Bachmann Standard 4 Tank (32-882) - Noisy Runner

[Right Away]

My Bachmann BR Std 4 Tank No 80092 (32-882) which is just over a year old has never been the quietest of engines.

 

Fitted with a Lenz Silver decoder, its performance is exemplary from ultra slow running to getting into speed in both directions. But it sounds as if it's struggling (which it isn't) with a graunchy grinding noise.

It's Fairburn stablemate, fitted with the same decoder and having the same CV values is nowhere near as noisy.

 

I would have thought it would have been run-in by now albeit on an end to end railway.

 

Any thoughts, before the tools come out.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

I would suggest as most likely some lack of free movement in the gear train. Could still be lumpy or hardened grease present, or a gear that is slightly tight, typically because a boss is overwidth for the location.. Worth testing the motor, popped out of the cradle so not engaging the gear train, just in case. Since the loco runs well that's an unlikely source of this noise.

 

If you can get access to a continuous run for a couple of hours, it would be worth first trying a little light oil fed in at the top of the gear train, and then leave it running, alternating forward and reverse every half hour. Very simple fix potentially, if it is only some hardened grease needing dispersal.

[Right Away]

Thank you for that.

 

There was a some gunk - er grease on the pinions which I've managed to remove and replace with a minute drop of Fleischmann oil. No change.

 

I'm with you on the intensive running-in which I'll have to arrange. Probably buy a few lengths of used track to form a continuous loop. Indeed it's always recommended but so far I've got away without doing do - had to happen sooner or later.

[DCB]

Bachmanns do need running in. I have a continuous run but if I didn't I would get a circle or 3rd or 4th radius set track,mount it on a board, ply preferably, and cut round the outside with a Jig saw to produce a disc and then cut away the inside to leave a centre boss and four "Spokes"  you can  then add strengthening (or not if its 12 mm ply) and hang it on a wall when not in use.  I always run Bachmann locos in for 15 minutes forward clockwise, 15 minutes back anticlockwise, then 15 forward anticlockwise and 15 back clockwise and have had few problems.

 

The wheels did fall off a brand new unused Manor within 10 minutes but thats good as one can send it back before spending 10 minutes with spray adhesive and the contents of the dustpan "Weasthering" it of cutting the wires to fit a fancy decoder.

 

Our Bachmann 4MT 2-64T runs beautifully. Almost as nice as the 1959 Hornby Dublo version which would / will pull the Bachmann backwards with contemptuous ease, but who wants a 2-6-4T which can haul 36 coaches anyway?

Edited August 29, 2018 by DavidCBroad

[Sir TophamHatt]

You could look at a rolling road too.

Expensive yes, but I'm glad I spend the dosh and got my (DCC Concepts) one.

Been much easier for this sort of thing and other testing.

[Right Away]

I've now run-in the engine as advised above (forwards and backwards, clockwise and anti-clockwise on a circle of track.

She's a little quieter but not much.

I notice there is some fore and aft play in the motor shaft (0.5mm approx) and wondered if this could account for the noise.

[Right Away]

Final update:

Bit more running in today and she is definitely quieter although could be better; the running qualities are still as smooth as ever, so I'm content with that.

 

Upside of all this was that with the body off I could knock back the lustre of the paintwork with the airbrush whilst the chassis was happily doing circles on the test track; my earlier effort to render the engine as "almost ex-works" had not been quite enough.

 

Thanks again all for your help.

[Guest Mancunian]

As long as all the moving parts are lubricated/greased correctly then just run the loco'...it should become quieter.    Bachmann, in comparison to Hornby, do tend to need more running-in.   Have you checked the back to back and/or do the wheels look buckled/wobbly..??    I have had some models which have required as much as fifteen hours running and that includes some recent Hornby!    If you suspect the wheels then you will probably notice a zagga-zagga-zagga-zagga sound which increases as you increase the speed and decreases as you slow it down.    Make sure there is sufficient tension in the pick-ups...floppy pick-ups are neither use nor ornament!!  

Edited September 3, 2018 by Mancunian

[Mookie]

On 03/09/2018 at 10:48, Mancunian said:

As long as all the moving parts are lubricated/greased correctly then just run the loco'...it should become quieter.    Bachmann, in comparison to Hornby, do tend to need more running-in.   Have you checked the back to back and/or do the wheels look buckled/wobbly..??    I have had some models which have required as much as fifteen hours running and that includes some recent Hornby!    If you suspect the wheels then you will probably notice a zagga-zagga-zagga-zagga sound which increases as you increase the speed and decreases as you slow it down.    Make sure there is sufficient tension in the pick-ups...floppy pick-ups are neither use nor ornament!!  

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Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie

[Butler Henderson]

I had problems with one having a bouncing motion which I traced to the speedo link - a simple cut through the pin holding the speedo parts together solved the problem and provided the parts are aligned correctly you cannot tell they are not physically joined - not the same issue obviously but its might be worth trying it with the speedo disconnected to see is that is the source of the noise.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

 My Fairburn had a wobbly middle driving wheel. Would a back to back gauge solve the problem?...

Not necessarily, there are several potential causes of what mainfests as a wheel wobble, and some (wheel centre eccentric to axle centre, coupling rod length incorrect, bent crankpin, bearing slack, deformation of tyre or rail face of flange) are independent of gauging as estimated by back to back.

 

If on the other hand you can see with the wheelset out of the mechanism that a wheel face is not perpendicular to the axle, then the gauge may help you achieve a better setting. But most modern RTR wheelsets are not too good being adjusted, as the wheelseat is often left permanently weakened by the movement. Your next option is a spare wheelset from Bachmann service. (Assuming there that the model is already out of warranty: if not, hotfoot to retailer...)

[Mookie]

On 14/10/2018 at 18:58, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

Not necessarily, there are several potential causes of what mainfests as a wheel wobble, and some (wheel centre eccentric to axle centre, coupling rod length incorrect, bent crankpin, bearing slack, deformation of tyre or rail face of flange) are independent of gauging as estimated by back to back.

 

If on the other hand you can see with the wheelset out of the mechanism that a wheel face is not perpendicular to the axle, then the gauge may help you achieve a better setting. But most modern RTR wheelsets are not too good being adjusted, as the wheelseat is often left permanently weakened by the movement. Your next option is a spare wheelset from Bachmann service. (Assuming there that the model is already out of warranty: if not, hotfoot to retailer...)

 

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Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie