RMweb Gold imt Posted August 14, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 14, 2018 This should have been straightforward since this is a DCC ready model. BUT ..... having "run it in" on a roundy roundy test track for a few hours I proceeded to cut off the suppressors - and made a mistake. There were three of them very clumsily (my excuse) soldered with large globules of solder. I managed to cut something I didn't mean to cut! I have given myself a stern talking to and taken two pieces of my own advice: 1) don't panic, 2) do nothing until somebody else has looked at the problem. Attached is a photograph. The problem is the piece of wire I have pulled out to the right and removed the insulation from. It looked much as the wire to the left. I think is came from the brass fitting at the bottom of the picture. The wire appears to be brown, but the other is orange so I think this is what I have seen in the past as a grey wire and is a motor power feed. I believe - unless somebody knows better - that I need to extend the wire and solder it to the brass upstanding piece and properly insulate the base wire lest it touch what seems to be the metal of the motor. Advice please. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil S Posted August 15, 2018 Share Posted August 15, 2018 (edited) Do you have a multimeter? ? (If not; why not?...it can cost less than a single silent decoder) If so, use it to confirm your identification of each path. This includes passing through any wound wire component ....but any capacitors will be across...from one path to another. The motor will show a resistance of about 20ohms or so. The green bodied components are the inductors but the capacitors soldered to the motor can (often 3 with one hidden beneath) be removed. Edited August 15, 2018 by Phil S Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BromsMods Posted August 15, 2018 Share Posted August 15, 2018 Do the photos at https://clarahost.clara.net/www.bromsgrovemodels.co.uk/bachmanncl03dccinstr.htm help? There is a photo of the connections as made before any DCC installation. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold imt Posted August 15, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 15, 2018 Do you have a multimeter? ? (If not; why not?...it can cost less than a single silent decoder) If so, use it to confirm your identification of each path. This includes passing through any wound wire component ....but any capacitors will be across...from one path to another. The motor will show a resistance of about 20ohms or so. The green bodied components are the inductors but the capacitors soldered to the motor can (often 3 with one hidden beneath) be removed. Thanks for taking the time - but I don't quite understand. The wire is detached - caused by my cutting off the capacitors (carelessly?) so I need to know where to solder the wire back on. Will a multimeter help (yes I have one) - further instruction appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold imt Posted August 15, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 15, 2018 Do the photos at https://clarahost.clara.net/www.bromsgrovemodels.co.uk/bachmanncl03dccinstr.htm help? There is a photo of the connections as made before any DCC installation. Thanks for taking the time. I had looked at your wonderful pages both before and after my stupidity. Its the wire nearest on the bottom photo - but the orange caps have been cut off - detaching that wire in the process. I need to know what to attach it to. Any ideas? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted August 15, 2018 Share Posted August 15, 2018 (edited) This should have been straightforward since this is a DCC ready model. BUT ..... having "run it in" on a roundy roundy test track for a few hours I proceeded to cut off the suppressors - and made a mistake. There were three of them very clumsily (my excuse) soldered with large globules of solder. I managed to cut something I didn't mean to cut! I have given myself a stern talking to and taken two pieces of my own advice: 1) don't panic, 2) do nothing until somebody else has looked at the problem. Attached is a photograph. The problem is the piece of wire I have pulled out to the right and removed the insulation from. It looked much as the wire to the left. I think is came from the brass fitting at the bottom of the picture. The wire appears to be brown, but the other is orange so I think this is what I have seen in the past as a grey wire and is a motor power feed. I believe - unless somebody knows better - that I need to extend the wire and solder it to the brass upstanding piece and properly insulate the base wire lest it touch what seems to be the metal of the motor. Advice please. Referring to the pre-DCC installation photos here https://clarahost.cl...l03dccinstr.htm firstly re- fit the black insulation sleeve over the loose leg and then solder it's end to the top brass (upstanding) motor brush tag Edited August 15, 2018 by tractor_37260 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold imt Posted August 15, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 15, 2018 Referring to the pre-DCC installation photos here https://clarahost.cl...l03dccinstr.htm firstly re- fit the black insulation sleeve over the loose leg and then solder it's end to the top brass (upstanding) motor brush tag Thank you. I'll need to extend the wire a bit and I have some shrink tubing to go on it afterwards - but BEFORE I solder it onto the brass bit! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted August 15, 2018 Share Posted August 15, 2018 Thank you. I'll need to extend the wire a bit and I have some shrink tubing to go on it afterwards - but BEFORE I solder it onto the brass bit! No need to extend it, it should reach the brass brush solder tag as is................. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold imt Posted August 16, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 16, 2018 Thanks to all those who helped me. I today extended the motor feed wire which had not just been cut but cut short, re-insulated it and soldered it back to the motor as advised above. Having tested that it still worked on DC, I then fitted a DCC-Concepts 6 pin Zen in the socket and a TCS KA4 in the cab. I needed to remove the other "seat" in the cab - but then the 14mm cube fitted in easily. Goes beautifully with its short wheelbase over all my complex point work (next time I MUST lay it all better!) and runs for 10 secs. after power is removed. You MUST remember to bring it to a halt before switching the booster off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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