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Point Indicator Board Problem


Chris Chewter
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  • RMweb Gold

Because parts of my layout can be difficult to see, I decided to invest in a points indicator board to supply a mimic panel so that I can see which way the points are set.  I've used SEEP PM1 switches, however the output of these already switches the power to the frog, so I decided to invest in a points indicator board to supply the LED's.

 

I purchased a Micro Miniatures board and wired it up as per the attached instructions, and the READY light is lit,  However, try as I might, ALL LED's are on regardless of how any switches are operated.  I can only conclude that I have done something wrong, but I cannot see what.  Any ideas how to fault find the problem, because I'm now thinking that a load of frog juicers and wiring the LED's to the SEEP point is now looking a damn sight easier!!

 

 

post-7653-0-03697900-1537691641.jpg

post-7653-0-03697900-1537691641.jpg

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Hi

You have used non locking sprung to centre Off toggle switches? Often called (On)-Off-(On) where the bracketed (On) can't remain in that position when the switches lever is released - it returns under spring tension to centre Off.

Ensure the power supply for the PI unit is actually 12 volts DC and that positive of that supply is in the left hand terminal.

Next that the CDU output (If a CDU is used) has its positive to the point switches middle tag and the negative of that CDU output goes to all the point motor common return PLUS to the Comm terminal on the PI unit.  (Note the PI will work with common Positive if that is how you've wired the switches and motors rather than the more conventional common negative to CDU.

Next if that all proves correct and do recheck it before proceeding, I would disconnect all LEDs and their resistors etc from all the terminals and just add one known working LED and its series resistor to one output and Comm 12v. Note it is the longer lead of the LED that has to go to the 12v Comm terminal. The shorter LED lead goes to one end of the series resistor and that resistors other end to the appropriate terminal 1 to 16.   Operate that switch to see if the LED lights or goes out depending on switch position.

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks Brian. I'll give these a go and see if any of these will solve the issue.

 

Regarding the switches, are you saying that the point indicator board cannot be used with non locking centre spring toggles?  (I've also tried the Peco passing contact switches but with no success)

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  • RMweb Gold

After a bit of fiddling, still no joy with the point indicator board. 

 

What I can categorically say that wiring the LED's to the SEEP is a lot easier!  Just temporarily rigged one pair of LED's up with total ease! 1 down, 8 to go.

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Thanks Brian. I'll give these a go and see if any of these will solve the issue.

 

Regarding the switches, are you saying that the point indicator board cannot be used with non locking centre spring toggles?  (I've also tried the Peco passing contact switches but with no success)

Hi

No I haven't said that...

You can not use locking switches, as the CDU will not recharge all the while any switch remains with its contacts closed.   Basically, never use a locking switch with solenoids.

While the CDU helps protect the point motor coil from accidental burn out it should always be used with one of these style of switches - Sprung to centre Off toggle switch, Passing contact point lever (Not the Hornby R044 which doesn't work at all well with a CDU), Press to make non locking push buttons or even Stud and Probe.  

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Have you got the CDU output in correct polarity, whilst it makes no difference to the solenoid coils, it may affect the logic within the MM board, i.e. constant positive instead of a pulsed positive on point selection.

Rob

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A quick final question...What is the 12 volt DC power supply?  Not from a train controller?

If it is, then it may not be good enough to operate the on board electronics? (grasping at straws now!!) But if it is a train controller, I would try a 12v regulated power supply or even as a test a brand new PP3 9 volt battery which may well still operate the electronics??

Edited by Brian
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