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kevo
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Hi just like to ask has any one tried fitting a stay alive  in to a tts sound  08 Hornby   shunter   its a laisdcc, stay a live  with 2 wires blue & black  do they go to the same  blue and black on the decoder  ? any advice please .  kevin 

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Blue wire, probably yes.

 

Black wire on decoder, definitely no, that would risk letting out magic smoke from something.    You will need to find the negative on the decoder after the rectifier - somewhere in the middle of the decoder. 

 

Does it work ?  Anyone's guess. 

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Blue wire, probably yes.

 

Black wire on decoder, definitely no, that would risk letting out magic smoke from something.    You will need to find the negative on the decoder after the rectifier - somewhere in the middle of the decoder. 

 

Does it work ?  Anyone's guess. 

 

There was an article somewhere (Hornby forum?) about adding SA to a Hornby R8249 decoder (which I believe is what the TTS what developed from)

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This is a lot on the Hornby forum about fitting stay alive to both the R8249 and TTS including pictures. Search on there works better if you use less rather than more in your request.

 

Edit: a search on ‘stay alive’ got me 2 pages of results searching in Title and 27 pages if searching in Content.

Make sure you are searching in the forum search box not the site search box.

Rob

Edited by RAFHAAA96
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I have fitted stay-alive to a Hornby TTS decoder in an Bachmann 08. I used an ordinary 2200uF along with the normal diode and resistor. Fitted them in the cab. Made a big difference to the running reliability. I haven't posted any shots but the details of where to attach the wires are here towards the end of this thread. I turned off DC running to ensure it worked.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/124592-some-rtr-rolling-stock-for-all-saints-east/page-2   look at post #32

 

Izzy

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Cheers izzy  that is jus what i was hope ing to find  a pic of were the wires go . i was just about to give up on that . i am not very tech with electrics but i can follow a pic . my next step is to learn how to switch off the DC on the decoder before i start  . my PIKO  controller  dus  not have the the functions to alter  the CV'S  but i have just brought a NCE  cab controll  any luck after a read of the manual  i can sort that out 

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Cheers izzy  that is jus what i was hope ing to find  a pic of were the wires go . i was just about to give up on that . i am not very tech with electrics but i can follow a pic . my next step is to learn how to switch off the DC on the decoder before i start  . my PIKO  controller  dus  not have the the functions to alter  the CV'S  but i have just brought a NCE  cab controll  any luck after a read of the manual  i can sort that out 

 

Just follow the manual, you should be able to alter CVs easily.

 

John

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Big doom and destruction i had a go at installing the lasdcc  stay alive in my tts Hornby o8 and yes it fried it .  that a teach me . and Hornby havent  released the tts o8 sound  for replacement yet . talk about live and learn  :cry: . any way move ing  on i have now replaced the tts  8 pin for a the lasdcc 8 pin with stay alive . i have joined up the the blue and black wires from the decoder  to the blue and black on stay alive  . loco runs nice and smooth  now but the stay alive doint  seem to work like were you pick up the loco and wheels still turn . any advice on were i have gone wrong with this . please  :help:

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Hi Richard  yes you are right there , not one of my better days . and slightly wiser after read ing your reply . i think what i did to day has putt me off DIY  decoder stuff . there is far more to it than i can take in . but thank you for the tips on zimo or locksound  and best left to people in the know like your self . up to this date that is my 3rd tts sound decoder i have wrecked have ing  tried fitting them in to different  locos that were none sound . 

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same thought on that richard i was very glad they were not top notch decoders .  thanks 4 the reply's to my groans . i checked out your web site early on . i will certainly keep you in mind when i need work carried out from now on  

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Stay Alive is of course a trade name as is Keep Alive and others, but used similar to how the generic Hoover is to vacuum cleaner but who cares.

 

The thing to remember is if you have a big enough capacitor bank to make any difference to dodgy running over points then you need some in-rush current control circuitry to go with it.

 

Rob

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I think that it is probably not terribly well understood that unless a very large capacitor storage amount is used then the level of movement produced by a stay-alive is unlikely to be seen, and will also depend on the speed of the loco/current draw of the motor as well as whether sound is also fitted.

