Thunderforge Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 (edited) Not sure if this is the right place for this question, but I’ll ask here anyway. If I wanted to make my own axles for 7mm wagons, what angle is best to cut the ends to? If they were going into Peco brass bearings? All help appreciated!! Edited April 16, 2018 by Thunderforge Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Happy Hippo Posted April 16, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 16, 2018 Assuming the bearing has a conical hole of 45 degrees, then you'd need to turn the ends of the axles at about 60 degrees or a little less. However, remember that your cutting will have to be spot on to match the axle length between the bearings. When I make my own axles, I tend to make them 'proper' with shoulders set to the back to back, and a further shoulder for the part of the axle which fits into the bearing; the bearing being drilled through and cleaned out with a parallel reamer. It's far less difficult than trying to get a good taper cut on a bit of mild steel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderforge Posted April 16, 2018 Author Share Posted April 16, 2018 Thank you Happy Hippo. I’m new to all this so not quite sure what you mean in the third para. Back to back is the gap between the inside of the wheels, so the wheels would slide on and butt up to those shoulders, I’ve got that bit. But I can’t quite work out how the shoulders on the bearing ends would look. Are they angled at all? Also I assume steel is better to use for an axle than brass? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John ks Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Thunderforge I think this is what Happy Hippo is trying to say Cross-section of wheels(black), axle (grey) & bearing(brown) No insulators are shown on the axle The shoulders at the bearing are to control side play John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Not entirely relevant to your question but I am changing out the steel wheels and axles in my Peco 0-16.5 coach and wagon kits to brass axles and non-magnetic (Hornby) wheels. This is because they are attracted to my under-track magnets for the Kadee couplers. The brass pin-point axles however are running in the nylon coned bearings as supplied with the kits. It would not really be good engineering practise to run brass in brass but unless you run it all day may not matter with a little lube..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderforge Posted April 17, 2018 Author Share Posted April 17, 2018 Thanks John Ks, that's helped a lot :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Not entirely relevant to your question but I am changing out the steel wheels and axles in my Peco 0-16.5 coach and wagon kits to brass axles and non-magnetic (Hornby) wheels. This is because they are attracted to my under-track magnets for the Kadee couplers. The brass pin-point axles however are running in the nylon coned bearings as supplied with the kits. It would not really be good engineering practise to run brass in brass but unless you run it all day may not matter with a little lube..... Way off topic but which wheels are attracted by kadee magnets? I see a solution for coaches rolling away on my none too level layout if I use some nice steel wheels and strong magnets Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderforge Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 I've got Peco RO-1s, I'll wave a magnet over them and let you know! :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 I think most of the aftermarket wheels, ie Gibson and others, and the wheels that come with the Peco O-16.5 kits, have steel wheel rims and axles. I buy the Hornby OO spoked wagon wheels. The wheels are non-magnetic but are mounted on steel axles. The axles alone are enough to influence a four wheeled coach or wagon, hence the need to fit brass axles. Try your existing vehicles with magnets before you go to the trouble of changing wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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