Rojas' EM bits and bobs

[37Oban]

Hi,

 

I'm back again!

 

firstly, thanks for all the kind comments.  It hasn't been easy at times, but I've found there are solutions to most problems, sometimes in unexpected places!  Also, I do things at my own pace.  Call it mojo or whatever, if I feel like modelling I model and if I don't I don't!  The only deadline I have is in my head, and it can be a bit flexible!

 

Right, back to modelling!  I haven't been idle this past week.  In fact there has been quite a bit of cutting out and sticking, but not enough to show until now.  I now have the body shells for the original Blue Train, 2 DTOS's and a MBSO.

 

It may sound like it was simple, but I found I had made an error, which accounted for a problem I experienced with the ends of the 2 previous MBSO's, namely, the sides were 2mm too deep.  This only became apparent when I checked a cab moulding against the end of a MBSO!  Oops!  It was a simple matter to remove 2mm from the sides that I'd yet to assemble, but what about the 2 previous MBSO'S?  In the end I decided to leave them alone rather than struggle trying to make a neat edge.

 

 

The MBSO is only resting on a coach underframe so I could photograph it, whilst the DTSO's have their sides fixed to the underframe.  There is still a lot of work to be done, not least modifying the cab windscreen and finding suitable curved glazing, of which I've got an idea or two, but I'm getting there!

 

I've also decided to slightly modify one of the other sets too.  I believe unit 045 ran for awhile with Peter's external sliding doors before being converted back to match the rest of the class so I'm modelling this, even though it is outside my time frame.  Rule 1 applies!

 

The doors will be colour-matched and weathered using coloured pencils.

 

I was also hoping to start wiring my wee N gauge terminus.  Guess who couldn't find his wire strippers?  

 

Roja

 

 

Edited June 30, 2019 by 37Oban
remove partial misplaced sentence

[Clive Mortimore]

Hi Roja

 

When (if ever) I get round to glazing the units I have that need curved windscreen I an thinking of using vacuum formed packaging. The type found with cardboard backing and the item inside. I plan to nip along to the nearest pound shop and buy what looks like it has a suitable curve, a few of these for a less than a fiver, plus if the item is of any use what a bonus.

[37Oban]

1 hour ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Hi Roja

 

When (if ever) I get round to glazing the units I have that need curved windscreen I an thinking of using vacuum formed packaging. The type found with cardboard backing and the item inside. I plan to nip along to the nearest pound shop and buy what looks like it has a suitable curve, a few of these for a less than a fiver, plus if the item is of any use what a bonus.

Hi Clive,

 

I've got some vacuum form food packaging.  Can't remember what was in it but it was probably delicious!

 

Roja

[37Oban]

Well, it's been a couple of weeks since I last posted.  For the first week I had my youngest daughter staying with me as a "punishment" by mother!  Don't ask how that works because we get on like a house on fire, but for the duration of her stay my modelling table was turned into an art workshop as she prepared items for a craft sale.

 

During the second week I've been flitting from one thing to another, including a wee bit of modelling!  Some Tri-and wagongs, including  a teirwag, have been converted to EM and repainted, and the wires from the point crossings to a hex juicer soldered on my N gauge layout, but those are threads for another time and place!

 

There has been some progress on the original blue 303.  The bogies have been fitted, but not until after a bit of cursing!  I really could have used two hands, and I nearly gave up and ordered a set from DC Kits, which I still might do for one of the others, but I struggled on,  The easy bit was folding down one side frame and gluing a couple of triangular pieces of card in place to keep it square.  Once this was dry the second side was folded down and two more pieces glued in whilst holding the wheels in place and keeping it square so they ran true whilst they dried!  Once they had dried I then added the two end cross pieces, which helped strengthen the bogies.

 

They were then attached to the chassis using 6BA bolts.  A 6BA washer was glued either side of the central pivot hole to act as bearing and to help wear of the hole.  The bolt was then passed through from underneath and the bogie attached to the chassis with the bolt passing through bushed hole and screwed into the fixed nut.  Simple and effective.

 

 

The observant of you will have noticed the missing saloon sides!   Every time I looked at the bodies of the dtso's something was nagging me, and it took me a while to twig what it was, and when I did it was so obvious, especially to anyone who knew the units, that I just had to change it:  I'd fitted the pieces the wrong way round, meaning the wider section where the sliding door was recessed when open was at the wrong end!

Fortunately it only took a few minutes work with a scalpel to remove the offending pieces and tidy up before printing off new ones, fitting the glazing and inner piece then gluing them in place, this time making sure they were correct.  

 

You can see the difference here,  Th lower one is correct.

