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Soldering Track at Baseboard Joints


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I am about to start soldering my track work to copper clad sleepers at my baseboard joints and am using a flux paste. What is the best way of removing the residue that remains and oxidises - damp cloth, nail polish remover or something g else?

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There shouldn't be any need to use flux paste if your rail and copper clad are well cleaned (burnished first), and use a 60/40 multicored solder as used in electronic circuit production which leaves a minimum of flux residue which is easily cleaned off with a drop of IPA (isopropanol alcohol). If you are using flux paste then a spot of water, nailbrush and damp cloth will work but it may be difficult to remove all traces.

Mike

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As cpman46 says, spot of water, damp cloth and a brush, but I use an old toothbrush.  I find I have to use flux despite using resin cored solder but my solder is 30 odd years old and I have to do a lot of fiddling, raising, adjusting and packing gaps with solder to get the tracks to align and then the damn things move as I wait for the solder to solidify.  Still only needs doing every spring and autumn as the temperature changes makes the rails and baseboards expand at different rates...

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I find long small diameter brass screws screwed deeply into the baseboard framing,  not just the top, a better bet to solder track to. I have some copper clad but it tends to de laminate with age and knocks. 

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I am about to start soldering my track work to copper clad sleepers at my baseboard joints and am using a flux paste. What is the best way of removing the residue that remains and oxidises - damp cloth, nail polish remover or something g else?

CIF or Mr Muscle. Work with an old tooth brush and follow up with toothbrush in washing up liquid plus water.

Should then wipe off with a cloth.

I agree with the thin brass screw suggestion. Much easier to disguise in the ballast and can also be@ hidden inside a sleeper for visual continuity.

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