simmo009 Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Greetings. I have recently acquired The Talisman Train Pack at a bargain price. The loco is an A3, Sandwich. Hornby service sheet is 284B. First time on track, nothing. Inspection revealed a loose wire to the top drawbar plate. Problem solved I thought. But nothing. I have oiled etc. Just in case it needed it, and spun the motor up with direct power, all is excellent. Also, I checked the wiper contacts and made some small adjustments. Then checked continuity in every way I could think of. What I have noticed is that there is no continuity from the right side main wheel set (viewed from above) to any other part of the loco. I figure there should be something, or why fit pick ups on this side? Everything looks to be in order with respect to the service sheet, so what am I missing? Any thoughts and suggestions welcome. Incidentally, a DCC decoder is fitted, but I am testing on DC at the moment. I don't believe this should be part of the problem, but please correct me if I am wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted October 3, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 3, 2018 Decoder may have its analogue capability turned off. ATB Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 spun the motor up with direct power, all is excellent.... So power isn't reaching the motor is a safe diagnosis. The wiring on all the Hornby A3/A4 mechs I have looked at is the proverbial POS. If there are problems with it rip it all out and wire sensibly is the best move. ... spun the motor up with direct power ... Incidentally, a DCC decoder is fitted, but I am testing on DC at the moment. I don't believe this should be part of the problem, but please correct me if I am wrong. Further to this, if the decoder was in circuit when you powered the motor directly, it may have been damaged.(So at least I have been told, but in my salad days with DCC I tested several DCC fiited locos that were non runners with DC to the brush terminals to verify that the motor was operational, and never had a damaged decoder resulting. But the DCC gurus of the time all recoiled in horror at this technique and told me to never do that again.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simmo009 Posted October 3, 2018 Author Share Posted October 3, 2018 I was thinking that way. The chip was already fitted, no identification on it. Will try and dig out a blanking plug and give it a whizz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simmo009 Posted October 3, 2018 Author Share Posted October 3, 2018 Gilbert, bang on sir, fitted a blanking plug, all sweet as a nut. Going to get a new chip anyway. Does anyone sell blanking plugs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simmo009 Posted October 3, 2018 Author Share Posted October 3, 2018 34, thanks, will bear that in mind in future, but a new chip is going to go in anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salmotrutta Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Before putting in a new chip check the quality fo the wiring on the loco. My NRM Scotsman was put on display as a runner but when I got it out to play it started smoking - fried its chip. The problem was underneath the socket for the chip which had pierced a poorly routed wire. Then my Merchant Navy did the same thing.... Meh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 For DC testing purposes with the decoder removed or simply unplugged, if you don’t have a blanking plate handy just use a couple of bits of wire to bridge the 2 terminals at each end of the socket, i.e 1 to 8 and 4 to 5. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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