 

Recently I have been fitting small packs of tantalum’s, either 3 or 4 220uf (so 660uf/880uf) into some 2mm tank/diesel shunter locos and here movement relative to the speed can be seen. A spoke or so at minimal level up to a whole revolution flat out. A bit like a flywheel effect. With a 4mm Bachman’s 08, now fitted with a Mashima 1833 since the original motor failed, even with an ordinary electrolytic 2200uf being used I can detect no movement at any speed. This has a TTS sound decoder fitted. But I know that the stay-alive is working, because with it the loco runs reliably without stalling or stuttering, where as it was prone to do this before fitting the stay-alive.

 

Most levels of stay-alive are really meant to do just this, keep the decoder/motor alive through tiny periods when power is lost, micro- seconds mostly, but which impact loco performance overall.

 

Izzy

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I suppose you could rig a pseudo decoder circuit just using just your stay alive and charging circuit with an led(s) and resistor as the motor load (say 20mA apiece), charge up your stay alive then see how long the led(s) take(s) to fade out after the power is pulled.

 

Rob

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have ing shared my o8 tts disaster try ing to  fit a stay a live , i made the best out of it by replace ing with a laisdcc 8 pin  none sound decoder  as i had all ready installed  the stay a live in the o8 cab i didnt fancy  pulling it a part  so i wired it in  even if it didnt work  nothing to loose  . well the 80 ran nice and smooth and silent  great i thought  . but later on when it got half way across my one  and only point on my micro layout  it stalled  then jerked forwards and backwards  till i picked up the  loco of the track  not sure what caused that !  some sort of surge may be ?

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As mentioned above, the most important benefit of the 'stay alive' - retained power system is to keep the microprocessor running and not resetting over every brief interruption of incoming power - even without 'stay alive or a large flywheel, most motors motor have enough inertia to cover the momentary loss ... but by the time their loss becomes noticeable, the micro would have been off / restarted several times ..  

     As a 'demonstratable example' - I have made track-voltage monitors from automotive Voltmeter modules  - wit a bridge rectifier in front, and self-powered from the rectifier output ... result is a 3GBP display of track voltage (minus 2 diode drops) .... BUT if I switch ON RAILCOM - the short gap in the signal created fro the response is enough for the display's  processor to reset !!! - the result is a 000 display.    (A capacitor is needed after the bridge rectifier to maintain the power over the Railcom gap, to keep the display processor alive)      Early Sound Decoders used large capacitors and created the inrush problem as the fleet grew - which is where PSX type intelligent breakers help out.

 

The next-most important / desirable feature of a power-retaining system is to stop lights flickering and then enough motor power to move the loco to somewhere where it regains power.....     and truly advanced versions then control where they stop has power.

Obviously when LED as opposed to filament lighting, and Sound are added - the power demands required are that much higher...

 

A mechanical flywheel obviously helps with the motor continuing - and many years ago there was a dynadrive  ?? mechanism which included a clutch.   A coreless motor has less inbuilt inertia - but 'more space' for a flywheel to be added. Worm gear drive might show less inertia than other gearing methods - which might allow the whole weight of the loco to be used to increase the inertia.

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Worm drive is non reversible so if the motor stops the wheels cannot keep it turning.

 

The problem with momentary power loss is the decoder has a switch on voltage that must be reached again before the chip will pass voltage to the motor.

 

A stay alive is designed (in principle) to prevent the motor voltage decaying whilst this restart is happening.

 

Rob

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have ing shared my o8 tts disaster try ing to  fit a stay a live , i made the best out of it by replace ing with a laisdcc 8 pin  none sound decoder  as i had all ready installed  the stay a live in the o8 cab i didnt fancy  pulling it a part  so i wired it in  even if it didnt work  nothing to loose  . well the 80 ran nice and smooth and silent  great i thought  . but later on when it got half way across my one  and only point on my micro layout  it stalled  then jerked forwards and backwards  till i picked up the  loco of the track  not sure what caused that !  some sort of surge may be ?

 

A lot of Lais decoders don't work with stay alive despite saying that they do.

Lais are pirated copies of other decoders.

 

I keep clear of them. (although there are some on here that like them.)

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