Axle end angle?

[Thunderforge]

Not sure if this is the right place for this question, but I’ll ask here anyway.

If I wanted to make my own axles for 7mm wagons, what angle is best to cut the ends to?

If they were going into Peco brass bearings?

 

All help appreciated!!

Edited April 16, 2018 by Thunderforge

[Happy Hippo]

Assuming the bearing has a conical hole of 45 degrees, then you'd need to turn the ends of the axles at about 60 degrees or a little less.

 

However, remember that your cutting will have to be spot on to match the axle length between the bearings.

 

When I make my own axles, I tend to make them 'proper' with shoulders set to the back to back, and a further shoulder for the part of the axle which fits into the bearing;  the bearing being drilled through and cleaned out with a parallel reamer.

 

It's far less difficult than trying to get a good taper cut on a bit of mild steel.

[Thunderforge]

Thank you Happy Hippo.

I’m new to all this so not quite sure what you mean in the third para.

Back to back is the gap between the inside of the wheels, so the wheels would slide on and butt up to those shoulders, I’ve got that bit. But I can’t quite work out how the shoulders on the bearing ends would look. Are they angled at all?

 

Also I assume steel is better to use for an axle than brass?

[John ks]

Thunderforge

 

I​​ think this is what Happy Hippo is trying to say

Cross-section of wheels(black), axle (grey) & bearing(brown)

No insulators are shown on the axle

 

The shoulders at the bearing are to control side play

 

 

John

 

 

[Jeff Smith]

Not entirely relevant to your question but I am changing out the steel wheels and axles in my Peco 0-16.5 coach and wagon kits to brass axles and non-magnetic (Hornby) wheels. This is because they are attracted to my under-track magnets for the Kadee couplers. The brass pin-point axles however are running in the nylon coned bearings as supplied with the kits. It would not really be good engineering practise to run brass in brass but unless you run it all day may not matter with a little lube.....

[Thunderforge]

Thanks John Ks, that's helped a lot :-)

[DCB]

Not entirely relevant to your question but I am changing out the steel wheels and axles in my Peco 0-16.5 coach and wagon kits to brass axles and non-magnetic (Hornby) wheels. This is because they are attracted to my under-track magnets for the Kadee couplers. The brass pin-point axles however are running in the nylon coned bearings as supplied with the kits. It would not really be good engineering practise to run brass in brass but unless you run it all day may not matter with a little lube.....

Way off topic but which wheels are attracted by kadee magnets?   I see a solution for coaches rolling away on my none too level layout if I use some nice steel wheels and strong magnets

[Thunderforge]

I've got Peco RO-1s, I'll wave a magnet over them and let you know! :-)

[Jeff Smith]

I think most of the aftermarket wheels, ie Gibson and others, and the wheels that come with the Peco O-16.5 kits, have steel wheel rims and axles. I buy the Hornby OO spoked wagon wheels. The wheels are non-magnetic but are mounted on steel axles. The axles alone are enough to influence a four wheeled coach or wagon, hence the need to fit brass axles. Try your existing vehicles with magnets before you go to the trouble of changing wheels.