SteveS Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 I think the Peco wagons were originally made by a firm called Websters. I have the box van and a 16t coal wagon and both went together really well. It will be interesting to see if the Peco coal wagon stays in rhe range now it ha Parkside. The cynic in me says that on acquisitiion of Parkside, Peco will have put up prices. Can anyone confirm. Thesis what Corgi did when it acquired the Vanguards range and some of the original models that camein at £11.95 are now retailing at £22.95. Disgraceful. Paul R Yes they did put the prices up on these kits. or at least thats what I saw on the Antics website.. I find it disgraceful at the prices they are charging for kits. I got my kit before the prices went up. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 Hello everyone Finally finished building the Parkside wagon kit last week. Once I got past some of the terminology it went together rather easily. Only cock up I did was but the brake levers across from each other instead of putting them at opposite corners. Then managed to lose the VERY TINY nut that goes on the buffer while putting the last buffer on. Attached are a few pics from the workbench. Left the wheels out so I can paint it. The wagon rolls real good. Now for the next question. What color of brown would be a good match for railmatch colors for the later era. An ideas? Thanks guys Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Steve, always good to finish your first kit. I think you should fix the levers though. Brake levers have tripped me up on more than one occasion. Paul Bs collection of photos http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/paulbartlettsrailwaywagons have been extremely useful to me. The wagon would be painted bauxite if vacuum fitted, is that the case? (I don't see a vac cylinder) If not it should be grey. I bodged up a batch of bauxite for use on good wagons. Exact shade doesn't much matter once the wagon is weathered. You can try Steve at Model Railway Imports for paint: http://www.modelrailwayimports.com/ He's in Canada so no restrictions on shipping paint. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
101 Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 The nuts are 12BA available quite easily,might be worth buying a few if you intend to put any more kits together - to keep the carpet monster at bay Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Worth looking at Eileens Emporium for metal bits. They do come in very handy. I keep a stock of the range of nuts/bolts from 16BA to 4BA. I also use a pordigious amount of 0.020" (0.5mm) and 0.032" (0.8mm) wire. Make sure you have drills in these sizes (don't buy the sets). Hattons also stock metals. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 I’d definitely recommend checking out “non modelling” suppliers for tools, wire & fasteners. A good google can save pounds (dollars, euro, ringgit) Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 Hello Again everyone, Yes It has been awhile. Well I finally got the Parkside 21T open wagon built and painted. I found very color here in the USA (scale coat 2 UP Freight car grey) that comes close.. The kit went together fairly easy one I got some of the terminology right. Anyhow I'm now ready to put the decals/transfers on the car sides. I'm not sure I'm following the directions right? They talk about removing a tissue like backing without cutting thru the backing? haven't seen anything that resembles tissue to me. I cut the diagonal stripe to see if its done right. Will send a picture in my next post to see if this is right or wrong. Any help would be appreciated Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 This is what the car decal/transfer and instructions from kit is this done right or not, any help appreciated. Thanks Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 Sorry got the picture the right way. What the photo is not showing is the backing paper from the gray stripe still attached to the stripe and applied to the wagon. Something not right me thinks. What I'm I not doing right. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 Worth looking at Eileens Emporium for metal bits. They do come in very handy. I keep a stock of the range of nuts/bolts from 16BA to 4BA. I also use a pordigious amount of 0.020" (0.5mm) and 0.032" (0.8mm) wire. Make sure you have drills in these sizes (don't buy the sets). Hattons also stock metals. John Hi John Thanks for the info. I did get some 1 MM nuts. While not really the right size. I did get one onto the back of the buffer. Might have stripped the threads on the buffer but It's not going to be replaced so I'll live with that. But I will check out the places for the bits. Thanks for your help tho (even if it's a bit late, me not you) Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 The nuts are 12BA available quite easily,might be worth buying a few if you intend to put any more kits together - to keep the carpet monster at bay I just ordered a pack of 10 from Eileens Emporium today along with another Parkside wagon kit. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 This kit building lark is pretty addictive. I started 7mm a year and a half ago and now I have more wagons (most kits) than I can shake a stick at. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 It’s difficult to describe the transfers, but I’ll have a go; Assuming they are waterslide - Starting at the top, you should have a layer of translucent “slippery tissue” which protects the transfers in the box. Then you have the transfer itself - it’ll look shiny when you lift up the tissue - this is the top, visible, side of the transfer. It’ll be the colours you expect, and you’ll be able to read it! Then there is a base layer. This is quite thick paper with a slippery topside. You wet the model (might need a drop of lanolin-free detergent and it works best on gloss paint or varnish) and you cut the backing paper quite but not too closely around the transfer, dip it in a saucer of water, and then use a wet paintbrush to slide the transfer off the backing and into position on the model. You’ll know when to do that because the piece of backing paper will curl up when you first wet it, then it will flatten. As soon as it does, slide your transfer into place. Use a corner of a tissue to pull away any excess water, and push it around gently with your wet brush to get the position just right. Then leave it alone to dry out! If they aren’t waterslide, they might be pressfix or methfix. These are a little more challenging! Here, you have everything upside down. The tissue is on the underside of the transfer, and protects the glue. (The letters and numbers will be mirror image, so you’ll know). You have to cut part-way through the backing paper, and peel just the top layer off, with the transfer still attached. You wet the model with a meths/water mix, apply the transfer (or press it into place first time) and then drop water on the backing paper, which will then wash off. Getting positioning right first time is critical. Or they might be rub-down. Here you will have a plastic sheet with the transfers on it - it’s the same way round as the pressfix - and you simply remove the tissue, place it in exactly the right place, hold it firmly so it can’t move, and with your third hand, you burnish the plastic sheet. The transfer magically detaches from the plastic, and sticks to the model. And doesn’t crack or distort, because you held it so firmly... Hope this helps! Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 (edited) Parkside always used to be "Pressfix" type and don't look like they've changed. The Black background varies on such wagons best to work from photo. Anyway background first then the rest of the transfers. The stripe must be upside down as it should be white. Bet the black is sticky. Edited May 30, 2018 by Stephen Freeman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 I've had both pressfix and waterslide from Parkside. Have to admit my preference is waterslide (because you can more easily adjust after application) but I can deal with pressfix too. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike hughes Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 With the pressfix, you carefully cut through the part where the transfer and lift it off is (i use the knife blade to help lift it off) but leave the back still attached to the rest of the transfer sheet. It’ll take a bit of practice to know how much pressure to use on the knife Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 Hello All Finally finished my 21 ton Parkside kit, just needs some flat coat and weathering. Yes the pressfit transfers are a bit of a to work with but somehow got them on after a couple failed attempts. Now I just received over the weekend another Parkside/Peco open wagon. This one has water slide decals but had the black background as a pressfit. Am attaching a couple of pictures. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 Didn’t take so here are the photos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwr Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 I don't bother with the black panel transfer. I use a fine black permanent marker to draw the square and fit the transfers on top. A oat of matt or satin varnish seals it all in Paul R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 I guess my thing with the black background was to get it the same size as the transfer. But some seeing photos of other models and the real thing I guess close enough is good? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwr Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 works for me! Paul R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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