 

So that's all I've been up to, apart from researching Scottish railway buildings for my EM project, and joining the EM Gauge society.  Next on the list is to fit seats and get the cabs painted.  that'll be fun!

 

Roja

[37Oban]

Hi everyone,

 

didn't realise it has been quite a while since I lasted posted anything.  I have done a bit, honest, so will update progress soon.  But maybe not for another day or two.  this arrived today!

 

 

I may have to revisit my Hornby 29 conversion, ot at least renumber it!

 

Roja

[37Oban]

Hi eveyone.

 

Well, it's been a wee while since I last posted anything.  A lack of mojo, a health issue then Christmas conspired to stop any modelling getting done, but then the New Year approached and the mojo came back with a vengeance, but not without a problem or two, which I will return to at a later date.

 

So, what have I been up to?  Quite a bit, as it happens.  I've done some work on a test N gauge layout, but not very much, being distracted by my foray into EM.  Hopefully, I'll have progress  to report on both layouts in the future, but for now I'm concentrating on EM rolling stock.

 

In my earlier posts I was building a 3-axle tank wagon for the Scottish Cable Company.  I had nearly completed it when modelling ceased, and in a way, I'm glad it did.  the model ran well, but not as well as it could, and during the layoff a problem arose regarding the tank barrel wrapper.  To put it mildly, exposure to the ultraviolet spectrum in sunlight caused the ink used to fade to a dirty purple colour, and patch painting started to lift the ink too.  Guess who hadn't used a fixative?  Doh!

 

So in January a start was made on rebuilding the model.  What I have now is mk 3!  The wrapper was removed, reprinted, sprayed and replaced but the running issue still remained.  Enter mk3!  The original chassis was replaced by a Lima chassis.  To fit EM wheels the width of the chassis was increased by 4mm, bearings fitted, the wheels test fitted then removed to allow the rest of the work.  The centre axle has 1mm of sideplay and a little vertical movement.

 

I found a way to be able to print both sides of the wrapper in one piece.  It was printed onto matt photo-paper, sprayed with fixative the glued to the tank barrel, then this was glued to the chassis.  Various wooden fittings were made from balsa wood, straps from microstrip and new buffer beams from plastic sheet.  NB 4-bolt buffers were fitted and the filler cap from the scapbox along with the ladder.  Tie rods are 0.5mm nickel-silver rod.  It was painted using weathered black.  The wheels were refitted an it was pushed, very gently as it is so free running, through a 36" radius curve which it negotiated with no problems.  All it needs now is the couplings fitting.  A job for another day.

 

The second wagon is a bit of a whimsy!  I used to have a Norstand wagon many years ago an when I saw this on a secondhand stall at a show.  It has had it's chass replaced by a Parkside 12' wb chassis.  A white stripe was hand painted to indicate the end door then it was weathered.  Couplings to be fitted.  Actually, couplings need to be fitted to all my models.  I'll be using S&W.  Be a good weekend or twos' work sometime in the future!

 

 

 

[37Oban]

Hi, 

 

nothings for months then 2 posts in one evening!  Don't get used to it, it wont last!

 

Before i go any further I feel I must make something clear.  I model to please myself, and that doesn't necessarily mean that every nut and bolt etc is going to be modelled.  My modelling is more like being an artist who paints a tree: they don't paint every leaf or twig yet we know it's tree.  Likewise I don't model all the details, such as brake linkages, below the underframe, and if you can't see it from a couple of feet away it's not going on!  Likewise with transfers.  Unless the lettering is really large, like NORSTAND in the previous post, or is going on clean coaching stock, in which case I use transfers, then all my lettering is done using a fine brush, or even a fine-pointed cocktail stick, and is usually just a series of squiggles.  When weathered it is very effective.  And also cheap!

 

Back to the models! the first is a Cambrian kit 16t mineral wagon, built pretty much to the instructions.  It went together fairly well, with no issues, although I did, as is my usual practise, fix one solebar and 'w' irons to the floor then left to dry before fixing the second one.  

 

The second model for now is not a Shark but an Oyster!  This started life life as a Cambrian Shark kit.  The verandah sides were shortened and a corresponding section added to the cabin sides, then built as per the instructions before painting and weathering.

 

That's it for tonight, heading to Newark Showground tomorrow for the Lincoln show.

 

Roja

[37Oban]

Hi one and all,

 

it's been one of those weeks, but some modelling has taken place.

 

Now for the continuing saga of the cl303 emu's!  

