sort them out too.

 

01342 824711

 

Andy G

[stewartingram]

Having now got the instructions (thanks to a fellow member) it appears my kit is complete, and my idea of fitting the axle was very similar to the kit instructions. Thanks to all for the help.

 

Stewart

[Barclay]

I built a couple of these last year - the arrangements for the trailing wheels are very simple, as you say. I replaced the slot with bearings, but because the layout they were intended for has super-tight curves, the whole back end of the chassis had to come off and be turned into one big heavily weighted trailing truck. If I were building one for sensible curves it might be an idea to fit sprung hornblocks instead of the set up provided in the kit.