 

A few weeks ago I experienced a quite serious problem of my own making.  Guess who didn't seal the printed sides of his models with fixative?  I thought I would give them a light coat of carnish to help protect the sides, which I duly did.  After only a few minutes, disaster: the varnish lifted the ink from the card, leaving it all blotchy!  Doh!  After a failed attempt at remedial work the only choice I had was to bite the bullet and start again.  At least it was only the sides!  And in a stange way it proved a blessing in disguise!

 

As before, the sides were printed onto 0.5mm card and glazed with 140micron acetate sheet, but unlike before, I haven't added any strengthening card on the inside as it was not felt necessary and made construction easier, and the fitting of the chassis a doddle, with no need to glue the bodies in place, the springyness of the card being sufficient to do the job.

 

The handrails and jumper leads/brake hoses are nickel-silver rod, the buffers are cl31 sprung from Peter's Spares.

Underframe boxes are 0.5mm card around balsa wood cores.  The roof was painted diesel roof blur-grey and quickly weathered and dry brushed using a leather acrylic paint.

 

There are still quite a few things to do, namely fit the sliding light frames to the windows, door activation buttons and jumper sockets to the body ends, but I'm getting there..  After that there's the mbso to build, and once that's done two more 303's, but before I do them I shall take a little detour via a scratch-built 2-car dmu!  But before I do that, a little bit of light (no pun intended) reading!

  

Should keep me quiet, and possibly confused, for an hour or two!

 

Roja

[Clive Mortimore]

I borrowed the Simon's signalling book from our local library (well done Louth Library). I enjoyed reading it, the info was a little too modern for my train set. 

[37Oban]

41 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:

I borrowed the Simon's signalling book from our local library (well done Louth Library). I enjoyed reading it, the info was a little too modern for my train set. 

Hi Clive,

 

I'm looking forward to reading it.  My proposed EM layout is based in Glasgow 1964-72, and will be very simple to signal, but you never know, maybe, one day I shall have the space, and money, for my magnum opus, in which case it will be very useful!  

 

I'll be able to impress my brother too!

 

Roja

 

 

[37Oban]

Hi all,

 

well the book proved worth the money!  I didn't get as confused as I thought I would, but i could do with reading it a couple of times more just to clear up a few points.

 

As a break from the 303's I've started a dmu, just for a change!

 

Printed onto 165gsm/0.5mm card, sprayed with fixative (I remembered!), given a coat of acrylic matt varnish then glazed with acetate.  I shan't do much more to this, apart from fit door hinges until I get some etched door handles and grab rails.  One wee problem, which I have an idea about, is the sharp curve at the base of the sides.  It's not quite a tumblehome as most would recognise it, but once you know it's there it's very obvious, especially seen head-on.  Cabs are going to modified Derby lightweight mouldings.

 

As to what it is, I'll leave it for Clive to tell you!

 

Roja

[37Oban]

Hi,

 

had a qiet week, modelling-wise, byr fulfilling nonetheless.  The 303 now has sliing lights fitted to the windows.  These are printed on 0.5 mm (165gsm) , fixed, cut out the fixed in place with Glue & Glaze.  They still need a wee bit of tidying up, but they look okay.

 

Now for the dmu.  No prizes for knowing it's a Gloucester RC&W Cl 100.  The curve at the base of the sides gave me pause for thought, but the solution was simple. My first thought was to curve the the base around some plastic rod or tube, but a quick look at my supplies revealed I had hardly any in stock, and, in the spirit of keeping it cheap, I looked for an alternative.  After a brief rummage, and I came across a pack of wooden barbecue skewers  which I'd bought to use on my now defunct N gauge layout.  A quick check an they proved to have a near-enough radius to make the curve once glued into position.

 

However, it wasn't to be as simple as just trimming the ends of the skewers and gluing in place.  Being wood, an cheap, most of them have sections the are slightly curved, which is no use whatsover.  I selected some that had the shortest sections of curvature then cut the srtaight parts out.  The base of the sides were then carefully pre-curved between my finger and thumb, then sections of the skewers glued into place, held together for a moment or two to allow the glue to grab then left to dry.  

 

Be a bit of a pause now while as I need to get s few bits and pieces to continue the 100.  Then again, I still have the 303 mbso to complete, then two complete 303's to do, so I shall be keeping busy!

 

Roja

[37Oban]

Hi everyone,

 

well, I'm back!  Been keeping busy during this lockdown, although to be honest, apart from not being able to go for coffee and my daughter popping around, it hasn't been too much different from my usual days.  I've kept in contact with friends, and a couple of them are starting to suffer being confined to barracks, so I hope things soon get relaxed for them, and others in similar situations, so they can get some relief from four walls.  Finger crossed!

 

So, I haver been doing some modelling, though probably not as much as I could have done!  Some of it has involved dismantling my experimental N gauge layout. the concept of cardboard for the baseboards, with cardboard tubes and wood moulding strtengtheners plus the use of button polish to seal the card, plus going back to wire in tube point operation, was deemed successful.  I have also decided to concentrate on EM so parts that were salvaged, and the majority of the stock, will be sold on at a later date.  I've kept one or two items, for an idea that I've had swirling around in my head for a wee while.  More on that at a later date.

 

One of the jobs I've done is convert the two N gauge stock boxes I had to be able to hold two trays each of 4mm stock, and I bought two more self-assembly boxes fron that auction site so now most of my stock is stored and protected rather than rattling around on shelves.

 

I've started fitting S & W couplings.  Rather than attach the hook paddle with a staple I use the holes in the paddle as a guide and drill holes into the vehicle chassis.  I then glue a length of 0.45 nickel silver rod into the hole with super glue.  When this has cured, the hook is replaced, the legs bent over with a pair of fine-nosed pliers and the ends trimmed.  Fitting them to bogie stock is fun!  I have found that it's best to bend the paddle in half, maybe a fraction more, before fitting, although this can affect the operation of the hook, changing the centre of gravity forwards of the pivioting staple.  To counteract this I am waiting for a supply of lead strip that is used to weigh down plants in an aquarium.  Small pieces of this will be glued to the tail of the paddle and trimmed to give good, free movement. Also, some alterations may need to be made to the bogies too.  It can be fun and games, but worth it!

 

One or two kits have been built and weather, although the first I bought a few weeks ago as ready built.  I got two prestwins cheaply.  They are Dapol models, well made, and were painted in bauxite with no transfers.  I changed the wheels, then attacked them with a brush and acrylics!  As is my usual method, lettering is represented by white dots and streaks , allpied with a cocktail stick or a pin, before weathering.  From what is loosely termed "normal viewing distance" they look okay.

 

 

Second up is a Dapol breakvan.  EM wheels, glazed windows and wire handrials.  Not quite so heavily weathered.

 

Thirdly, a Ratio bogie luggage van.  Thi went together quite well, although the bogies were a bit of a pain!  In the end I left off the brakes as you can't really see them when the bogie is weathered and the van is on the track!  This was a bit of a pain, too, to fit the couplings, and I had to remove part of the front frame of each bogie.  This model is heavily weathered, so much so that you'd be hard pressed to tell what it's livery actually is! (maroon)

 

One side is slightly more heavily weathered than the other.  I have a logical reason (thank you, Mr Spock!) for doing this.  I realised that, in the real world, a lot of stock, be it passenger or freight, locomotives, dmu's emu's etc, only run between point A to point B (or C , D, E etc) without actually turning around.  The same end always faces station A, and the opposite end always faces station B.  Where the vehicles stand along side buildings, under awnings, or alone or alongside other vehicles in sidings, affects where the rain mainly hits the sides, ends and roofs of the vehicle.  It may not be really noticeable, but it is there, only you don't see it because you very rarely get to see both sides of the vehicle.  I am aware that some stock may get turned to face in the oppsite direction, depending on the route, but most stay orientated in one direction until they go for exams or refurbishment. and even then they may stay facing the same.  Anyway, it's something to think about.  The pevailing direction of the weather also affects how buildings and other structures weather too.  Signal posts are always dirtier on one side than the other, irrespective of how close they are to passing trains.   

 

After that diversion, back to models!  I'm also in the process of changing a Dapol signal box into something more Caledonian Railwaylooking with a brick base and added windows.  I'm thinking of fitting an interior, but since the box will be at the back of the layout I'm not sure exactly how much would be seen  from the front?  I shall have to give it more thought.  If I decide to do it, it will be scratchbuilt:  the price of some of the detailing kits nearly made me choke on my coffee when I had a look online!

 

I still have plenty to do.  A Hurst coach kit for a Thompson 59' 6" corridor composite, build a new chassis and re-rig a Triang 6.6t crane, the cl 303's and various dmu's.  Phew!  to help with the coach, an other find other exLNER coaching stock that could be found in and around Glasgow in 1964 I bought this book.

 

I'm not a GWR fan, but this book is mine of information!  I never knew that Gresley designed articulated twins for Glasgow and Edingurgh suburban services.  I may have to push the date of my layout back a couple of years or so!

 

And aftef I bought that I has to get this, because I like breakdown cranes, particularly the smaller types.

 

followed a week later by this, which has details of the Cowans & Sheldon crane modelled by Triang!

 

Should keep me quite for sometime yet!

 

Roja

 

 

 

 

Edited April 28, 2020 by 37Oban
spelling

[37Oban]

Hi,

 

I hope everyone is still well and going too nuts with this lockdown!

 

I still haven't decided whether to detail the inside of my signal cabin.  Tbh I haven't looked at it yet!

 

On the other hand, I have busy with 3 kits that arrived for me last week.  Two are from Parkside:  LMS/BR CCT  and a LNER/BR container wagon.  Nothing much needs saying about them, they build really well, although I do one thing a little different:  I use superglue to attach the solebars.  First one is glued in place, then, when set the second is attached, trapping the wheels and making sure all is square.  You have to work fast, but if I can do it it'll be a doddle for most modellers!

 

The third kit was for a Cambrian GWR Loriot wagon.  Why this when I model Glasgow during the 1960's?  Well,  it's to convert a Triang Cowans & Sheldon hand crane to EM.

 

The actual crane is quite well modelled, apart from the chains, but the chassis is a pain to convert, being a mazak casting and needing more skills and tools that I have, so hence the search for a suitable chassis, the Loriot appearing most suitable.

 

The first thing to do was shorten the bed of the wagon.  Using a razor saw, three panels were removed then the two halves reunited with a strengthening piece added to the underside.  This was left to dry whilst the ends assembled. These went together easily with the addition of some plastic strip strengtheners and a mount for S & W couplings.  The buffer beams were also drilled for the coupling loops also at this time.  After these had dried the end were attached to the middle, everything supported then the whole thing left overnight to set properly.

 

The next thing to do was to add bits and pieces to make the truck look more like the prototype weagon.  I have to stress, this is not a true scale model, more an impression.  Purists will be aghast, but it's a working model, not a museum specimen.  Having said that, it has to look reasonably right, and after I'd added the various bits and left it to dry something was still nagging my mind.  

 

The next day, when I came to look at it I realised what it was, the bed of the wagon was over wide, and once seen I couldn't un-see it so out came the razor saw and the width reduced by nearly 3mm on each side.  Much better, especially with the new side beams.

Still some details to add then some tidying up, then crack on with the crane.

 

Roja

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 4, 2020 by 37Oban
spelling & remove photos

[37Oban]

Oi, what's all this then?  Mysterious photo's appearing out of nowhere!  The "remove photos" didn't work as expected!  Apologies for the 4 extra ones, I shall do better next time.  B- as my old science teacher would remark!

 

Roja

[37Oban]

Hi,

 

well, still modelling during lockdown, although it seems to be in drips and drabs!  Anyway, a wee update.

 

The Cowans and Shedon crane is now finished.  The chains were removed and replaced with 5amp fuse wire and a new hook fashioned from an etch brass coupling with plasticard sides, hanging tansversely to give a prototype appearance.  The whole lot was then painted and weathered.  

 

 

Next up is a conflat with an s-type container from Parkside.  I used the included transfers on this, and the LMS cct intead of paint.  Tbh, when I modelled in N i found attaching transfers such a fiddle that I decided to paint random marks as it was so much quicker and easier, and after a bit of weathering very few people were any the wiser, however I thought that, since the transfers were there, and a resonable size, I'd give it a bash to find myself pleasantly surprised at how easily they went.  Doesn't mean to say I shall do this on every model, though!  Unlike the rest of my models this has been given two coats of gloss varnish, primarily as an experiment for another project.  

 

Next up is a Parkside LMS cct.  In my previous post I said how well these kits go together without any problems.  This one will teach me to say that!  If I'd followed the instructions exactly the body would have been over-size for the chassis.  Not by much, but enough to make fitting the chassis awkward.  Once this had been fettled, the sides painted, the glazing fitted then attention turned to the roof.  At a test fit it just didn't look right, so I looked at a couple of photos, and it wasn't right!  On the prototype the edge of the roof was flush to the sides, on the model they overhung by a good 1.5mm either side.  Out with scalpel and fine files, a wee bit of filler and that was sorted.

 

Another issue was the brakes.I think the use of individual brake fittings can be a weak spot:  If you gab the model a bit roughly, your fingers going under the solebars it's easy to bend or damage them, so to prevent this I drilled a 0.5mm hole just in from the brake's location, superglued a small piece of 0.5mm nickel silver rod into the hole to act as a support and attached the brakes to this as well as the chassis.  Job's a good 'un!

 

By the by, you may have noticed in the background a green object.  This is a scratch-built, or will be when I get it done, cl 100 dmu Driving Trailer.  More on this, and a Cravens cl 105 at a later date.  

 

Roja